Advice from car painters please

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:56 pm

I'm thinking of giving SLYDIT a respray early next year. i have a reasonable quality top fed spray gun and a workshop to do it in that we usually paint tanks (and the occasional boat ;0 ).

whats a good process por getting it painted? just looking at a solid 2K finish in the FG Falcon Xr6 red.

Any paint systems that are newb friendly? ive painted stuff like tanks and boat trailers. we have an account at resene auto so thats what i may go with???

plan was to rub down with 250 or 400 grit/primer then 600 grit rub down, ten hit it with 2 or 3 coats of top coat...one side of the car has bee resprayed in clearcoat which is peeling off.
Whats a good way to rub back the lower part of the doors with the stone chip coating on it. I'd like to keep the coatingb but obviously want to key it well (scotchbrite?)
any tips would be great....

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:40 am

I took my stone-chip coating off so don't know whats best there....i have got a sand -blaster so i might try that carefully and from a relevant distance away. Sprsta will know!

For the rest a wet sand and scotch-brite should suffice..[and dont paint if its too cold or too damp. Best of luck!

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:22 am

2K is pretty forgiving
make sure you feather back all of the peeling clear coat, and sand any crazy cracks back to metal otherwise they will come back through the new paint

if you dont have a da sander it may be a good idea to invest in one

you should only need to patch prime the areas that you have either repaired or taken past the clear coat
being 2K itll cover 320 scratches and wouldnt need to go any finer than 400
Scothbrite pad will be fine for the lower textured part of the doors

we use standox here i dont know if its any easier than other systems but its pretty much foolproof, just make sure you follow the mixing ratios and allow the full flash off times for the temperature you are spraying at

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:21 am

And if i remember rightly i had reaction issues with the oils in the stone-chip coating so thats why i ended up removing the coating.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:13 am

The original non repainted stuff is in really good condition. Its just the resprayed part which has clear. Someone suggested hitting it with the steam cleaner to get most of the clear off??
So am I correct in thinking that a full spray in primer is not required and I can just put the top coat straight on the old 2k top coat?

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:29 am

yeah the original 2K will be ok to paint straight over
either steam or a waterblaster or even compressed air will get enough clear off to be able to feather back the edges to where it has stuck properly

it would even be a good idea to steam clean the whole car inc underside before you start to remove contaminants

the cleaner the better

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:30 am

i have found you cant sand and feather the edges of clear-coat so you might have to remove it completely.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:16 pm

We have a DA so what grit should I go for on the da to cut back the clear?

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:42 pm

some 180-220 will be fine, then prime over that

Advice from car painters please

Advice from car painters please

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