Flyin Miata Link ECU
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
hi have just brought a 2nd generation link from trade me, some of you have probably seen it on there.
has anyone used one before?
i will be installing it on saturday, seems pretty straight foward going by the instructions
poison? is that your name on trade me too
if so did you use the mark 1 link that you brought from jenifer as i now have the mark two that she upgraded to
have sorted out my newintake pipe now im sure itll be better than sucking air from the exhaust manifold
fingers crossed that ill be able to drive it home from my workshop on saturday night
roll on the turbo
has anyone used one before?
i will be installing it on saturday, seems pretty straight foward going by the instructions
poison? is that your name on trade me too
if so did you use the mark 1 link that you brought from jenifer as i now have the mark two that she upgraded to
have sorted out my newintake pipe now im sure itll be better than sucking air from the exhaust manifold
fingers crossed that ill be able to drive it home from my workshop on saturday night
roll on the turbo
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
I had one for 8 odd years. Had a rant about cold start etc before (a search will find it) .. but on the whole it was ok.
Go with the appropriate set of defaults and take it from there..? let us know how you get on ...
Go with the appropriate set of defaults and take it from there..? let us know how you get on ...
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
Yup Poison is Poison, there can be only one.... "Thank God"... who said that...
Indeed I did, she is an amaizing lady. I sold mine to Habanero666, if you PM him he may be able to give you his settings. There was a small mod you can make to the MK I for temperature compensation and something else I can't recall and then there is no operational difference Mk I to Mk II other than the knock sensor input on the MK II which can be added for about $200.00 from memory.
I sold it as I ended up with an NB and given the amount of ECU features including even the dash lights a piggy back ECU was the best solution. I went a second hand Emanage Blue but I would go Mega Squirt for features and price next time. IMHO anyway.
Indeed I did, she is an amaizing lady. I sold mine to Habanero666, if you PM him he may be able to give you his settings. There was a small mod you can make to the MK I for temperature compensation and something else I can't recall and then there is no operational difference Mk I to Mk II other than the knock sensor input on the MK II which can be added for about $200.00 from memory.
I sold it as I ended up with an NB and given the amount of ECU features including even the dash lights a piggy back ECU was the best solution. I went a second hand Emanage Blue but I would go Mega Squirt for features and price next time. IMHO anyway.


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issues
NO START!!!
changed all nessesary wires but am having issues with the map sensor and ambient air temp sensors. these are not the original ones from the kit but have been brought from link new
map sensor reads normal but i didnt think the air temp would not let it start thought it would just not let it go into boost
seems to be fueling just no spark
also key pad brings up some funny squiggles and things some times or moves the display over so you can only see half of what its trying to show
NO START!!!
changed all nessesary wires but am having issues with the map sensor and ambient air temp sensors. these are not the original ones from the kit but have been brought from link new
map sensor reads normal but i didnt think the air temp would not let it start thought it would just not let it go into boost
seems to be fueling just no spark
also key pad brings up some funny squiggles and things some times or moves the display over so you can only see half of what its trying to show
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ok squigles mean ribbon cable or pins on the plug are bad so ill sort that out and try again
have been reading the tuning manual again and seen that there is a security feature that when the controller is not pluged in the car wont start maby this is turned on and the bad cable makes it think it is not pluged in
still no ideas on the intake temp sensor though
have been reading the tuning manual again and seen that there is a security feature that when the controller is not pluged in the car wont start maby this is turned on and the bad cable makes it think it is not pluged in
still no ideas on the intake temp sensor though
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
hi sprsta
you can verify the security feature if you have the serial link box and hook it up to a laptop running DLL http://www.dataloglab.com/
have you got the right temp sensor? I'm pretty sure the FMLink uses something unique ... http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=312564 ,,, when I bought the Link locally I had to buy the knock and AIT (air intake temp) sensor from FM.
If Fletch is on here he could probably set you right ...
-J
you can verify the security feature if you have the serial link box and hook it up to a laptop running DLL http://www.dataloglab.com/
have you got the right temp sensor? I'm pretty sure the FMLink uses something unique ... http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=312564 ,,, when I bought the Link locally I had to buy the knock and AIT (air intake temp) sensor from FM.
If Fletch is on here he could probably set you right ...
-J
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
They can't use link air temp sensor because plug in miata link does not have the ability to read a standard temp sensor on the board. The flying miata air temp sensor has its own built in circuit board.
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
that's the thing ... they're not regular sensors, the FM temp sensor sends a PWM signal rather than voltage or resistance. If you contact FM they'll be able to sort you out, they're a good bunch.
Maybe Link-electro will take the Link sensor back as part credit on the ribbon cable. Once you work out what the ECU is seeing it will make troubleshooting much much easier :]
You're welcome...
Maybe Link-electro will take the Link sensor back as part credit on the ribbon cable. Once you work out what the ECU is seeing it will make troubleshooting much much easier :]
You're welcome...
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i have been emailing jeremy at FM about the map sensor i didnt think to mention the air temp before i brought it
i have tracked down jenifer who originally brought this ecu from flyin miata and emailed her to see if i could buy it from her if she still has it
fingers crossed
this is turning into quite a mission
i have tracked down jenifer who originally brought this ecu from flyin miata and emailed her to see if i could buy it from her if she still has it
fingers crossed
this is turning into quite a mission
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
I have a ribon cable if you need to borrow one
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link mark I & II
Hi there, Yep I have installed the mark I link ecu from Poison with the circuit board mods for FM air temp sensor ( for mark I only). If you follow the tuning manual that is applicable for your chip software, you should have no problems (that is after you sort out the ribbon cable). The manual you are after is the "plug in ecus on 90-97 Revision 4.6 02-13-07". It's on the FM home page, try this link .
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instr ... tuning.pdf
I only used the air temp sensor for tuning and now run with it switched off.
Any probs yell for help aye!
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instr ... tuning.pdf
I only used the air temp sensor for tuning and now run with it switched off.
Any probs yell for help aye!

