NB DIY QUESTION + AMSOIL

[Steve Greig]

Does anyone know the best DIY manual for a 2003 1.8 NB, and where to get it. Haynes looks like they only do a repair manual for earlier NA model. Also what is the best oil to use? Has anyone used Amsoil? On their US website there is a "Build List" where everything from oil filters, spark plugs and wiper blades are recommended. Very interesting...

[flushmiater]

Sorry, i can't answer your question, but the mention of AMSOIL reminds me of a bit of an in-joke on another automotive forum i frequent.

It's a general-automotive forum, so it gets a lot of differant topics on it. The userbase is pretty savvy too.

This guy shows up, and sets up his project thread. In his opening post he goes on about the parts he's using, specifically mentioning amsoil by brand name, because its what 'the pro's use'. The guy mentions AMSOIL, what the pro's use, about 6 or 7 times through out his opening post, using affiliate links to link through to online shops selling AMSOIL (what the pro's use). clearly he's not actually setting up a project thread, but rather just trying to sell AMSOIL (what the pro's use.)

The community latches onto this pretty quickly, and he gets shamed away from posting there again. From then on, whenever someone asks which oil to use for doing a DIY oil change, some smart ass will pipe up and tell them to use "AMSOIL, its what the pro's use".

I guess the moral of the story is I can't really comment on my own experiences with AMSOIL, except suggest it for you, because it's what the pro's use.

[Steve Greig]

Ha ha, that's funny... Others out there call it Scamsoil, but without any real foundation. A mechanic friend (I suppose you'd call him a pro) is a big fan of Amsoil for his old bikes and reckons I should get some, plus Amsoil's nano particle filter which apparently is good for life of engine oil.
They reckon this set-up is good for 30,000kms or 12 months!

So it's a choice I suppose of better quality? (more expensive) oil and less changes OR standard synthetic oil (cheaper) and more frequent changes.

[Nearly too late]

I suggest that you change your oil regulary, 8 - 10000 ks as the oil does not break down but becomes contaminated, this is why you change the oil.
Any oil mineral or synthetic does become contaminated.

[Mark]

I suggest that you change your oil regulary, 8 - 10000 ks as the oil does not break down but becomes contaminated, this is why you change the oil.
Any oil mineral or synthetic does become contaminated.

Yes - contaminated with acids that erode metals, bearing surfaces etc.
But also there is some break-down, as oil additives like pour point depressants and viscosity index modifiers are polymers (Olefin copolymers and sometimes others) which break down with heat, detergents to reduce sludging, additives to neutralise acids from combustion and corrosion inhibitors which are depleted etc, as well as contamination with unburned fuel and subsequent viscosity loss.

Don't believe any claim that some device can extend life of engine oil. Filtering out bits of metal and other crap is only one part of it.

I'm not too much of a believer in "single source" base oils (Penzoil) as vacuum distillation of base oils - which are now just a traded commodity - has for the past few decades reduced boiling point range so that it makes little difference if any at all. Synthetics reduce or eliminate the problem with viscosity index modifier breakdown, but don't eliminate the other issues.
OTOH, if buying a used car with records to show that only premium priced oils have been used, chances are the owner also didn't skimp on other maintenance, so it might be a good sign.

[brownie]

The car dealer"Wayne Hill Cars" Here in CH CH is the importer,Real nice guy too.
We run Amsoil in a Saloon speedway Chev Camaro' after running Castrol Edge was always breaking down leading to low oil pressure after one good run,Amsoil always maintained pressure ,We swear by the stuff'Went from having to change oil every meet to changing oil every 4 meets,It was still good even then,But being a 383 chev given asssholes ,always better to be safe then sorry,Sad thing was it still didn't help when the motor went bang at 11,000rpm !!.
In a road car like a MX5 it will last for ages,You would get away with doing oil changes one a year or more ,so even though you pay more at the time you only have to buy half as much.
.
There's my 2 cents worth for the day

[Mark]

In a road car like a MX5 it will last for ages,You would get away with doing oil changes one a year or more ,so even though you pay more at the time you only have to buy half as much.

Most Amsoil grades are not API certified.
If it's a new car, that might invalidate your warranty.
If it's an old car / with cat removed, then no problems.
I'm not very interested in Mobil 1 vs Amsoil discussions etc. - it's a load of crock for normal owners/drivers. For extreme use a synthetic oil makes good sense and is specified by some makers.
Best advice is to use grades and at intervals that the car manufacturer recommends, with a footnote that an unmodified MX5 hasn't got a "high performance engine" - it's no different than most family car engines, and less than many.