Show us your turbo!! Fun post!
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Show us your turbo!! Fun post!
I have not seen many pics of peoples hard work and dollars spent on their turboed/ supercharged beasties! Or even just your favourite engine bay that makes you dribble!
Every proud owner out there please post some pics!
I will start.
Every proud owner out there please post some pics!
I will start.
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Re: Show us your turbo!! Fun post!
Were you influenced by dr seuss in any way in your construction?Habanero666 wrote:I will start.
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MX5 Factory Turbo Engine bay
Well it's totally stock, but for what it's worth here's some pics of my new baby
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Not mine ,But a good customer,Lotus 7 replica with MX5 Turbo...280 WHP and 600kg all up !!
Last edited by mazline on Fri Sep 25, 2009 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Here to help with any needs for your beloved MX5/Roadster.
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Always depends on how big your wallet is Depending on how much power you get,I think he told me spent near enough to 10k to get that far,Most of it is high end stuff and hand built ,Custom pistons/Turbo Computer etc etc.
You know the usual story,What you think your car makes and actually having to spend a couple of hundred to find out on the Dyno for real what it does make is a different story.
Many motors have melted down finding out.
The other thing to remember ,his car IS 280WHP AND just 600kg all up ,So what would the power to weight ratio be ??.
Who out there is clever enough to work that out?
You know the usual story,What you think your car makes and actually having to spend a couple of hundred to find out on the Dyno for real what it does make is a different story.
Many motors have melted down finding out.
The other thing to remember ,his car IS 280WHP AND just 600kg all up ,So what would the power to weight ratio be ??.
Who out there is clever enough to work that out?
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.
Hmm I would work out power to weight to be 0.4666:1 , not bad at all, nope very impressive indeed.
Anyway then there is the issue of traction...... the skyline may have 600hp but they are usually weighty Behemoths so that would leave traction as the hidden factor here, you could have asked Peter Brock but.....
I see you can win a dyno power run on trade me for 115 NZD but it is in Foxton, not far from Palmy North.
I agree, you can hear some "side splittingly funny" predictions of power, but we all have to bare in mind that an unbuilt bottom end will only handle 250hp SAE (at the flywheel), so a well prep'ed one will be safe up to 320hp within a fart in the pool, and then you can have the concrete filled block with billet main bearing caps with yada yada yada $ $ $ so yep anything is possible
Anyway then there is the issue of traction...... the skyline may have 600hp but they are usually weighty Behemoths so that would leave traction as the hidden factor here, you could have asked Peter Brock but.....
I see you can win a dyno power run on trade me for 115 NZD but it is in Foxton, not far from Palmy North.
I agree, you can hear some "side splittingly funny" predictions of power, but we all have to bare in mind that an unbuilt bottom end will only handle 250hp SAE (at the flywheel), so a well prep'ed one will be safe up to 320hp within a fart in the pool, and then you can have the concrete filled block with billet main bearing caps with yada yada yada $ $ $ so yep anything is possible
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Re: .
Interesting, is that an NA or NB? I recall reading the NB had a bigger crank and possibly rods, thus I was assuming much stronger. Am I on the right path? Also if you are getting say 200RWHP what would be likely to be seeing at the flywheel?Habanero666 wrote:...an unbuilt bottom end will only handle 250hp SAE (at the flywheel), so a well prep'ed one will be safe up to 320hp ...
What would most likley fail if you push the power too far (assuming motor tune was good)?
Another thing worthy of adding to the mix is to consider if it's power in the right place. Like the 500HP MX5 discussed on the forum recently, nothing at all down low and then a huge kick in the pants. So power isn't everything, torque at 3k rpm is probably more useful for most people like a T25 setup, but if you are on the track then I’d guess tons of power at 6k rpm be the winning ticket. Thoughts my peers?
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Re: .
The 1.6 had a superseded big nose crank after mid 1991 from 22mm up to 27 to address the associated issues with breakage. The Rods are the same length for the B6 and Bp 133mm.The BP crank is longer shares the same bearings and the mazda GTR crank is forged steel.
I personally have gone with shot peened B6T conrods from a '89 323 turbo which weigh 580gms a piece and has stronger fastners, compared to 540gms for the standard twizzle stick conrods that are the replacement part from Mazda, and are in all but the swapped out custom engines. Th e Picture below will show you what I mean.( hopefully I won't get assassinated for letting that secret out?)
I believe the BP is a stretched version of the B6 to allow for a bigger bore diameter.
I will receive a bit of flak for this but here goes,
You will probably have 225-230 Hp at the flywheel if you put 200hp to the wheels (but all engine, clutch, transmission combos will yield different results give or take 5 hp).
If you consider that losses attriuted to friction=heat energy loss as the governing factor of power loss pull a thermometer out of yo butt and pop it in the tranny fluid when you are spinning the vehicle up on the dyno...and see the rise in temperature .Mechanical losses are not huge.
Besides the these mechanical losses are non linear and can not account for the massive corrections I have seen spat out of someones $$ making dyno skam calculators! " Oh you have to get this done or that done if you want this power " type scene.
I have heard of a power quoted 450whp 4wd familia from a number of trusted witnesses and can attest to seeing this thing doing Helicopter burnouts! in front of a few hundred gob smacked people.
Max power on a standard B6 block with very precise tuning: global answer= 250hp at flywheel anything more is walking a thin line( to quote too many people). The BP I have been told by a breathing living tuner, will handle up to 280 flywheel Hp and again with careful tuning.
The difference in terms of tuning advantage would be the increased torque, potential for top end power and better engine airflow of the 1.8 also the fact that there are alot more AEM parts to get things hotted!