Tires aren't cheap!
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
The temp sensor I got was the one from Link in NZ, the guy at link told me they are both the same value but just look different.
Also the guys at the on-line help desk at Flyin Miata are REALLY GOOD and would usually mail back within a day.
FYI the guy at Link also said... Knock occurs long before you can here it & if you set the sensitivety correctly on the knocklink display it will pick it up well before you can hear it. The knock sensor itself just get a s/h banjo type off a nissan skyline or similar & use that.
Also the guys at the on-line help desk at Flyin Miata are REALLY GOOD and would usually mail back within a day.
FYI the guy at Link also said... Knock occurs long before you can here it & if you set the sensitivety correctly on the knocklink display it will pick it up well before you can hear it. The knock sensor itself just get a s/h banjo type off a nissan skyline or similar & use that.


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got hold of jennifer today she said she might still have the air temp sensor and will have a look for it tonight gosh i hope she finds it
plugged the ecu in again thismorning to check the map reading again
i am only getting 14 kpa i think it should be at 100-103 kpa with the ign on and engine off i am not using the miata link map sensor but the link genuine 2.5 bar map sensor i cant figure it out i thought all map sensors showed the same signals can anyone shed some light?
plugged the ecu in again thismorning to check the map reading again
i am only getting 14 kpa i think it should be at 100-103 kpa with the ign on and engine off i am not using the miata link map sensor but the link genuine 2.5 bar map sensor i cant figure it out i thought all map sensors showed the same signals can anyone shed some light?
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
check the voltage at the power wire ,5 or 12 volt and make sure it is the same as the sensor
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have been away most of last week and havnt been able to touch the car so not sure on the voltage yet will check later on this week but i think you may be right
jennifer emailed me today and the air temp sensor is gone for good but she talked to Gary capper and he thinks he may have come soloutions will give him a call tomorrow
does anyone know what the pins on the plug for the AFM are
jennifer emailed me today and the air temp sensor is gone for good but she talked to Gary capper and he thinks he may have come soloutions will give him a call tomorrow
does anyone know what the pins on the plug for the AFM are
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Re: link mark I & II
does that produce a pwm signal or a resistance?Habanero666 wrote:I only used the air temp sensor for tuning and now run with it switched off.
gary said not to worry about the air temp sensor but as far as i know i wont be able to run boost without it guess ill have to save for that before the turbo
wish i could get controll of the finances
found a wiring diagram, and found that i get 5v to the map sensor when i bridge the power and ground on the connector but i get 12v if i ground to the chassis. thought that was wierd
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
I would not have thought the air temp sensor should effect any boost settings? I thought it was only for winter cold air compensation. JIF????
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copied from tuning manual:
not much piont in trying to install till i get the temp sensor i guess4) Check the intake air temperature sensor operation: Press the adjust up key, the screen
will display the ambient air temperature next to the letter “A” in degrees celsius. In this same
screen the coolant temperature will also be displayed next to the letter “C” in degrees celsius.
A bad connection in the air temp sensor wiring will read 100, and the ECU will not allow the
car to go into boost as a safety feature. Putting a hidden switch inline on this wire can also be
a useful valet device due to this property. Note- we recommend giving the ATS its own ground
point to defend the signal from voltage leaks.
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i only get 1.5v through the power and ground on the map sensor with the link so i havnt fried it hopefully. cant find 5v, (i was checking with wrong ecu in before) still trying to find a pinout diagram for a miata link. i have e-mailed jeremy at fm and he said they have never had a pinout diagram of their ecu. i just want to know wich input is the map signal to the ecu and run a jumper wire between the fuel cut terminals
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