yee haa turbo has arrived!!!

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 3:13 pm

my email is coleandkate@gmail.com

i found this in another link manual i have
it does use the 2j pin same as flyin miata

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 3:29 pm

didnt do the picture ill try again
bugger they just say to run a new wire there

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:25 pm

all tuned runs very smooth throughout the rev range
pretty happy with it

dynofiend · Post by **dynofiend** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:18 pm

Great result that, odd torque spike though. Dont know much about turbos, but it looks like the boost really winds up at about 4500 and then cuts at 5000rpm. Guess if it runs right thats all that matters.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:23 pm

something wierd with the ecu it keeps pulling spark just after 5000 its like knock controll is doing it but even with knock controll off the ceu still pulls back the numbers we put in bob reacons he could get more out of it with a newer model ecu

she was blowing copious amounts of black smoke on the first couple of runs no smoke at all now
it used to lean out when entering boost then get crazy rich, the afr is alot better now

dynofiend · Post by **dynofiend** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:54 pm

Try a different spark plug? I understand turbos put different requirements on spark plugs and require different gaps, coldness etc?

If the ECU is pulling the spark, something is telling it to do it, and there arent many sensors that can do this other than knock or the rev limit are there? Makes me think its not the ECU stopping the spark but something in the ignition system itself.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:07 pm

we did afew runs with the old plugs then put some new bkr7 colder heatrange plugs in for the rest of the session

it doesnt matter what numbers we put into the ignition zones it just kept pulling them back to 0* after the run

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 8:31 am

Retarded ignition timing = black smoke

Question: What is the CAUSE of ignition timing reduction?

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 10:43 am

thats a good question

the smoke on the first few runs was way too much fuel an probably very retarded
by the end there wasnt any at all

dynofiend · Post by **dynofiend** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 7:39 pm

Habanero666 wrote:Question: What is the CAUSE of ignition timing reduction?

Is that rethorical? If not, then the only thing I can think of is the knock sensor or just the engine timed wrongly!

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:35 pm

Well it wouldn't be the knock sensor, as Cole has stated that timing is pulled with the knock correction function switched off.Could however be a wiring fault.

HAR HAR at a stab I would say the Soft rev limit!

Knock timing reduction will pull off degrees of timing, not reduce all timing to zero.

Also good point dynofiend, could be that timing at the CAS is incorrect or the cam driving it.

NEED MORE INFO COLE

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 10:16 pm

we checked base timing before setting it up on the dyno the cams were set at the factory position

limiter was set at 7200 so soft limit should come in about 7000 not 5200

we put numbers like 11 in and the knock controll should only pull 6 so i dont know where the other 5 went
i think i might start saving for a G4 miatalink slowly
is there anyone on here who has tried one yet?

possibly a cpu fault?

i might try changing to the chip i got from you andput my numbers into that

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:47 am

I'm using an older Link LEM V5 and have had no problems with it although I am not running a turbo. It came with default maps that got me going and then Gavin at High Velocity tuned it properly for me. I have had to call link a couple of times, mainly to do with the triggering from the CAS but it was nothing serious.

There are a couple of limitations with the LEM which I found after I had bought it but most of these would be addressed in the G3 or G4. These are mainly to do with the number of sensor inputs and drivers.

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 2:00 pm

It all appears unusual, as I have the FM link version 1 (older than Coles) and it is a good piece of kit. Currently running 16psi manifold pressure @ 3000 rpm up to red line. Anything more and the power to chassis tuning balance is all out of kilter and the sports car becomes the skid pad mule.

I have achieved this with Link/ FM map, air temp sensors The rest are OEM or Bosch equivalent.

The knock sensor I use is from a series 5 RX7 running through a cocklink display only. It would require the version 2 map sensor to run knock function with this ecu.

I would have however, chosen to modify the ecu circuit board for both the air temp and WBO2 sensor. The air temp sensor has proven to be sufficient.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 7:24 pm

did you use the air temp sensor with your link chip or did you modify it for the FM chip? mine had the wb02 mod done so i had to solder the two pins back together

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:41 pm

I used the Flyin Miata air temp sensor with the latest chip update from them. (Thanks Gazza

)

Yeah I know how simple the 2nd generation FM links are to modify.....

...... would be nice.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:09 pm

old thread i know but i think i have fixed the timing issue
i had abit of spare time this arvo for some poking around in the engine
there was a broken bolt in the starter motor bracket so have taken that out and replaced it
the bracket is right next to the sensor so may have been vibrating at certain loads/revs
ive put some numbers into the ign zones that were affected and they are still there

went for a hard boost and only recorded one knock in about half an hours hard driving
still not sure why it was taking timing out without knock controll on
would like to do a power run on a dyno to see how she goes now that i have some real power above 5500
HUGE difference

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:01 pm

I know I am a front hauler now , but what postion did you mount the kock sensor in?

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:52 am

intake side according to FMs instructions

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:43 am

SET KNK= 35 AND YOU SHOULD BE IN THE BALL PARK.

TO DISABLE KNOCK SENSOR SET THE VAUE TO 255.

Also what software version are you running as there has been some reported bugs with the earlier versions. To find this press both edit keys in the RPM screen.

I would say though you have fixed the problem with that rattle. If you used the value of 255 in the KNK screen it will be switched off and not making any adjustments to the ignition curve, simply leaving it on the default or setting it to ZERO is not switching it off.

You probably know this, but sometimes things get missed.

Hope it works out anyway

Jim

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:58 pm

im still running the link chip in it at the moment
still havent had time to mount the air temp sensor for the FM chip and cant make time to go out and tune it
ill wait till i get a wb02 before i do the fm chip

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 1:10 pm

Ahhh, makes sense.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:54 pm

that dyno curve is a classic mx5 turbo line. There seems to be some sweet spots in the efficincy of the engine (or a couple of holes depending on how you look at it) that require a fair bit of fiddling to cure.

On my car it required a heap of fuel adjustments to flatten out the curves. the timing was fairly consistent as we just kept advancing the timing until we weren't seeing any real gains in HP from just timing changes.

yee haa turbo has arrived!!!

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