The choice is yours and the wifes in most cases!
I personally have gone with shot peened B6T conrods from a '89 323 turbo which weigh 580gms a piece and has stronger fastners, compared to 540gms for the standard twizzle stick conrods that are the replacement part from Mazda, and are in all but the swapped out custom engines. Th e Picture below will show you what I mean.( hopefully I won't get assassinated for letting that secret out?)
I believe the BP is a stretched version of the B6 to allow for a bigger bore diameter.
I will receive a bit of flak for this but here goes,
You will probably have 225-230 Hp at the flywheel if you put 200hp to the wheels (but all engine, clutch, transmission combos will yield different results give or take 5 hp).
If you consider that losses attriuted to friction=heat energy loss as the governing factor of power loss pull a thermometer out of yo butt and pop it in the tranny fluid when you are spinning the vehicle up on the dyno...and see the rise in temperature .Mechanical losses are not huge.
Besides the these mechanical losses are non linear and can not account for the massive corrections I have seen spat out of someones $$ making dyno skam calculators! " Oh you have to get this done or that done if you want this power " type scene.
I have heard of a power quoted 450whp 4wd familia from a number of trusted witnesses and can attest to seeing this thing doing Helicopter burnouts! in front of a few hundred gob smacked people.
Max power on a standard B6 block with very precise tuning: global answer= 250hp at flywheel anything more is walking a thin line( to quote too many people). The BP I have been told by a breathing living tuner, will handle up to 280 flywheel Hp and again with careful tuning.
The difference in terms of tuning advantage would be the increased torque, potential for top end power and better engine airflow of the 1.8 also the fact that there are alot more AEM parts to get things hotted!
The choice is yours and the wifes in most cases!
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Show us your turbo!! Fun post!
yeah, what Habanero666 said...
the rods generally let go first, more so in NB's. Even tho the dimensions and pretty much everything look the same as an NA conrod they're weaker... the latest favourite rumour was different metallurgy.
way back in the day, they actually threw a B6 (?) engine on an engine dyno (its in one of the early Miata Magazines) and measured the drivetrain losses at 26hp at redline, so this seems a reasonable number to add on to whatever rear-wheel hp figure you have .
hey poison - what does that g-meter thingy tell you ? It can do hp estimates, right .. :]
Here's what Ray Ayala (MiataLink software writer) said about knock and dead engines:
cc Miata Power List <miatapower@miatapower.net (miatapower@miatapower.net)>
date 7 April 2007 02:47
subject Re: What could have killed my engine? (LONG)
mailing list <miatapower.miatapower.net> Filter messages from this mailing list
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hide details 07/04/2007
It does show up in datalogs as a noise small enough to be confused with valve train noise, except that it's envelope is rather impulsive in shape while valve train noise is more continuous. In a stock-CR M2 motor it usually starts to show up around 5-8 psi (depending on ign adv) with west coast fuel and can be destructive in a very short time.
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Koch
- Hide quoted text -
To: Ray
Cc: Miata Power List
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: What could have killed my engine? (LONG)
Ray wrote:
up for? Or something else?
I wasn't aware that knock was a serious problem running Premium and only
5psi boost.
[Posted via external email]
the rods generally let go first, more so in NB's. Even tho the dimensions and pretty much everything look the same as an NA conrod they're weaker... the latest favourite rumour was different metallurgy.
way back in the day, they actually threw a B6 (?) engine on an engine dyno (its in one of the early Miata Magazines) and measured the drivetrain losses at 26hp at redline, so this seems a reasonable number to add on to whatever rear-wheel hp figure you have .
hey poison - what does that g-meter thingy tell you ? It can do hp estimates, right .. :]
Here's what Ray Ayala (MiataLink software writer) said about knock and dead engines:
cc Miata Power List <miatapower@miatapower.net (miatapower@miatapower.net)>
date 7 April 2007 02:47
subject Re: What could have killed my engine? (LONG)
mailing list <miatapower.miatapower.net> Filter messages from this mailing list
Signed by gmail.com
unsubscribe Unsubscribe from this mailing list
hide details 07/04/2007
It does show up in datalogs as a noise small enough to be confused with valve train noise, except that it's envelope is rather impulsive in shape while valve train noise is more continuous. In a stock-CR M2 motor it usually starts to show up around 5-8 psi (depending on ign adv) with west coast fuel and can be destructive in a very short time.
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Koch
- Hide quoted text -
To: Ray
Cc: Miata Power List
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: What could have killed my engine? (LONG)
Ray wrote:
Silent knock - as in knock that the knock sensor can't detect and makeMost likely, yes, but the other strong possibility is the problem began
with bending rods ... caused by the infamous "silent knock" phenomenon.
up for? Or something else?
I wasn't aware that knock was a serious problem running Premium and only
5psi boost.
[Posted via external email]
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Show us your turbo!! Fun post!
Hey jif
Yup I have a g-tech pro. You program in the car weight and it does hp
over a 0-100k run. You can upload to a pc You're welcome to borrow
it. Call me. My iPhone has a similar software package, I must
compare them sometime.
[Posted via external email]
Yup I have a g-tech pro. You program in the car weight and it does hp
over a 0-100k run. You can upload to a pc You're welcome to borrow
it. Call me. My iPhone has a similar software package, I must
compare them sometime.
[Posted via external email]
Gazda in the white HOT Mazda
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1.6L Custom mx5
Still in the build not long now i hope. i bit hard to finish now that im a dad but she is slowly geting there.
1993 1.6L turbo + nitruos
1993 1.6L turbo + nitruos
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