yee haa turbo has arrived!!!
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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Hi there
You could try the BP flywheel with the larger clutch? If you are going over 310 whp you should think about an expensive clutch but otherwise A single plate with an HD ( 530KGF/M) will do. Up to you, A bigger flywheel means slower throttle response due to inertia caused by a higher rotational mass.
Let me know and I can help.
Let me know and I can help.
Tires aren't cheap!
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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.
Wow that was quick..... you do spend too much time on that car!
The usual cause of slippage is the pressure plate having a low clamping pressure, or a low quality friction material on the disc ( aside from contamination, over heating). You should see it today or Saturday, I think you will like the new set up, it rocks!
I had to laugh at my friend who put a button clutch and up-rated pressure plate kit in his street car (bad combination for street) which was a twin turbo mitsi GTO V6. He rang me up and asked me to come check a problem with the set up. It was a mean set up ha ha, but was more like a one tonne " OFF/ON" switch!
Let me know how it all goes, and make sure not to use anti-seize compound on the spline or release bearing surface, just a thin smear of grease, so it doesn't get all spun out everywhere
The usual cause of slippage is the pressure plate having a low clamping pressure, or a low quality friction material on the disc ( aside from contamination, over heating). You should see it today or Saturday, I think you will like the new set up, it rocks!
I had to laugh at my friend who put a button clutch and up-rated pressure plate kit in his street car (bad combination for street) which was a twin turbo mitsi GTO V6. He rang me up and asked me to come check a problem with the set up. It was a mean set up ha ha, but was more like a one tonne " OFF/ON" switch!
Let me know how it all goes, and make sure not to use anti-seize compound on the spline or release bearing surface, just a thin smear of grease, so it doesn't get all spun out everywhere
Tires aren't cheap!
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clutch arrived today cheers, will be in tomorrow morning.
no mucking around here
actually the boss gives me too much shit for having my car on the hoist all the time so wanna get it done asap
this car will mainly be driven on the street usually in traffic so dont want to get all crazy on the clutch.
got them to take abit off the flywheel while it was getting machined (not too much though) box of beers worth.
i dont think my gearbox will last much longer hope ill find a 6spd arround somewhere when i need it
see how it goes
cole
no mucking around here
actually the boss gives me too much shit for having my car on the hoist all the time so wanna get it done asap
this car will mainly be driven on the street usually in traffic so dont want to get all crazy on the clutch.
got them to take abit off the flywheel while it was getting machined (not too much though) box of beers worth.
i dont think my gearbox will last much longer hope ill find a 6spd arround somewhere when i need it
see how it goes
cole
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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yee haa turbo has arrived!!!
Having had an NA and NB I like the 5 speed better. I find it too easy to
throw it into the wrong gear on the 6 speed, usually on change down for
corners . That said it's only my weekend car and if a daily driver I'm
sure it would be fine as you'd get used to it.
[Posted via external email]
throw it into the wrong gear on the 6 speed, usually on change down for
corners . That said it's only my weekend car and if a daily driver I'm
sure it would be fine as you'd get used to it.
[Posted via external email]
Gazda in the white HOT Mazda
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I was always told not to go overboard with clutch assemblies etc if you intend to drive it hard.
That way the clutch becomes the weak point if anything were to break. And it's cheaper to replace a clutch than a gearbox or diff.
And if you can machine up a clutch alignment tool closer to the bearing tolerences etc than use the cheap plastic ones that would save you so much hassle when aligning the gearbox onto the back of the block.
I still have mine somewhere if you need it.
That way the clutch becomes the weak point if anything were to break. And it's cheaper to replace a clutch than a gearbox or diff.
And if you can machine up a clutch alignment tool closer to the bearing tolerences etc than use the cheap plastic ones that would save you so much hassle when aligning the gearbox onto the back of the block.
I still have mine somewhere if you need it.
