Improving the handbrake?

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 4:17 pm

So I have been looking into ways to improve the handbrake as its pretty crummy.

I was thinking the obvious, NA8 or NB Upgrade, Hydraulic, but I'm just thinking could I extend the little levers on the caliper to increase the pull force on them?

You can see them mid right the lever for the handbrake.

Would this work?

marcellarius · Post by **marcellarius** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 4:54 pm

My NA8 handbrake is still pretty crummy. Unlike when I bought the car, it works, and engages without the handle coming up past 60 degrees like some roadsters I've driven.

I had some win from lubing caliper sliders and removing slack from balancer-to-caliper cables. I think they need replacing, they've probably stretched more by now.

I've wondered about extending the lever, but chances are it wouldn't be 'legal'.

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:08 pm

What about new cables? Do you think after 20Years new ones would help. Only thing is they are not cheap.

marcellarius · Post by **marcellarius** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:18 pm

New ones have been on my TODO list, but I'm not sure what a new set would cost, probably couple of hundred.

I'm guessing that half the problem is that as you yank the brake, it's stretching and you aren't getting enough clamping force.

Were you using Greenstuff pads on the rears? I'm using a set of TRWs which don't seem to have the best cold performance which probably doesn't help.

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:20 pm

Im just using Bendix on the rear from memory. Not super pads but not crap. I looked into handbrake specific pads but $200 was a bit much.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:19 pm

the bendix advance for NA6 are HORRIBLE. better off with some cheap crap from supercheap etc.

BRM · Post by **BRM** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:52 pm

I've been wanting to try some shitty pads, like the cheapest silverlines or something on the rear,
Because i'm sure they'll work better from cold,
Rather then Bendex or hawks or some more expensive pad that doenst heat straight away..
and adjust the shit out of the handbrake..

Whats so bad about going hydraulic?

marcellarius · Post by **marcellarius** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:55 pm

Not street legal without an authority card.

MrGrey · Post by **MrGrey** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:22 pm

like the cheapest silverlines

don't

I cheaped out and got silverlines and they lasted about 3 weeks before I said 'F- this' and got some slightly better ones. No need to get super duper racing compound pads for a daily driver but don't go for the cheapest of the cheap. Just spend a few dollars more.

BRM · Post by **BRM** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:26 pm

MrGrey wrote:
like the cheapest silverlines
don't

I cheaped out and got silverlines and they lasted about 3 weeks before I said 'F- this' and got some slightly better ones. No need to get super duper racing compound pads for a daily driver but don't go for the cheapest of the cheap. Just spend a few dollars more.

We're talking about the handbrake.

I'm talking about using shitty silverlines for drift / gymkhana days.
for using the handbrake.

I'm not an idiot.

BRM · Post by **BRM** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:28 pm

marcellarius wrote:Not street legal without an authority card.

I know..

So?...

MrGrey · Post by **MrGrey** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:33 pm

BRM wrote: I'm talking about using shitty silverlines for drift / gymkhana days.
for using the handbrake.

I'm not an idiot.

my mistake, I was just referring to braking in general.

and I am an idiot

BRM · Post by **BRM** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:35 pm

Mmhmm,
Figured.

marcellarius · Post by **marcellarius** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:40 pm

BRM wrote:So?...

... it would be undesirable for a street/dual purpose car if you wanted to get a WOF or cert without fucking around

BRM · Post by **BRM** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:44 pm

Obviously...

So what else are you going to do?

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 10:48 pm

Upgrade to drum

chris · Post by **chris** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 8:41 am

Well I'll be running a hydro shortly as my E-Brake/Handbrake has been pretty ineffective even after tightening.

To do so I will be hiding the cylinder back against the parcel tray with the hand brake mounted accordingly to my hand position.

It will be on a nut and bolt setup so it is removable come wof time.

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:47 am

That's what I would do, surely to get the same performance as hydraulic you would need to upgrade your rear calipers substantially?(expensively?)

Baring in mind of course that if have an accident and your car is inspected and found to have modifications that arnt WOF standard, you run the risk of probably not having your insurance pay out.

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:03 am

So Chris your going to extend the rod going to the cylinder and mount the cylinder ages back? Wont that cause flex in the rod?? Most seem to be right on the cylinder?

I was talking to Luke about it(Chocolate MX5 drifter) and he said even his Hydro is pretty average sometimes so I think calipers need upgrading going by what the forums and that tend to say they are only as good as your caliper setup.

I guess Ill have to keep helping mine with the footbrake for now...

last_resort14 · Post by **last_resort14** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:50 am

I think my hydro isn't amazing due to the cylinder size, or maybe the leverage ratio. It only has maybe 25-30mm throw at the handle. So either a smaller diameter master cylinder or better lever angles would help.
Still easily twice as good as my cables were, and that was after modifying the cable brackets for more leverage.

marcellarius · Post by **marcellarius** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 12:06 pm

I reckon the cost effective and legal gains would have to come from improving the efficiency of the caliper and cable.

The lever and spindle look to be one piece in all the diagrams and pictures I've seen, not sure if you could easily separate them and replace the lever. I don't think moving the cable bracket can have much effect on the leverage unless it was previously pulling it on a weird angle.

Has anyone replaced their handbrake cables? What did it cost, and did it make a noticeable difference?

chris · Post by **chris** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:38 pm

Furai wrote:So Chris your going to extend the rod going to the cylinder and mount the cylinder ages back? Wont that cause flex in the rod?? Most seem to be right on the cylinder?

I was talking to Luke about it(Chocolate MX5 drifter) and he said even his Hydro is pretty average sometimes so I think calipers need upgrading going by what the forums and that tend to say they are only as good as your caliper setup.

I guess Ill have to keep helping mine with the footbrake for now...

Sure am.

And nope, I will be going with a dual rod system or something, I have taken into account the extra flex that will occur.

broomfish · Post by **broomfish** » Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:41 am

Furai wrote:Upgrade to drum

I did this in a lancer 4wd turbo i built for motorkhanas. The mits handbrake is useless for locking up the back wheels, so i removed the rear trailing arms and fitted some from a diesel 4wd drum brake model. What a huge difference.
Makes sense when you compare the surface area of a shoe vs a pad.

Was bolt-on on the lancer, May not be so easy on a mx5 though?

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sun Sep 22, 2013 6:08 pm

runs down to pick a pet to rob a 323 hatch of the drum brakes.... haha

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Sun Sep 22, 2013 11:29 pm

SLYDIT wrote:runs down to pick a pet to rob a 323 hatch of the drum brakes.... haha

Howw did you know

Improving the handbrake?

Improving the handbrake?

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