Bolt-on Turbo Kits - How Easy to install

scooter · Post by **scooter** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:04 pm

I know I said I probably wouldn't go down the turbo road at the moment, but I have seen a new GReddy bolt on turbo kit for the na6ce b6 (I think that is mine) for under $2700. My question is: when they say bolt on, is it that simple, can someone mechanically challenged like me actually bolt it on, or does it require some fabrication.
If it is a simple install I could be tempted

it comes with the following:

1x TDO4H 15G-8.5CM2 P380 TURBO
1X CAST MANIFOLD
1XFUEL ENRICHMENT
1XAIRINEX FILTER
ALL OIL LINES ECT

Many thanks

2low2c · Post by **2low2c** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:35 pm

The Trust Turbo kit is not hard to instal,but there is on intercooler and the exhast needs to be modified ,emanage needs to be tuned.
With out an intercooler you can run 8psi but only for shrot periods ie 30 seconds at a time.
In my opinion you need to spend about 4 to 5 grand for a reliable set up.

Psycho_Dad · Post by **Psycho_Dad** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 7:10 am

on that note can we just assume that intercoolers are going to be needed to be fitted on turbo mx5's? i mean their isnt a wrx, evo, skyline, silvia, rx7, or even a sc mr2 without one

they just go with turbo cars, and they are cheap additional hp

cant believe the kit doesnt come with it, its retarded

PEace
PSycho_Dad

Habanero666 · Post by **Habanero666** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 2:22 pm

The dark side is a place you will go and never look back!

If you decide to order this kit, make sure the enrichment device you get is the FMU and not the shizit "blackbox" that makes the car run pig rich like it's on cold start enrichment type air/fuel mixtures all the time!

The part number

If it doesn't come with one, I can sell you an FMU.

The Fuel Metering Unit is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, this will allow the boost to be adjusted. The "blackbox" and boost increase will be an uncalculated risk!

So.... long story short , if you are looking at tunability go for the fmu option.

And yes, This kit is great for a jump up in power, it is also really easy to install and set up.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 9:00 pm

just so you know, the stock greddy kit is pretty crap..

basically you are buying a turbo and manifold and evreything else you may as well throw away. The manifold studs are crap and break, the oil lines are rubbish and need to be replaced and the air filter is rubbish too and tends to have its bolts come loose and get sucked in to the turbo.

the little black box that does the fuelling isnt up to the job and i wouldnt trust my engine on it thats for sure.(ESPECIALLY IF I WAS GOING RACING)..

for $2700 i would ring up AVO australia and ask how much for a manifold/turbo/dump pipe package then go from there with oil lines etc

At the end of the day your gonna have to admit that $3K isnt enough to do a turbo if you arent mechanically minded and a budget of around $5K is going to be more apropriate for better gear that will require less long term maintenance/repairs.

i think an avo turbo/manifold paired with a Fuel pressure regulator is going to be the cheapest package for your needs.then upgrade your fuel manage ment as funds allow.

scooter · Post by **scooter** » Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:42 pm

Thanks guys. I will not buy this bolt on turbo. Already gained 4 seconds with new tyres. I truly believe I will have more fun chasing extra seconds with it remaining naturally aspirated. I really do appreciate everyone's input. Keep up the good work, this is definitely one of the most helpful forums that I have experienced.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:51 pm

shame you wont be joining the dark side

if you want to stay NA then seriuosly look at an NB 1800 motor and a megasquirt ecu.you should be able to set that up for less than 1500-2000 for a good jump in power.

fiatracer · Post by **fiatracer** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:21 am

I'd like to chime in here as someone who bought the Greddy kit, and has spent the last 18 months sorting it . guess what - all that's left is the turbo itself, the rest has been thrown away. What a complete and utter pile of shit. OK, we have done the IC and emanage stuff too, but the basic Greddy manifold isn't even worth putting on your car, its bolts will come loose within hours and then break, the manifold will crack and/or warp within months. We gave up and got a new manifold made by Sinco customs in Hamilton, which has been perfect and actually gave us around 15bhp gain [admittedly, not on same dyno, but the improvement was immediately VERY obvious driving the car]. If you decide to try the kit, just be aware that the price of entry is just the start - you could spend the same again sorting it and making small improvements to how it all works.

poison · Post by **poison** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 9:47 am

Most people here who bought MX5’s turbo’d in Japan have the Greddy cast manifold, and I know of a few that have gone for a few years with no problems, mine included. There have been a few posts in the US from people with cracking issues, but it’s still a minority compared to the number they sell.

How much was a custom manifold by the way? Is it stainless or cast? I think the biggest issue on a turbo install is the exhaust down pipe. And for sure the I/C is a biggie too.

On this subject though, I have just had my turbo off for checking, and found the oil return pipe had gone brittle and cracked. It’s a ¾”ID pipe. Has anyone got a hose type recommendation (and place to buy). I bought some braded hose but the inner was about 2mm too big and it’s so solid I can’t clamp it tight enough.

fiatracer · Post by **fiatracer** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:13 am

the manifold is actually I think what they call steam tube. Stainless looks pretty but breaks. It's a real work of art, and was from memory $750. The performance improvement alone was worth the cost, but no surprise when you compare the port paths of the new one with the Greddy one where the turbo blows the gasses onto a flat surface almost, and they then have to kind of scatter across to the 4 intake runners. I would recommend to anyone who does strike problems witht he Greddy cast unit to not bother paying for repairs [we did the fly cuts, machined all faces, drilled bigger holes, etc etc], just take the step to a decent piece of kit.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 2:06 pm

poison. i use GOODYEAR hose. its the blue high temp oil stuff. no idea about model or part #. you can get it from places like aeroquip pirtek etc

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 1:35 pm

Hi Gary

The link below relates to vacuum hose but some of the same principles apply. Another similar comparison I have seen also came out in favour of Viton for oil hoses. I can't find the link for that one at the moment but will have a look at home later.

http://www.turborx7.com/Media/hosedebate.pdf

I managed to find some Viton sheet at Dotmar Engineering Plastics (10 Woodson Place, Glenfield) Not sure if they have hose though.

Euen

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:56 pm

Here is the other write up on the compatibility of tubing material with hot engine oil. Looks like it is written by the same guy.

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8255/hosetest.pdf

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:58 pm

get the goodyear hose!

3 years now and its still like new.
I worked in the fuel industry for 5 years so know what works.

its rated for temp and oil.

if i could only remember the part #

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:12 pm

Will do thanks, did you wrap it with exhaust wrap? How close to the exhaust does it run? And do you have a length of steel pipe on the oil drain? Mine was directly connected but I have extended the pipe to 200mm, but is still runs about 50mm from the exhaust pipe. It did have exhaust wrap but that got oil soaked so would have lost it’s insulation properties.

And come on Slydy get the head under that bonnet and look for the number on that tube J

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:27 pm

GOODYEAR" HR5" HOSE

MAX TEMP 150C.

and yes i did wrap the first 150mm or so with some of that heat reflective blanket that you can also see wrapping my heater hoses. The radiated heat from the turbine is the real killer of drain hoses in turbos

now i have to go wash the oil off myself....thanks poison.

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:30 pm

Well done J getting dirty for the cause !!! Thanks.

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:56 pm

God knows what’s going on with the J thing, they are supposed to be smiley’s