NA/TURBO/SUPERCHARGE How much did you spend?
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Here you go.Snapfrozen wrote:What RPM are you planning to be driving the car at? That's going to serously hinder the longevity of the engine. And dyno figures mean nothing without the same dyno measuring the car stock. I know of one BIG workshop in Auckland whos dyno has been known to run up to 20% high lol
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Not go for a drive, take the car for a drive, and then you will get a better idea of when the boost is starting to build and the torque kicking in.
An not in an MX5 with heaps of power and a huge lag, just one with small boost that comes in nice and early, something that give's a bit of gentle assist, rather than ramming eveything down it's throat.
Honestly a gymkhana (and I don't want another argument of what it is actually supposed to be called) car will be a lot easier to drive and quicker with a small boost either from a SC or small turbo, than a NA car where all the power is starting to get generated up high. Different story for a track car, where you are constantly on the throttle, but the stuff you are doing is low speed work, and constantly on and off the throttle, and you will need a more responsive engine across the whole rev range.
Personally, I love the idea of an NA car, especially the old Ford BDA rally engines of the 80's, man you can't beat them just for the noise alone, and I guess that's why I went with the V8 in my car (yes a bit on the extreme side) but I didn't want a boost assisted car (had too many of these) so had to throw cubic inches at it.
You've been saying that you want the car as a daily driver, with a bit more power, easy to drive and not suffer in the economy, but able to do your gymkhana's, then sorry to say, then NA in a small engine is not going to be the way to go. If it was just going to be the ITB's and exhaust/filter and leave it at that then maybe, but if you are thinking about grander plans in the future, but not having it as a track car, then forget it.
I don't want to be one of these people that try to put you what you want to do as a project (as a few tried to do with mine), but I guess you just need to stand back and figure out what you really want the car to be used for, and that might help you along your path.
An not in an MX5 with heaps of power and a huge lag, just one with small boost that comes in nice and early, something that give's a bit of gentle assist, rather than ramming eveything down it's throat.
Honestly a gymkhana (and I don't want another argument of what it is actually supposed to be called) car will be a lot easier to drive and quicker with a small boost either from a SC or small turbo, than a NA car where all the power is starting to get generated up high. Different story for a track car, where you are constantly on the throttle, but the stuff you are doing is low speed work, and constantly on and off the throttle, and you will need a more responsive engine across the whole rev range.
Personally, I love the idea of an NA car, especially the old Ford BDA rally engines of the 80's, man you can't beat them just for the noise alone, and I guess that's why I went with the V8 in my car (yes a bit on the extreme side) but I didn't want a boost assisted car (had too many of these) so had to throw cubic inches at it.
You've been saying that you want the car as a daily driver, with a bit more power, easy to drive and not suffer in the economy, but able to do your gymkhana's, then sorry to say, then NA in a small engine is not going to be the way to go. If it was just going to be the ITB's and exhaust/filter and leave it at that then maybe, but if you are thinking about grander plans in the future, but not having it as a track car, then forget it.
I don't want to be one of these people that try to put you what you want to do as a project (as a few tried to do with mine), but I guess you just need to stand back and figure out what you really want the car to be used for, and that might help you along your path.
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This thread isnt just for me, many people are interested in price/power details. So am I weather I go Turbo or NA.Snapfrozen wrote:Why make the thread then?
If you are after fun, then it is completely up to you what dictates that and it is pointless asking about price/power...
I still agree though, go for a ride in a boosted MX with a GOOD driver and watch what happens
Dont worry Donovan, power mods are a long way off. I still need better brakes, cooling, rollbar, sways, 6 speed and more driving skill before I upgrade.
No point in having more power if you cant use the full potential.
Thanks for the offer WOT but Im working this Saturday unfortunately, its surprising how many of you are determined to make me go turbo
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Haha Im still interested in having a go/ride in one but it would take some serious convincing to make me go FI, I have heaps of time though.WideOpenThrottle wrote:'Thanks for the offer WOT'
No worries...i think your mind is made up & there is nothing wrong with that!
