yee haa turbo has arrived!!!

Discussions relating to Turbochargers, Superchargers, Induction, Engine Mods, Exhaust Mods, and other items specifically to make your MX5 or Roadster put out more power.

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Euen
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Post by Euen » Fri May 01, 2009 7:17 pm

You could try an 1800 flywheel, it should fit and has a bigger contact area to the 1600 although it is not something that I have heard of people having problems with.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Fri May 01, 2009 7:45 pm

thats what i was thinking go for a 1.8 flywheel then use a hd clutch on the back of that should help me out abit

Habanero666
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Hi there

Post by Habanero666 » Fri May 01, 2009 7:46 pm

You could try the BP flywheel with the larger clutch? If you are going over 310 whp you should think about an expensive clutch but otherwise A single plate with an HD ( 530KGF/M) will do. Up to you, A bigger flywheel means slower throttle response due to inertia caused by a higher rotational mass.

Let me know and I can help.
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sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Fri May 08, 2009 7:20 am

wipped the box off last night found the old clutch was less than half worn guess ill keep it for if i get another one that needs a clutch maby
hopefully the new clutch turns up today and ill be back in business

Habanero666
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Post by Habanero666 » Fri May 08, 2009 8:09 am

Wow that was quick..... you do spend too much time on that car! :D

The usual cause of slippage is the pressure plate having a low clamping pressure, or a low quality friction material on the disc ( aside from contamination, over heating). You should see it today or Saturday, I think you will like the new set up, it rocks!

I had to laugh at my friend who put a button clutch and up-rated pressure plate kit in his street car (bad combination for street) which was a twin turbo mitsi GTO V6. He rang me up and asked me to come check a problem with the set up. It was a mean set up :twisted: ha ha, but was more like a one tonne " OFF/ON" switch!

Let me know how it all goes, and make sure not to use anti-seize compound on the spline or release bearing surface, just a thin smear of grease, so it doesn't get all spun out everywhere :wink:
Tires aren't cheap!

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Fri May 08, 2009 7:23 pm

clutch arrived today cheers, will be in tomorrow morning.
no mucking around here
actually the boss gives me too much shit for having my car on the hoist all the time so wanna get it done asap

this car will mainly be driven on the street usually in traffic so dont want to get all crazy on the clutch.
got them to take abit off the flywheel while it was getting machined (not too much though) box of beers worth.
i dont think my gearbox will last much longer hope ill find a 6spd arround somewhere when i need it
see how it goes

cole

Habanero666
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.

Post by Habanero666 » Fri May 08, 2009 8:09 pm

Ahhh yes, the 1.6 gearbox!!! R.I.P number 1 and 2! God rest their souls! :twisted:
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sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Sun May 10, 2009 7:41 am

yeah there was afew small chunks of gears on the drain plug when i drained the box

Euen
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Post by Euen » Sun May 10, 2009 12:43 pm

There was someone advertising a 6 speed on Trade me a few weeks ago but wanted about a grand for it.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Sun May 10, 2009 1:03 pm

yeah saw that will se how i get on with this one for now
i think i have spent enough on it for this month

2low2c
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Post by 2low2c » Sun May 10, 2009 8:44 pm

if you use a 6 speed gearbox you have to use the diff as well

poison
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yee haa turbo has arrived!!!

Post by poison » Sun May 10, 2009 9:12 pm

Having had an NA and NB I like the 5 speed better. I find it too easy to
throw it into the wrong gear on the 6 speed, usually on change down for
corners :( . That said it's only my weekend car and if a daily driver I'm
sure it would be fine as you'd get used to it.

[Posted via external email]
:twisted: Gazda in the white HOT Mazda :twisted:

Growler
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Post by Growler » Mon May 11, 2009 11:19 am

I was always told not to go overboard with clutch assemblies etc if you intend to drive it hard.
That way the clutch becomes the weak point if anything were to break. And it's cheaper to replace a clutch than a gearbox or diff.

