Race seat (on factory rails at least, not sure about other mounting methods) is fine for WOF, I think its the harness that is the issue.zippy2 wrote:Additionally, as far as I am aware you do not need an authority card if you only have the bar - however if you put in a race seat and 4, 5 or 6 point harness you will need the card to be able to get a WOF.
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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The application form has all the above plus competition seat/s as areas it covers.Keith Jones wrote:Authority cards cover:
Competition safety harness
Roll protection that extends forward of the front seating positions and/or modifications that effect the interior impact rule
Removal of an airbag SRS system
Braided hydraulic brake lines
Hydraulic handbrake
Plastic glazing.
my card has my seat on it. You may not need the card for the seat, however if you are getting a card then you can include the seat on it. For me having he seat listed on my authority card means I get no questions at WOF time. Between my Card and cert I have all the mods covered. I use the local VTNZ testing station and so having all the paper work done is great.
For those of you who do not know about authority cards - these are from Motor Sport NZ and you can only get one if you have a current competition license, as they are registered to a license holder. Each year you need to renew the card (which expires at the same time as your license) and have to provide the cars log book showing you have competed in at least two events in the preceding 12 months.
So if you are thinking of getting a card you will need to be active in motor sport to keep the card.
I was told these mods can't be covered by a low volume cert - however have never looked into that - Keith or someone else may actually know about that.
ps............
I have just arrived back in country and will look at getting those photos today of the bar mounts.
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SLYDIT I have uploaded a few more pics to my cardomain site (page 3).
the main bar hoop sits on the parcel shelf and has a plate underneath the shelf. the bar and has 3 bolts through this - without taking the shelf cover off I can only take the photos of the top side - sorry.
the back stays go into the trunk and sit on plates welded in on the top and bolted in on the bottom. there are again 3 bolts on these - the forth bolt you can see (the left most bolt) from the underside is actually just holding the plate in place.
This was a race car in Japan and had these welded plates and bolted plates in place for the old full cage back stays so we just used those. We used the parcel shelf mount with new plates as mounting to the floor was too far forward for my liking.
the main bar hoop sits on the parcel shelf and has a plate underneath the shelf. the bar and has 3 bolts through this - without taking the shelf cover off I can only take the photos of the top side - sorry.
the back stays go into the trunk and sit on plates welded in on the top and bolted in on the bottom. there are again 3 bolts on these - the forth bolt you can see (the left most bolt) from the underside is actually just holding the plate in place.
This was a race car in Japan and had these welded plates and bolted plates in place for the old full cage back stays so we just used those. We used the parcel shelf mount with new plates as mounting to the floor was too far forward for my liking.
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[quote="SLYDIT"]oh by the way you CANNOT use a harness with the standard mx5 seat.
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Well yes you can - sort of. I raced and rallied mine for a year with the std seats perfectly legally BUT I had to remove the head rest speakers and enlarge the holes so the belts went through. The shoulder straps on a racing harness have to be constrained through the seat which is why SLYDIT is basically correct.
However the seats were absolutely shocking. It took about 3 corners to realise I should have got proper seats but I still did 2 or 3 rallies before changing. They may be ok for spirited road driving but on a special stage they were horrible giving no lateral support at all. I found I was trying to jam myself into the seat with the left leg/foot and holding myself with the steering wheel! Not the way to drive on those supper stages around the back of Mt Taranaki.
quote]
Well yes you can - sort of. I raced and rallied mine for a year with the std seats perfectly legally BUT I had to remove the head rest speakers and enlarge the holes so the belts went through. The shoulder straps on a racing harness have to be constrained through the seat which is why SLYDIT is basically correct.
However the seats were absolutely shocking. It took about 3 corners to realise I should have got proper seats but I still did 2 or 3 rallies before changing. They may be ok for spirited road driving but on a special stage they were horrible giving no lateral support at all. I found I was trying to jam myself into the seat with the left leg/foot and holding myself with the steering wheel! Not the way to drive on those supper stages around the back of Mt Taranaki.
Last edited by MN on Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
cheers,
Mark
Mark
[quote="SLYDIT"]basically in NZ you can't get a bolt in cage approved by MANZ due to a few unique "features" of the mx5.....
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My full cage is half and half. The front section is bolted and removable. At the time mine was built I had the option of having the main hoop bolted in or welded in, I choose the latter but there are, or were, a couple of other MX5's in Wellington where it is bolted in.
My front section is removable so the car can be converted back to the wife's shopping car within 2.5 hours (wheels, seats, harness, front roll cage section) leaving just the main behind the seat hoop. The 2 back stays into the boot meant that the spare wheel bracket had to be moved slightly. But it is still usable.
One thing I have discovered is that if you want a full cage make sure the front legs are fitted to the floor pan ahead of the front of the door opening. This will give the full longitudinal strength and tighten up the car. Because I didn't want the dash cut into mine are mounted level with the front of the door opening and so on a roughish special stage you can hear the front hoop hitting the top of the windscreen surround as the floor pan flexes.
quote]
My full cage is half and half. The front section is bolted and removable. At the time mine was built I had the option of having the main hoop bolted in or welded in, I choose the latter but there are, or were, a couple of other MX5's in Wellington where it is bolted in.
My front section is removable so the car can be converted back to the wife's shopping car within 2.5 hours (wheels, seats, harness, front roll cage section) leaving just the main behind the seat hoop. The 2 back stays into the boot meant that the spare wheel bracket had to be moved slightly. But it is still usable.
One thing I have discovered is that if you want a full cage make sure the front legs are fitted to the floor pan ahead of the front of the door opening. This will give the full longitudinal strength and tighten up the car. Because I didn't want the dash cut into mine are mounted level with the front of the door opening and so on a roughish special stage you can hear the front hoop hitting the top of the windscreen surround as the floor pan flexes.
cheers,
Mark
Mark
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