Timing Belt Time

GerryAttrick · Post by **GerryAttrick** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:20 am

At 101,000kms I guess its time to do the timing belt.

Have a manual on order but it looks like it will be a week or so away.Meanwhile I want to collect up all the parts so I am ready to go (will do the water pump at the same time).

Can anyone provide a list of parts required so I can go about assembling them. I can get most of the obvious ones but would hate to get started and find I am one bit short as I can't afford to have the car off the road for an extended period.
Oh..and I understand that OEM is the way to go for cam cover gasket if I want to avoid leaks afterwards?

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Wed May 23, 2007 11:24 am

Recommend doing the other belts as well, along with all the water hoses, including the little ones, while you have it apart.

Its also recommended to replace the tensioner bearings for the cam-belt while you have it apart. Check around for prices, I got mine from Saeco on Wairau Rd.

Euen

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Wed May 23, 2007 2:12 pm

What year is your MX5?
89's - and early 90's have the smaller crank nose so you can change the belt without loosening off the crank bolt.
So...a quick list for 89 - 90 would be:
Timing Belt
The two tensioner bearings. (You don't have to use new bolts as the bolts won't have stretched - but up to you).
Water pump.

90 onwards (Only refering to N/A)
Above with the incusion of the crank bolt

As you have to take the radiator out it would be good to change the hoses etc as well as the two belts all at the same time.
However they are a simple job to replace at a later date.
Timing belt - I have never used the oem one as they are way too expensive in my opinion. ($100something from Mazda compared to $29.00 from Repco. - I have had good results with the "Gates" brand).
They are easy to do if you take it methodically.

Growler.

GerryAttrick · Post by **GerryAttrick** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:23 pm

On Wednesday 23 May 2007 11:24, Euen wrote:

Recommend doing the other belts as well, along with all the water hoses,
including the little ones, while you have it apart.

Its also recommended to replace the tensioner bearings for the cam-belt
while you have it apart. Check around for prices, I got mine from Saeco on
Wairau Rd.

Euen

Thanks Euen,
managed to Google most of the part nos instead of working today!

However did not think of doing the tensioner bearings..just the seals. With my
luck I'll buy all the bits and find half of them don't need doing but I'll
end up doing it anyway. Save another teardown.

Alan

GerryAttrick · Post by **GerryAttrick** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:26 pm

On Wednesday 23 May 2007 14:12, Growler wrote:

What year is your MX5?
89's - and early 90's have the smaller crank nose so you can change the
belt without loosening off the crank bolt. So...a quick list for 89 - 90
would be:
Timing Belt
The two tensioner bearings. (You don't have to use new bolts as the bolts
won't have stretched - but up to you). Water pump.

90 onwards (Only refering to N/A)
Above with the incusion of the crank bolt

As you have to take the radiator out it would be good to change the hoses
etc as well as the two belts all at the same time. However they are a
simple job to replace at a later date.
Timing belt - I have never used the oem one as they are way too expensive
in my opinion. ($100something from Mazda compared to $29.00 from Repco. - I
have had good results with the "Gates" brand). They are easy to do if you
take it methodically.

Just my luck - its a 91!!

Managed to Google the part numbers today at work and I'll probably do the
crankseal and cam seals as well as waterpump and hoses. Also recommended I do
the tensioner bearings.

Have a brother in law who has a Ford (mazda) dealership down the line but
can't be bothered trying for "mates rates". I'll have alook at the Gates belt

GerryAttrick

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:55 pm

One quick way I have found to see what crank end you have is to look at the bottom pulley.
The earlier ones (That give you trouble) have 4 bolts that hold the pulley in place as well as a dowel (Pin) for locating the pulley.
The later ones don't have the dowel and use the key as a location.
If you have the later one you have to pull the bolt out.
Now...this is a real bitch! to undo. (I have changed cam belts on both types).
What I ended up doing is pull the plugs out of the block, put a decent bar with socket on the bolt with an extension so the bar is resting on the concrete in tension. I turned the key on and flick the ignition so the engine turns over and "cracks" the bolt loose.
Sounds dodgy but works without any stress to you or the car! (However - make sure you have to bar around the right way or you could end up doing damage to the car).
When replacing it use a new bolt with a good retaining compound (Loctite is good). Don't use the old bolt as it would have stretched with age etc.

Growler.

GerryAttrick · Post by **GerryAttrick** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:17 pm

Growler wrote:One quick way I have found to see what crank end you have is to look at the bottom pulley.
The earlier ones (That give you trouble) have 4 bolts that hold the pulley in place as well as a dowel (Pin) for locating the pulley.
The later ones don't have the dowel and use the key as a location.
SNIP

Growler.

Theres a good article on MiataNet (http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html) that tells how to identify the bignosed crank (as opposed to the short nosed - the real bad one and the upgraded long nose - still not the best.) Mines the big Nosed jobbie....sorta like me

Also the tip re the cracking of the bolt is similar to one I heard where you can use a shorter bar and instead of resting it on the concrete you can jam it on the chassis rail.

Biggest problem is trying to get everything done in one weekend and making sure I have all the bits. No problem with the job its getting half way thru and finding a vital bit missing and the parts dept either closed or part not in stock.

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Wed May 23, 2007 11:23 pm

Well if ya get stuck give me a yell.

GerryAttrick · Post by **GerryAttrick** » Thu May 24, 2007 6:59 am

On Wednesday 23 May 2007 23:23, Growler wrote:

Well if ya get stuck give me a yell.

Thanks,will keep the offer in mind.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Fri May 25, 2007 4:30 pm

its also a good idea to replace the little metal "T" pipe that comes off the thermostat housing...they corrode and then water out in a big way...i know of at least two that have let go on club runs....
if you cant get the T piece from mazda then you may have to tap the housing out with a 1/8 bsp tap and put a nipple in it.

Timing Belt Time

Timing Belt Time

TIMING BELT TIME

TIMING BELT TIME

Timing Belt Time

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