NA with NO power down low? Help i need a trusted Mechanic!

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:33 am

Hi there, im a long time reader of this forum but its time to start typing and ask for some help.

Basically my '89 1600 has bugger all power up to about 2500rpm, its got to the point i dont drive it in case i get stuck in traffic halfway up a hill or something!
It does drive but i have to rev the crap out of her to get up to speed and thats just on the flat...goes fine once the rev;s are up though??

Ive changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil+filter, plugs, leads. I had a more mechanicly minded mate check the check the timing and confimed the fuel pump works.
Thought it was the AFM but still gutless when swapped with another one...
Managed to get to Tauranga to have a MegaSquirt ECU fitted by Jared but it still no change!

To get back to Auck we advanced to Cam angle sensor all the way, upped the fuel mix and the idle heaps - which worked but hasnt fixed the problem so im not driving her.
(Jared being a auto-sparky not a full-on mechanic i dont have a bad word to say about him and greatly appreciate his time!)

Unfortunately i havn't got a bloody clue so any technical advice will fly over my head, i can change spark plugs and thats about it plus i dont have a garage just a carport to work in. -not ideal.

Its time to take it to a professional but i don't know who to trust.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Tom.

Post by **jif** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:39 am

On 1 October 2011 10:33, tomtikki <mx5talk@mx5forum.co.nz (mx5talk@mx5forum.co.nz)> wrote:

Hi there, im a long time reader of this forum but its time to start typing and ask for some help.

Basically my '89 1600 has bugger all power up to about 2500rpm, its got to the point i dont drive it in case i get stuck in traffic halfway up a hill or something!
It does drive but i have to rev the crap out of her to get up to speed and thats just on the flat...goes fine once the rev;s are up though??

Ive changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil+filter, plugs, leads. I had a more mechanicly minded mate check the check the timing and confimed the fuel pump works.
Thought it was the AFM but still gutless when swapped with another one...
Managed to get to Tauranga to have a MegaSquirt ECU fitted by Jared but it still no change!

To get back to Auck we advanced to Cam angle sensor all the way, upped the fuel mix and the idle heaps - which worked but hasnt fixed the problem so im not driving her.
(Jared being a auto-sparky not a full-on mechanic i dont have a bad word to say about him and greatly appreciate his time!)

Unfortunately i havn't got a bloody clue so any technical advice will fly over my head, i can change spark plugs and thats about it plus i dont have a garage just a carport to work in. -not ideal.

Its time to take it to a professional but i don't know who to trust.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Tom.

Hi Tom - tried the spark plug leads yet ? Its an easy , and common fix

cheers.

[Posted via external email]

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:14 pm

Is the throttle body flap ever been cleaned as it may be sticking?.. they are a bit prone to gunking up also you {may] have a leak on the air intake tract somewhere causing false readings to the PCM.

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:26 pm

Thanks Jif, yeah new leads and plug did make her run a little nicer but had no affect on the power problem.

Yeah thanks Wideopen, my mate checked the throttle body and as for the false readings from a leaking air intake the MagaSquirt bypasses that issue im told.

Its like the intake was blocked so we pulled it all off and no change, the only thing Jared from TeamJelly (megasquirt supplier) could suggest is perhaps the exhaust had become blocked but im in no position to check that.

Its all way over my head now.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 12:51 pm

it a possibility that the cams were not aligned correctly when having the cambelt changed....one of the cams may be a tooth out of place. saying that you adjusted the cam sensor all the way is leading me to this conclusion....

one of the club members (Fletch?) had a muffler baffle come loose and block the exhaust causing issues so its not unheard of.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 1:00 pm

also you may have a dud oxygen sensor.

stock ecu runs off the O2 sensor even at full throttle up to 4500rpm. and can be faulty without throwing a check engine light. they get Lazy.

Did you use your stock Oxy sensor to tune your megasquirt?

Do you have extractors fitted?? Extractors usually have the oxy sensor fitted too far away from the engine causing them to run too cool. fitting a heated Oxy sensor is a must when running extractors on a mx5

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:19 pm

hi

just to add to the list
since you have the early 1.6 engine your crank keyway may be chewed out

broomfish · Post by **broomfish** » Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:12 pm

I have a mechanical workshop and can have a look at it for you and see what i can suggest. give me a call during the week on the number below if you want to organise it.

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:29 am

sprsta wrote:since you have the early 1.6 engine your crank keyway may be chewed out

Would be my immediate thought.