And if you can machine up a clutch alignment tool closer to the bearing tolerences etc than use the cheap plastic ones that would save you so much hassle when aligning the gearbox onto the back of the block.
I still have mine somewhere if you need it.

WideOpenThrottle
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon May 11, 2009 4:46 pm

Who needs a tool! i have done two clutches just by eyeometer & a ruler-ya pussies!
1989 NA 1650
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
Surfboard
Push-bike
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Habanero666
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Hahaha

Post by Habanero666 » Mon May 11, 2009 5:50 pm

Wideopenthrottle!!! now, now! not everyone here is bionic dude! :D
Tires aren't cheap!

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Mon May 11, 2009 6:05 pm

i used the eyecrometer method and it worked well probably easier that i did it on a hoist and not groveling on the ground

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:12 pm

i found out 12psi is way faster than 6

i was sick of the wastegate actuator hitting the bonnet when i went round a left hand corner under boost so i replaced it with another one from another turbo i had lying arround.
i didnt realise it was 12psi until i was driving home.
i guess that will save me having to buy a boost controller now as this is exactly what i wanted to run
i really do need to tune it now and put my new injectors in that might be a job for this week i guess

cole

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:31 pm

my pretty pink injectors are in now and knock sensor is finally fitted
cheers 2low2c for the advice on the spacers took about 1mm off
Attachments
injectors.JPG
knock sensor (2).JPG

Habanero666
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Post by Habanero666 » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:04 pm

Now that there, is some serious delicious strawberry scented injectors right there :lol:
Tires aren't cheap!

Habanero666
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Oh Hell!

Post by Habanero666 » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:10 pm

Sorry jokes aside Cole,

I really really recommend that you put the knock sensor on the inlet manifold side and atleast next to the cylinder bores, or some where there abouts on the block.

There are ample unused threads just above the engine mount there.
:wink:
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Habanero666
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Post by Habanero666 » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:21 pm

Found it.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instr ... lation.pdf

Page 15 knock sensor installation.

Hope this helps.
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sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:41 pm

yeah i have that manual i will change it over when i get a chance i only had a 7/16 spanner to do the 14mm bolt so didnt want to use that to tighten an engine mount bolt also the way i have it is in the block in one of the old a/c pump holes whats the difference between inlet and exhaust side? doesnt it just listen to the block as a whole

also just to clarify are the fm install instructions correct for the genuine link chip for the knock sensor with reguard to the wiring changes?

i had to rewire the map sensor as i could only get a 1.8 version

Habanero666
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Post by Habanero666 » Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:52 pm

whats the difference between inlet and exhaust side? doesnt it just listen to the block as a whole

A:The whip side of piston travel is on the exhaust side, as the piston changes direction <- ^ ->)) and travels down the cylinder wall under pressure on the power phase.

It is very "noisey" on this side under normal operation.... BUT the whole purpose of the knock sensor is to detect preignition or detonation which happens on the upwards travel of the piston as it reaches ((<-TDC during the compression phase.It occurs on the Inlet side of this motor.

When the piston is at BDC it too changes direction <- But the inertial load and lateral shift of the piston at this point is less noisey and severe as the piston starts on the exhaust phase with very little resistance.

Hope that sorts it for you.




also just to clarify are the fm install instructions correct for the genuine link chip for the knock sensor with reguard to the wiring changes?

No it is specific to flyin miata if unchanged.

i had to rewire the map sensor as i could only get a 1.8 version[/quote]

( can o worms sorry )[/b]
Tires aren't cheap!

sprsta
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Post by sprsta » Tue Jun 30, 2009 11:02 pm

i guess that makes sense

as far as i know the knock sensor output on the map sensor box was a secondary ground for the afm. you wouldnt happen to know the ecu pin that the knock sensor uses by chance?
i almost think i should have wired in a g3 from the start
i cant find anything on the nonFM miatalink even linknz dont know much about it anymore

Habanero666
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Post by Habanero666 » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:03 am

I have scanned off the wiring diagram for you man. Just ask if you want a copy. Pm the email address.
Tires aren't cheap!

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