HSV MX5

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:19 pm

Righto, firstly my baby is back home. Went down to the Tron on tuesday for work, and just happened to have my transport trailer on the back, so put the car on their and brought her back home, and tucked her all up in her little garage, altogether now - aaawwwww.

So took it out for a quick drive around the block (we live out in the country, so around the block is a 10min drive) boy was that a bad idea, it was late, heavy fog set in, and the lights were pointing up in the sky (have adjusted them now), so couldn't see a thing.

Because of that, had to take her out for another quick blat today, as I needed to take it somewhere to get somethings looked at for getting sorted out. So, after that little run, figured out there is a few things that I am going to have to sort out.

Engine is running rich, but can't get that fixed until my original ECU is sorted out, which leads onto to another couple of problems, first, where am I going to mount the ECU and secondly it stinks in the car, reminds me of my old RX7's on the inside. I figure there most likely isn't a rubber boot sealing around the gear level, but there seems to be a lot of fumes coming in at the moment. Have to drive around with the window down, otherwise get a headache in about 10mins, takes about 30mins with the window down.

Speedo is way off the mark, reads about 60kph when doing about 90. Have a electronic gizmo thing that changes the frequency signal to the dial cluster, will have to play around with that and get it a bit closer to what it is actually doing.

Clutch has very little play in it, and takes up just off the floor, if I didn't know it was a brand new clutch kit, I would say it was about to give up the ghost. Makes for a bit of jerky driving at the moment, taking off, and changing gears.

Suspension needs a lot of playing around. Had a racecar engineer look at it, and he seems to think the coils are too short (there are only about 3 coil arounds from top to bottom) and thinks I need to put longer coils in?

Got a strange knock/rattle coming from under the bonnet when taking off (or trying to take off), but I can't see anything loose under there, apart from the plug for the washer bottle (which seems to have gone walk about) but pretty sure it isn't that.

Something funny about the throttle, and it doesn't idle at cold. Throttle cable seems to be a bit loose, but I don't what it should be like, just a bit hard to get the revs right at initial touch of the throttle (or me being ham fisted).

Steering seems weird, completely vague and over assisted at the moment, I don't know if the power steering rack that was put in there was out of a NA or a NB. Front end seems floaty and light at cruising speed, but I suspect this is more to do with the suspension than the steering.

Heat is a bit excessive, even just cruising along. Engine temp doesn't seem to get up there, and the radiator is bigger than Texas, but under bonnet heat seems a bit warm when lifting it up, and get a lot of heat soak from the transmission tunnel when driving. Cabin gets nice a warm without the heater being on.

Also have a wiring fault somewhere in the dial cluster, as the lights flicker on and off on it at night.

So a few things that I need to get sorted before I take it to the certifier.

Need to put it on a set of scales, to see how many pies it has added on.

But on the plus, the power/torque and noise are all very addictive. Taking off out of a driveway at the moment, it is useless using anything more than half throttle, as all it is going to do it light up the rears. Driving in the wet will be a matter of being very aware of the road. But also at the same time, it can be just an easy cruiser, just using about 1500rpm at open road speeds (well I am guessing that's what I was doing, since the speedo is out of wack, and didn't have the GPS in the car at the time), and it will still lurch forward in 6th gear at that speed with a stab of the throttle.

But really have to fix the fumes coming into the car first, want to be able to drive for more than 10mins in it, and not come out with a headache and my clothes stinky.

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:02 pm

All that's left is to tame the beast

last_resort14 · Post by **last_resort14** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:02 pm

Bout time for a video to be posted up me thinks

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:46 pm

Yes, will try and get a video at some stage, just have to arrange someone to do the footage for me, bit hard to record and drive at the same time.

Let Mad Kiwi have a drive in the car today, he thinks I am a winging old bugger about the gearbox, he likes it, I think he's mad.

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:57 pm

Took the wee beastie down to Mag and Turbo today to get the wheel alignment sorted out, and to get everything checked over on the suspension to make sure it was all nice and tight. They have set the camber up for track work, as I am going to Hamptons on the 14th and Taupo on the 21st. Will put it back to back to normal after those sessions for the cert process.

While I was there, made the mistake of wondering around, and they had a 320mm Momo Course wheel there. Tried to resist the temptation, but I am too weak willed, really going to have to do something with this addiction of mine before I end up in the poor house (sigh)

Had Mad Kiwi come around to have a peek at the car, and got him to drive it while I fiddled around with the speedo adjuster, was reading 60kph and we were doing 80kph originally, now it is pretty much true speed, maybe a reading a couple of k's faster if anything.

Next thing is to try and sort out the fumes coming into the car. Need to get a rubber boot for the trans tunnel as I have no idea where my original one has gone, no one can seem to find it, along with a few other parts that have gone walk about.

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:02 pm

What, stop...don't interupt me.

Can't you see i'm busy researching V8's!

Dammit, I KNEW that would happen

Car is absolutely lovely to drive. Really solid and stable on the road, very drivable. Tons of power if you want it (I didn't rev the crap out of it or drop the clutch but you know if you did it would be a "Oh Shit" moment

)

I already know and appreciate they are a little car but wow, does it feel little as a passenger and it's starting to boogie....very little!

I just remembered your whinging of the power steering too and I think that felt okay (in a good way, unremarkeable / normal...) as well!

Seriously, already researching Toyota v8's!!

EDIT:

Steering seems weird, completely vague and over assisted at the moment

Are you sure this isn't a symptom of the 17" wheels added weight, not to mention the HUGE ass brakes (the wheels and brakes might add to the "feel" )...just a thought...I really didn't notice the steering but might have if I had gotten over the excitement of driving it.....

Thank you very much!

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:25 pm

I suppose, I am just unfairly compairing the steering to what it was before, which didn't have power steer, although it was a bit heavy trying to park with those wheels, once on the move you could tell exactly what was going on and it was nicely weighted. I notice the same thing in my brother NA8C, that the steering feels very light.

Somewhere in the middle would be just right, but I suppose I am just being a bit fussy

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:27 pm

And as for a Toyota V8 in an MX5, I know of one for sale (had a look at it in the weekend for my brother), all certed and road legal, body is pretty rough on it, guy wants $9K

ham · Post by **ham** » Fri Jul 06, 2012 12:51 pm

Donovan wrote:And as for a Toyota V8 in an MX5, I know of one for sale (had a look at it in the weekend for my brother), all certed and road legal, body is pretty rough on it, guy wants $9K

Any contact details

MX4000 · Post by **MX4000** » Fri Jul 06, 2012 5:57 pm

That the white supercharged one?

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Fri Jul 06, 2012 8:21 pm

MX4000 wrote:That the white supercharged one?

No, his mate, just a stock engine, with a link plus.

When you said white supercharged one, the one running NOS as well?

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:40 pm

Donovan wrote:
MX4000 wrote:That the white supercharged one?
No, his mate, just a stock engine, with a link plus.

When you said white supercharged one, the one running NOS as well?

And here I am thinking a V8 in itself is pretty insane... I guess there's always something to get you faster

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 9:02 am

Angreal wrote:And here I am thinking a V8 in itself is pretty insane... I guess there's always something to get you faster

I don't know, sometimes have to draw a bit of a line, when I was getting my wheel alignment, they said that they had a NOS kit that they pulled out of their bosses HSV that I could have for $700. Said no to that one, would be just asking for trouble.

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 3:23 pm

The cheapest way to go faster is still to learn to drive

If I were to go a V8 which would never happen anyway it would have to the Mclaren MP4-12C or a Hayabusa combo V8 like the Atom V8 uses.

But thatll never happen so Quadrotor made of 2 12As is the go

harlansmart · Post by **harlansmart** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 6:04 pm

+1

This is so so so true... fact is most of us can't drive for shit.

Furai wrote:The cheapest way to go faster is still to learn to drive

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:11 pm

Tracked the source of the petrol fumes coming into the cabin, pulled out the centre console part around the gearstick, and there is no rubber boot there, just open to the elements. Can't find it in the box of parts I picked up with the car, so getting a new one from Mazda parts. Now I am just not sure whether it is going to fit, as the gearselector is back about 10mm or so from where the standard on it (when in the netural position, looks like is it in 4th). If it doesn't fit, not really sure what I am going to do, in the mean time, packed in a whole pile of denim around in the gaps, which has seemed to stop most of it getting blown up in there, also the trans tunnel doesn't seem to get overly hot either now, weird.

punkoutnz · Post by **punkoutnz** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:38 pm

I reckon it'll fit. There's a fair bit of give in the rubber boot so 10mm is nothing.

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:18 pm

Ditched the 17s and replaced with 15s. Huge improvement in ride quality and seems to handle better so plus all round

Steering related.....???

Just a thought. You can come round and borrow my wheels whenever you want to test....I might even help

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:45 pm

Mad Kiwi wrote:Steering related.....???

Just a thought. You can come round and borrow my wheels whenever you want to test....I might even help

Thanks for the offer, but Brakes too big, will only fit 16" wheels, plus think I have pretty much sorted the steering, will find out on the track for sure.

