Really stupid annoying fever
Moderators: LilRay.Sun, Furai, Growler, zorruno, jif
Cooling system has been flushed out 3 times since january. Once cuz I was bored, once with the thermostat, and again when the new radiator went in.
The gauge was bouncing around the other day. I mean, literally dancing between normal temp and danger time - Now I know a shonky ground would explain that I'll worry less. I'm going to get a whole bunch of contact cleaner onto all available pluggy bits I can and see what happens.
Contact cleaner I can afford and have the time to do, lol.
The gauge was bouncing around the other day. I mean, literally dancing between normal temp and danger time - Now I know a shonky ground would explain that I'll worry less. I'm going to get a whole bunch of contact cleaner onto all available pluggy bits I can and see what happens.
Contact cleaner I can afford and have the time to do, lol.
-
- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
- Posts: 1293
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:35 am
- Location: 36.8167° S, 174.4167° E
-
- I count 5-s in my sleep
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:52 pm
- Location: Hamiltron
-
- I count 5-s in my sleep
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:52 pm
- Location: Hamiltron
So, a basic principle of electric circuits is that you need a complete path from the positive to negative side in order for electric current to flow.
In all modern cars, the negative side of the battery is attached to the metal chassis. This is referred to as the 'ground'. Most circuits will be from the positive side of the battery, through the devices being powered, and then to a ground point somewhere on the chassis or engine.
For the temp gauge, the circuit runs from the positive terminal, through some fuses etc. to the gauge. From the gauge there is a wire that runs to the temperature sensor (the zigzaggy thing), and from the sensor it goes to ground and back to the battery via the engine.
When electricity flows through the gauge, it heats up a little bimetallic strip and moves the needle. The more current flow, the higher the gauge will read.
The temperature sensor is a variable resistor: it makes it hard for electricity to flow when the coolant is cold, but easy when it is hot.
If there is an easier path to ground which will bypass the sensor, then the electricity goes that way, you'll get lots of current flow and the gauge will shoot up to shit-shit-shit.
The problem will likely be somewhere between the gauge and the sensor. It could be the sensor, but I'd check the wiring before spending money on a new sensor.
In all modern cars, the negative side of the battery is attached to the metal chassis. This is referred to as the 'ground'. Most circuits will be from the positive side of the battery, through the devices being powered, and then to a ground point somewhere on the chassis or engine.
For the temp gauge, the circuit runs from the positive terminal, through some fuses etc. to the gauge. From the gauge there is a wire that runs to the temperature sensor (the zigzaggy thing), and from the sensor it goes to ground and back to the battery via the engine.
When electricity flows through the gauge, it heats up a little bimetallic strip and moves the needle. The more current flow, the higher the gauge will read.
The temperature sensor is a variable resistor: it makes it hard for electricity to flow when the coolant is cold, but easy when it is hot.
If there is an easier path to ground which will bypass the sensor, then the electricity goes that way, you'll get lots of current flow and the gauge will shoot up to shit-shit-shit.
The problem will likely be somewhere between the gauge and the sensor. It could be the sensor, but I'd check the wiring before spending money on a new sensor.
-
- I count 5-s in my sleep
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:52 pm
- Location: Hamiltron
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests