Roll your own Style bars

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 2:14 pm

Part 1

This morning I was at a friends farm and I noticed an old bull bar set off a
Hi-Lux hanging in a barn. Something about them rang a bell. I noticed 2 curved
pieces that protect the headlights from damage and that they are U shaped. I
now own this bullbar ( for 6 cans of CD) and have cut off both of the U shaped
bits . Now I have just to work out how to attach these to the strut behind the
seat. Presumable it will not be sensible to drill holes in the strut. Can
someone comment if the integrity of the strut would be effected with 4 only
10 mm holes drilled through it ?

Regards

--
Col

Col's law
* Thinly sliced cabbage *

Wayne · Post by **Wayne** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 6:11 pm

Col

It might pay you to check with LTSA or your WOF issuer regarding style bars.
I believe that they have to be a certain distance from your head to be
classed as a style bar or they will have to be classed as a roll bar and
they may need an engineers certificate. Someone out there may have the info
you need. I am only guessing here so this is not gospel. OK.

Wayne

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 7:04 pm

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:11:47 +1300, you wrote:

Col

It might pay you to check with LTSA or your WOF issuer regarding style bars.
I believe that they have to be a certain distance from your head to be
classed as a style bar or they will have to be classed as a roll bar and
they may need an engineers certificate. Someone out there may have the info
you need. I am only guessing here so this is not gospel. OK.

Wayne

There is always some Gov't Dept or other that seems to intrude on one's fun.

I will make them removeable for WOF purposes. Got to work out how to attach the
damn things first thuogh .

Cheers and thanks for the reply Wayne

--

Col

Christchurch beaches are dangerous.
If in trouble hold up you hand and shout
F1 F1 F1 F1

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 9:15 pm

check out my website:
http://miata.cardomain.com/id/supasparky
for pics of my style bars. the mounting plates sit
vertically alongside the towers, and use the two
existing tower holes with bolts. if you want it
stronger i suggest adding a horizontal tab to the top
front edge of the plates which pick up on the seat
belt bolts.
On my car i use a 2.5" cross bar which has its
centerline directly above the rear bolt hole.(The one
that the soft top boot clips to.)
E mail me if you want any guidance on design.

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 10:03 pm

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 08:15:12 +0000 (GMT), you wrote:

check out my website:
http://miata.cardomain.com/id/supasparky
for pics of my style bars. the mounting plates sit
vertically alongside the towers, and use the two
existing tower holes with bolts. if you want it
stronger i suggest adding a horizontal tab to the top
front edge of the plates which pick up on the seat
belt bolts.
On my car i use a 2.5" cross bar which has its
centerline directly above the rear bolt hole.(The one
that the soft top boot clips to.)
E mail me if you want any guidance on design.

I have one of those struts that is set back from the bolt line giving another 2"
for the seats to go back . I was thinking of attaching just the bars directly to
the strut .
Colin Francis
Krenford Holdings Ltd
P.O. Box 18547
Christchurch
New Zealand
Ph (64) 3 3387-450 or (64) 0 274 321-737

www.westmorland.co.nz

Mike Pearson - WYSIWYG... · Post by **Mike Pearson - WYSIWYG...** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 12:23 am

Colin wrote:
Now I have just to work out how to attach these to the
strut behind the seat.

Just remember to comply with the LTSA rules...

DRAFT AMENDMENT

Fitting of or modification to:
Roll-bar or roll-cage structures (roll protection or cosmetic)

LVV Certification is not required provided that:
(refer to lvv certifier if beyond threshold below)

? each seating position is fitted with an effective head restraint; and
? the bars are positioned:
- behind, following a plane extending upward,
parallel to the back of the backrest on the rear-most seat; and
- in such a way that the head-restraint would provide protection
from head contact with any bar section during a crash

As an example at the Racing Beat site, using the principle "the head can't
strike them in an an accident situation", then some would pass and some
wouldn't:

Ok:
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57222
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57223
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57224
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57211
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57212

Not ok:
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57200
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57226
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57225
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=57228

Regards,
Mike - Wellington / Upper Hutt MX5 Club Co-ordinator
http://www.mx5club.org.nz/events/wellington/ - RSVP ANY EVENTS YOU WILL ATTEND
04-970-9709 (home), 021-631-731, (text/cell)
Wellington, NZ

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 7:23 am

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:23:51 +1300, you wrote:

[...]