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:53 pm

Donovan wrote:Tracked the source of the petrol fumes coming into the cabin, pulled out the centre console part around the gearstick, and there is no rubber boot there, just open to the elements. Can't find it in the box of parts I picked up with the car, so getting a new one from Mazda parts. Now I am just not sure whether it is going to fit, as the gearselector is back about 10mm or so from where the standard on it (when in the netural position, looks like is it in 4th). If it doesn't fit, not really sure what I am going to do, in the mean time, packed in a whole pile of denim around in the gaps, which has seemed to stop most of it getting blown up in there, also the trans tunnel doesn't seem to get overly hot either now, weird.

If it is too strectched , you might be able to drill new holes and use rivnuts into the tunnel to hold it. Otherwise just use race-tape.

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:47 pm

Picked up the car again this morning after getting an addition to the roll bar fitted for mounting race harnesses into it for the upcoming track sessions.

Went around to Paul's (2LOW2C) garage to quickly throw it on the scales to see how many mince and cheese pies she had been eating for the past year and a half that she has been away from me. Bad news, quite a few it turns out. Was hoping that all up would be able to keep it under 1100kg, but no, weight with half a tank of go juice is 1166kg, before it went under the knife, was 980kg.

On the plus side, the front/rear split isn't that bad, with my 72kg frame in it 52.2 in the front, and 47.8 (53.1/46.9 without me), and apparently the diagonal was just about 50/50, so still pretty balanced all things considering. Maybe I am going to have to go on a diet of mince and cheese pies to get the front/rear split better. Just like to add, sorry Paul for leaving a bit of rubber outside your work, keep forgetting not to use more than half throttle for a quick take off without leaving some of my tyres behind.

Anyhow, took her out to Manakau as apparently my original ECU is all fixed up, and have left it out with Protune for a couple of days for them to get her purring like a little kitten, so hopefully idles, and doesn't run rich and stink the place out.

Now, how to loose 60kg's off the car without stripping the interior and from the front axle.

harlansmart · Post by **harlansmart** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:57 pm

STOP lying

Loved it, more more more please

Donovan wrote:sorry... for leaving a bit of rubber outside

Born_disturbed · Post by **Born_disturbed** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:34 am

Full one piece carbon fiber front end?

dynofiend · Post by **dynofiend** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:15 pm

There's very little weight to lose up front unfortunately. The only things I can think of that you can do easily would be removing or replacing some of the crash structure (certable afterwards?) replacing body panels (which wont gain much at all) or perhaps ditching the air con (if you have it?).

Im assuming youre already running an aluminium radiator and have a decently lightweight set of wheels and brakes (rotational or unsprung mass is 10 times as important as static sprung mass). If youre running large wheels with the intention of reducing wheelspin, then please do bear in mind that due to changes in the shape of the contact patch with larger wheels, you might actually LOSE straightline traction with larger wheels than with standard sizes! It's why you often see fwd road/drag cars replacing their bling massive rims, for standard sized ones when on the strip!

Last and final step might be losing the soft top, but such things really do impact on the usability of the car. Id rather be able to drive the car in changable weather conditions, than have it 20kgs lighter

Or, just fill up $10 at a time

The only option where losing weight saves you money!

Really the best thing you can do is adjust the suspension setup that you have to suit the new weight. As you point out, the car feels fine to drive, and doesn't feel heavy, so why bother trying to shed 50kgs (expensively), when you can actually make a much bigger difference to the car's handling and performance by tweaking suspension parts. A harder spring and damper rate all round would be a good start. Adjustable spring platforms can get your L-R balance exactly right. You can then assess the balance and tweak with arb sizes. Perhaps scope out what the 'pros' use for suspension set ups when doing their own V8 conversions.

At least this puts to rest the assertions that ive seen from some that the V8 conversions add little, if any, weight at all to the car!

Donovan · Post by **Donovan** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:46 pm

Thanks for that, the comment about loosing the 60kgs was more tongue in check than anything else, as I know it is going to be pretty hard with out going strip out mode, which is not what I want to do, I just had this figure in my head that I could keep it under 1100kg, but no to be.

Air Con already gone, alloy radiator in place, lightweight wheels and lightweight brakes and rotors fitted, soft top removed (although that is most likely going to go back in to keep it balanced). Have 17" on the car at the moment, but most likely will be reserved for track days, and will find some 16" to go on it (can't go smaller than 16" because of the size of the brakes), as the ride with the 17" is a bit unforgiving on the road, too old to be bounced all over the place.

Most likely some time down the track will go with a lighter flywheel, and maybe strip out all necessary wiring in it, that might drop 10kg or so.

HSV MX5

Who is online