The more people say NA wont work the more I wan to do it! Just like not buying coilovers or buying Watanabes, Im more stubborn than Bunta
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if you are going ITB's then dont even bother with a B6. spend the money on a 1800 NB engine with the better head. the money you spend on swapping to the more powerful (and more tuneable) 1800 will be cheaper than working the 1600 up to stock 1800 levels. trust me. just buy an NB 1800 engine, sell your B6 and start from there.
the change over price would be about $600 and you cant do anything to a B6 for 600 that would make any real difference in power.
soin summary, just ITB an NB 1800 and stop asking silly questions. haha
the change over price would be about $600 and you cant do anything to a B6 for 600 that would make any real difference in power.
soin summary, just ITB an NB 1800 and stop asking silly questions. haha
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
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And if you are going 1.8 then go for the 99/2000 engine as a minimum (includes JDM 1998). For a good reliable normally aspirated 1.8, you will probably spend as much as for a 1.6 but end up with more torque and more power (and more fun). But don't forget to factor in the aftermarket computer and a good tune.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=551260006
surpised these have been listed so often and no takers...furai..?
surpised these have been listed so often and no takers...furai..?
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They are sold by Jared the Megasquirt tuner in Tauranga and i think he makes them to order so sales could be on-going & not just a one-off!Mad Kiwi wrote:http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=551260006
surpised these have been listed so often and no takers...furai..?
1989 NA 1650
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
Surfboard
Push-bike
Hiking shoes
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
Surfboard
Push-bike
Hiking shoes
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what about the later 2.3 or 2.6 mazda 3 / mazda 6 motor?
hey everyone.
this thread is excellent!
i too am considering the horsepower future of my little blue NA.
i've got light wheels, wilwoods with big slotted rotors, bilstein coilovers etc already, and am about to start bracing the chassis and looking at a real rollbar.
i build motorcycles, so am under no illusion that i will WANT MORE POWER. however, i'm not convinced a turbo will give me what i want, as for me it's about midrange.
i see some USA threads about the later 2.3 and 2.6 4 cyl mazda motors, and that interests me greatly. something like that with a cleaned head and exhaust sounds like a reliable, torquey all mazda solution....
anyone done it - or considering that way?
Ken
this thread is excellent!
i too am considering the horsepower future of my little blue NA.
i've got light wheels, wilwoods with big slotted rotors, bilstein coilovers etc already, and am about to start bracing the chassis and looking at a real rollbar.
i build motorcycles, so am under no illusion that i will WANT MORE POWER. however, i'm not convinced a turbo will give me what i want, as for me it's about midrange.
i see some USA threads about the later 2.3 and 2.6 4 cyl mazda motors, and that interests me greatly. something like that with a cleaned head and exhaust sounds like a reliable, torquey all mazda solution....
anyone done it - or considering that way?
Ken
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- I am quitting my job and going 5-ing
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The later MZR engines are 2.0 or 2.5 litre and are basically the same as the Ford Duratec. Most of the common ones that are available will be for front wheel drive installations unless you get one from an NC MX5.
I think the main problem with this option is that the bell housing is different and also the inlet and exhausts are on the opposite side to the B series engines. On the NC, the PPF is also on the opposite side of the gearbox/diff.
Another option is the F3 engine and that swap has been quite popular but once again your pimary source is going to be a FWD car.
If you were really keen you could go for the KL 2.5 V6 and there is an excellent thread in the Engins Swap section of forum.miata.net that several different peoples projects.
I think the main problem with this option is that the bell housing is different and also the inlet and exhausts are on the opposite side to the B series engines. On the NC, the PPF is also on the opposite side of the gearbox/diff.
Another option is the F3 engine and that swap has been quite popular but once again your pimary source is going to be a FWD car.
If you were really keen you could go for the KL 2.5 V6 and there is an excellent thread in the Engins Swap section of forum.miata.net that several different peoples projects.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.
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Re: what about the later 2.3 or 2.6 mazda 3 / mazda 6 motor?
dont get fooled into thinking turbos dont do midrange. most decent turbos will spool to 8 psi at under 3000rpm so that still gives you 4000+ rpm to play with and at anything over 3000 full boost is just a moment away. the yanks seem to think that getting a turbo to spool at 2000 rpm is so cool but its just dumb.Badcat wrote:hey everyone.
this thread is excellent!
i too am considering the horsepower future of my little blue NA.
i've got light wheels, wilwoods with big slotted rotors, bilstein coilovers etc already, and am about to start bracing the chassis and looking at a real rollbar.
i build motorcycles, so am under no illusion that i will WANT MORE POWER. however, i'm not convinced a turbo will give me what i want, as for me it's about midrange.
i see some USA threads about the later 2.3 and 2.6 4 cyl mazda motors, and that interests me greatly. something like that with a cleaned head and exhaust sounds like a reliable, torquey all mazda solution....
anyone done it - or considering that way?
Ken
if you actually look at you rev counter while driving, you spend most of the time over 3000 rpm anyway even stock.
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
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