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:22 pm

Mr. Shine wrote:
sprsta wrote:since you have the early 1.6 engine your crank keyway may be chewed out
Would be my immediate thought.

I would say that is the problem. From memory if you take all of the plugs out, put the dipstick into number 1 cylinder and turn the engine by hand (NOT by the key!) and turn the crank until the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Centre - Where the dipstick reaches its highest). Then check if the marks on the bottom pully align with the marks reading TDC. (You may have to put your timing etc back to standard to check). If its the pulley that has gone then you are lucky as you only have to change that. If its the crank that has gone then its more expensive to fix (I have examples of a stuffed crank nose at home).
You can glue the pulley back however there is no gaurantee on how long this will last.
The easiest fix I did was to put a later model engine into it - say from a 91' - 92'. It takes about 15 hours to swap engines if you are doing it yourself.

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:06 pm

broomfish wrote:I have a mechanical workshop and can have a look at it for you and see what i can suggest. give me a call during the week on the number below if you want to organise it.

Cheers Peter, i'll give you a shout!

Thanks to all who have taken the time to contribute, however i hope your all wrong and its nothing but bad fuel or the moons of saturn altering the poles and really cheap/easy to fix!

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:15 pm

Growler wrote:I would say that is the problem. From memory if you take all of the plugs out, put the dipstick into number 1 cylinder and turn the engine by hand (NOT by the key!) and turn the crank until the piston is at TDC (Top Dead Centre - Where the dipstick reaches its highest). Then check if the marks on the bottom pully align with the marks reading TDC. (You may have to put your timing etc back to standard to check). If its the pulley that has gone then you are lucky as you only have to change that. If its the crank that has gone then its more expensive to fix (I have examples of a stuffed crank nose at home).

Above is correct - the important part being the bottom pulley marks as the top marks will read as correct even if your crankshaft keyway or pulley are stuffed and throwing the timing out.

You can glue the pulley back however there is no gaurantee on how long this will last.
The easiest fix I did was to put a later model engine into it - say from a 91' - 92'. It takes about 15 hours to swap engines if you are doing it yourself.

I went with a welded and re-cut keyway when it happened to me, but that's only because I wasn't able to do an engine swap myself and would have likely paid the same amount either way, and also knew my engine was in fairly good shape.

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:22 pm

Mr. Shine wrote:I went with a welded and re-cut keyway when it happened to me, but that's only because I wasn't able to do an engine swap myself and would have likely paid the same amount either way, and also knew my engine was in fairly good shape.

.
I could have shown you! I have done 6 now for various people/members.

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:07 pm

Damm.
Well those of you who picked the crank keyway as the most likely culprit to my above problem.... you were correct! 10points to you.

However as i investigate my options i really, really wish you'd been wrong!!!

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:14 am

mazbits have a 1800 turbo front half available

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:03 pm

tomtikki wrote:However as i investigate my options i really, really wish you'd been wrong!!!

Your cheapest option is probably a drop-in replacement engine, but if you're unable to do it yourself or arrange for it to be done cheaply by someone in the club (much like I was unable to, though I appreciate the hindsight-offer Growler!) then it certainly will look more expensive.

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:43 pm

I spoke to the guys at Taylor Automotive (in Grafton) today and they can re-grind the keyway, fit a new pulley etc for around $800, depending on parts.
They have a jig/experience that allows them to do it all with the engine in the car, basically it will be as good as when it came out of the factory, now while that would be good.... a turbo'd 1800 would be sweet! I'll give them a call tomorrow to find out $$, i was hoping to supercharge mine but as will blow the money i'd saved for that on this event i dont think i can be picky about what type of forced induction i have!
Its only money after all!

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:57 pm

this one here is cheap
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 246671.htm

make sure you speak to jason when you call mazbits

tomtikki · Post by **tomtikki** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:04 pm

While i admit im a cheap bastard, dude that engine's done 270km!

Noted, Jason at Mazbits. Cheers.

mazline · Post by **mazline** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 4:18 pm

I,ve got a mint b6 long nose crank engine from a car done 103,000km,with TODA chrome molly flywheel and ARC coldair box and headers in from Japan if keen,
Has also got HPC coated rocker cover i have just had done and 8mm leads ,will come with the motor if keen.
Our man in japan drove the car and said it got off it arse quite well.
PM me if keen.
Cheers
Brownie