Regards,
Mike - Wellington / Upper Hutt MX5 Club Co-ordinator
http://www.mx5club.org.nz/events/wellington/ - RSVP ANY EVENTS YOU WILL
ATTEND
04-970-9709 (home), 021-631-731, (text/cell)
Wellington, NZ

THanks Mike. I will just have to give that som thought before I proceed and
produce my Part Number 00001

Colin Francis
Krenford Holdings Ltd
P.O. Box 18547
Christchurch
New Zealand
Ph (64) 3 3387-450 or (64) 0 274 321-737

www.westmorland.co.nz

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 7:24 am

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:23:51 +1300, you wrote:

[...]

Regards,
Mike - Wellington / Upper Hutt MX5 Club Co-ordinator
http://www.mx5club.org.nz/events/wellington/ - RSVP ANY EVENTS YOU WILL
ATTEND
04-970-9709 (home), 021-631-731, (text/cell)
Wellington, NZ

THanks Mike. I will just have to give that som thought before I proceed and
produce my Part Number 00001

Colin Francis
Krenford Holdings Ltd
P.O. Box 18547
Christchurch
New Zealand
Ph (64) 3 3387-450 or (64) 0 274 321-737

www.westmorland.co.nz

EricW · Post by **EricW** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 7:52 am

I would be pretty nervous about drilling holes in the rear brace. I know it
is probably not essential to the structural integrity of the car, a lot of
MX5s don't have them, but the WOF authorities would probably take the
attitude that, being an original structural component, it should not be
modified, particularly in a way which would weaken it.

Another, if somewhat pedantic, point, is that the car must be maintained in
warrantable condition between warrants, if it is on the road, it must be
able to pass a warrant inspection at any time. So knowingly removing a
non-complying fitting for the purpose of obtaining a warrant, and then
refitting it afterwards, apart from being illegal, might well provide your
insurance company with all the excuse it needs.

At the end of the day, the hassle of doing it wrong probably costs more than
ensuring it is done right.

Just a thought from an old ex-copper

Eric

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Wed Jan 28, 2004 8:24 am

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:52:58 +1300, you wrote:

I would be pretty nervous about drilling holes in the rear brace. I know it
is probably not essential to the structural integrity of the car, a lot of
MX5s don't have them, but the WOF authorities would probably take the
attitude that, being an original structural component, it should not be
modified, particularly in a way which would weaken it.

Yeah. I have gathered that might be the case.

Another, if somewhat pedantic, point, is that the car must be maintained in
warrantable condition between warrants, if it is on the road, it must be
able to pass a warrant inspection at any time. So knowingly removing a
non-complying fitting for the purpose of obtaining a warrant, and then
refitting it afterwards, apart from being illegal, might well provide your
insurance company with all the excuse it needs.

Don't worry . It will be a complying fitting. Total cost will be 6 cans of
beer, one replacement hacksaw blade, about $30 worth of extra materials (Xtra
tube, welding rods etc) and the cost of the powdercoating .

At the end of the day, the hassle of doing it wrong probably costs more than
ensuring it is done right.

The only hassle is trying to get some sense from the LTSA and the beauracratic
wallies that spend 37.5 hours a day there for the purpose of simply seeing how
many of the public they can confuse .

Just a thought from an old ex-copper

Once a copper ... LOL
Thanks for the reply Eric

Now let's see what one can do to make a hood cover .

Regards ,

--
Col

In a mausoleum colossol,
the explorers uncovered a fossil
that they could tell by the bend,
and the knob on the end,
'twas the peter of Paul the Apostle

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 6:37 pm

For what its worth, i get my car inspected at the "ON
ROAD" inspection places and theyve never asked any
questions about the bars.Once, an inspector gave them
a good wiggle to see how they were mounted and carried on the inspection.
It cost me $200 to have the bars polished and chromed
at the electroplaters in Hamilton,(cant think of the name right now.)
Glenn "SLYDIT"

Lou Girardin · Post by **Lou Girardin** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 8:38 pm

I've found that it pays to have a good relationship with your WOF tester.
They tend to be less pedantic.
Lou

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Stephen - I've been told they are not a contact motor. Obviously, you still should replace it ASAP - a freind just had his let go in an SR20 engine and it's cost him a heap of $$$. Done 128,000 k's and NOT thrashed.

Cheers - Mike

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