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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i found out 12psi is way faster than 6
i was sick of the wastegate actuator hitting the bonnet when i went round a left hand corner under boost so i replaced it with another one from another turbo i had lying arround.
i didnt realise it was 12psi until i was driving home.
i guess that will save me having to buy a boost controller now as this is exactly what i wanted to run
i really do need to tune it now and put my new injectors in that might be a job for this week i guess
cole
i was sick of the wastegate actuator hitting the bonnet when i went round a left hand corner under boost so i replaced it with another one from another turbo i had lying arround.
i didnt realise it was 12psi until i was driving home.
i guess that will save me having to buy a boost controller now as this is exactly what i wanted to run
i really do need to tune it now and put my new injectors in that might be a job for this week i guess
cole
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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Oh Hell!
Sorry jokes aside Cole,
I really really recommend that you put the knock sensor on the inlet manifold side and atleast next to the cylinder bores, or some where there abouts on the block.
There are ample unused threads just above the engine mount there.
I really really recommend that you put the knock sensor on the inlet manifold side and atleast next to the cylinder bores, or some where there abouts on the block.
There are ample unused threads just above the engine mount there.
Tires aren't cheap!
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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Found it.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instr ... lation.pdf
Page 15 knock sensor installation.
Hope this helps.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instr ... lation.pdf
Page 15 knock sensor installation.
Hope this helps.
Tires aren't cheap!
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yeah i have that manual i will change it over when i get a chance i only had a 7/16 spanner to do the 14mm bolt so didnt want to use that to tighten an engine mount bolt also the way i have it is in the block in one of the old a/c pump holes whats the difference between inlet and exhaust side? doesnt it just listen to the block as a whole
also just to clarify are the fm install instructions correct for the genuine link chip for the knock sensor with reguard to the wiring changes?
i had to rewire the map sensor as i could only get a 1.8 version
also just to clarify are the fm install instructions correct for the genuine link chip for the knock sensor with reguard to the wiring changes?
i had to rewire the map sensor as i could only get a 1.8 version
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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whats the difference between inlet and exhaust side? doesnt it just listen to the block as a whole
A:The whip side of piston travel is on the exhaust side, as the piston changes direction <- ^ ->)) and travels down the cylinder wall under pressure on the power phase.
It is very "noisey" on this side under normal operation.... BUT the whole purpose of the knock sensor is to detect preignition or detonation which happens on the upwards travel of the piston as it reaches ((<-TDC during the compression phase.It occurs on the Inlet side of this motor.
When the piston is at BDC it too changes direction <- But the inertial load and lateral shift of the piston at this point is less noisey and severe as the piston starts on the exhaust phase with very little resistance.
Hope that sorts it for you.
also just to clarify are the fm install instructions correct for the genuine link chip for the knock sensor with reguard to the wiring changes?
No it is specific to flyin miata if unchanged.
i had to rewire the map sensor as i could only get a 1.8 version[/quote]
( can o worms sorry )[/b]
A:The whip side of piston travel is on the exhaust side, as the piston changes direction <- ^ ->)) and travels down the cylinder wall under pressure on the power phase.
It is very "noisey" on this side under normal operation.... BUT the whole purpose of the knock sensor is to detect preignition or detonation which happens on the upwards travel of the piston as it reaches ((<-TDC during the compression phase.It occurs on the Inlet side of this motor.
When the piston is at BDC it too changes direction <- But the inertial load and lateral shift of the piston at this point is less noisey and severe as the piston starts on the exhaust phase with very little resistance.
Hope that sorts it for you.
also just to clarify are the fm install instructions correct for the genuine link chip for the knock sensor with reguard to the wiring changes?
No it is specific to flyin miata if unchanged.
i had to rewire the map sensor as i could only get a 1.8 version[/quote]
( can o worms sorry )[/b]
Tires aren't cheap!
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- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
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i guess that makes sense
as far as i know the knock sensor output on the map sensor box was a secondary ground for the afm. you wouldnt happen to know the ecu pin that the knock sensor uses by chance?
i almost think i should have wired in a g3 from the start
i cant find anything on the nonFM miatalink even linknz dont know much about it anymore
as far as i know the knock sensor output on the map sensor box was a secondary ground for the afm. you wouldnt happen to know the ecu pin that the knock sensor uses by chance?
i almost think i should have wired in a g3 from the start
i cant find anything on the nonFM miatalink even linknz dont know much about it anymore
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- I count 5-s in my sleep
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