Ignition switch problems

poison · Post by **poison** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 7:36 pm

Today my ignition switch failed at the supermarket with a bunch of frozen goods in the nice rather hot sun. The key turned way too easily like there is no mechanical connection and nothing happens electrically.

Fortunately it still disengaged the steering lock, so with just a screw driver and a bit of wire I pulled off the lower panel and unclipped the terminal block from the back then using the latest in scientific analytical methodology I randomly shorted pins together to work out what was what. Having recently installed a turbo timer I was fairly sure I couldn’t do too much harm. So after a lot of mucking around I got the car going again.

Has anyone pulled one of these apart? Obviously there a connector tab of some sort between the mechanical key switch and the rotary electrical switch itself? I am thinking this has broken off. Is this replaceable? Or way too may $$$$$$ for a whole new ignition switch?

Thank God for spell check.... Or thank Microsoft... who think they are God.

poison · Post by **poison** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:54 pm

I pulled the electrical rotary switch off the back, one screw, easy. And the tiny metal tab has broken off the back of the key switch assembly. It seems integral to the steering lock so it looks like I have to get a whole new (used) ignition assembly.

I've disconnected the battery so the airbag backup battery will go flat (just in case).

So questions...
Can I just undo the two bolts under the dash and lower the steering column? This is so I can get to the two ignition switch/steering lock bolts (with no heads that look hard to get out).

Do I need to remove the steering wheel? That will add more suck to this whole thing.

How do you remove the key barrel? So I don't have to change keys.

I assume the NA and NB ignition assembly is the same. Can anyone confirm this?

Has anyone got an ignition assembly they will sell me cheap cheap please.... I can trade blankets, beads and whisky.... after all it's Waitangi day. But you don't get to claim it back when you change your mind.

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 9:10 am

The two bolts with no heads come off by tapping with a hammer & small sharp cold chisel or similar tool.On a 323 that i replaced the lock mechanism it came free once this was done but remember to have the keys in i think to release the steering lock.Can you solder a jumper wire to anywhere to fix the lost connection?

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 9:28 am

If you want to keep the same keys take the lock to a locksmith, a good one should be able to sort ya!

poison · Post by **poison** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:25 pm

Come one guys someone must know the answers to some of these.

- If I remove the steering column mounting bolts, will the column move down a little so I can access the ignition bolts?

- Are the NA and NB ignition assemblies the same?

- Locksmith? How hard can it be… surely there can’t be any small spring loaded bits inside a lock….. ha ha… Why pay someone to do dsomething you can F*** up yourself....None the less… anyone know how to remove the lock barrel? There seems to be a couple of metal pins, do I need to drill out one or both of these?

And there must be someone with a spare one…

Thanks WideOpenThrottle…. Unfortunately the lost connection is the mechanical connection between the back of the steering locking mechanism and the rotary switch, and not something that can be fixed by the look of things. FYI - I have had nothing but really crap service from North Shore Mazda in Glenfield so will never be going back there).

poison · Post by **poison** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:26 pm

Come one guys someone must know the answers to some of these.

- If I remove the steering column mounting bolts, will the column move down a little so I can access the ignition bolts?

- Are the NA and NB ignition assemblies the same?

- Locksmith? How hard can it be… surely there can’t be any small spring loaded bits inside a lock….. ha ha… Why pay someone to do something you can F*** up yourself....None the less… anyone know how to remove the lock barrel? There seems to be a couple of metal pins, do I need to drill out one or both of these?

And there must be someone with a spare one…

Thanks WideOpenThrottle…. Unfortunately the lost connection is the mechanical connection between the back of the steering locking mechanism and the rotary switch, and not something that can be fixed by the look of things. FYI - I have had nothing but really crap service from North Shore Mazda in Glenfield so will never be going back there).

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:02 pm

You may need to loosen the steering flange nuts also that go thru the firewall above the pedals & watch out for wiring looms when it frees up.Go to www.miatanet.com for compatibility guide in the garage section.Can you post a picture of your ignition barrel/switch?My Na whole steering assembly is out of the car & i could comparare.

brownie · Post by **brownie** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:21 pm

If you have time you can give me a ring at work during business hours
Mazline Partsworld
0800 323 626
Let me see if i can help you out over the phone.
I will either save you money or relieve you of some

Regards
Mark

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:12 am

Hi Mark

Thanks I'll call you tomorrow, I spoke to Nick at Mazline today and he said I had to look for an SL## number underneath. Mine is an SL28. I'm hoping I can get it off without pulling the steering wheel, some of the front screws may be tricky.

And W.O.T. thanks for the offer, I tried taking some photo's with little success, I think Mark should be able to point me in the right direction. If not I'll be pulling it out anyway then can take a pic. I tried the compatibility guide without any luck, but good lead thanks. Perhaps you could look at the model number under yours please SL##.

The parts guides are great on Miata.net though. http://www.miata.net/garage/90-99Parts/index.html

This is essentially what I got, not that it means much and they are possibly all identical. I imagine the NA will have different dash mounts as the facia is different.

Lock Assy, Ignition
Man Trans
90-94 NA01-76-290F
95-97 NA75-76-290C
99-00 NCY0-76-290
Auto Trans
90-94 N022-76-290C
95-97 NA81-76-290C
99-00 NCY3-76-290
Hope this doesn't get all muddled when I post it...

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WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:05 pm

Mine is SL-17 1989NA & you should be able to remove it as is

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:31 pm

Ok, it looks like I’m well on the way to sorting this out. As per my previous email I rang Mazline and Nick told me to look for the SL## number. I rang Mark ( brownie ) at Mazline and he was extremely helpful, gave me some good tips to get me going and got the part on it’s way, and with some great pricing to boot. Big ups to Mark and Mazline. He also convinced me to get a lock smith to do the key barrel…. all those little springs and bits.…

Thanks also to WideOpenThrottle for the help.

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Ignition switch problems

Ignition switch problems

Oh crap looks like a whole new assembly.

Ignition switch problems - Miata.net parts guides

Ignition switch problems - Mazline Rock

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