Clutch recommendations

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:30 pm

Wasnt sure where this belonged

Took my friend for a test drive today after picking my car up and had the clutch slip on me. Im not surprised by it as i accidentally shifted from 2nd to 5th while having a quick test of acceleration.

I know you can swap the 1800's flywheel onto the 1600 but would rather not as i'd just want to keep it simple.
Will be keeping it n/a for quite a while

Any recommendations for a 1600 clutch? I will be doing a little bit of track work so would want something slightly better than stock.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:54 pm

before you pull out the clutch, check your master cylinder. the clutch master has a circlip that can rust out and it stops the cylinder from returning fully. i had that happen to me on an 18 month old master.

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:59 pm

Ill check that tomorrow after ive swapped the roof

It was a rather major slip as it stunk of burnt clutch for a couple of mins

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:04 pm

getting the master cyl is a bit of a prick of a job... but better than pulling the g box for no reason.

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:14 pm

Yeah that'd probably be easier. I'll grab a haynes manual from repco next time im at work. That should show how to take the cylinder out right?

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:17 pm

its basically a few 10mm bolts holding it to the firewall...its just getting to them!

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 7:21 pm

are they on the interior or engine bay side?

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:19 pm

You can remove the master cylinder by the two nuts behind it as it is attached to the front of the booster or to remove both together there is three nuts against the inside of the firewall behind the pedal... [you will need to be double jointed or flex like rubber]!

You will also have to remove the nuts/hoses from the master cylinder first...& collect/withdraw fluid from the reservoir even firster! lol.

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:27 pm

Try this link for a manual download

actually...this one might be better

www.filecrop.com/mazda-mx-5-workshop-manual.html

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:32 pm

Cheers for that, downloading now

Might grab a bottle or 2 of brake fluid before attempting to remove the master cylinder

halberd · Post by **halberd** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:40 pm

I got the Veloce "Enthusiasts" book if you want to borrow it for a bit

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:04 pm

This one?

Looks like it could be a handy book to have. I can get a haynes manual from repco for ~$45 so ill probably go for one of them

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 8:17 am

I have got about 15 car manuals in the draw [Haynes- Gregories etc] and they are all mostly useless compared to the download!

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:34 pm

Enthusiasts Shop Manual is a far better guide than the Haynes. More detailed and more practical. Definitely worth the extra dollars.

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:01 pm

After a few weeks of driving the mx5 i have decided that i will be taking it to track and drift days so will be upgrading the clutch anyway.

My friend recommended that i go for one of these since i'll be doing track/drift work.
http://www.broomfish.co.nz/product_info ... ts_id=1861

Would it be a good idea to go for this one?

punkoutnz · Post by **punkoutnz** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 10:29 pm

I've had a guts full of exedy clutches myself. Having personally killed 3 in my Primera/Pulsar days, and knowing of at least 5 other people that had the same issues I did (the dampening springs coming loose and falling out, buggering the clutch). Put an auto clutch clutch in and never had a problem since.

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:12 pm

How long ago was that? Ive been told they've improved their quality over the last few years.

punkoutnz · Post by **punkoutnz** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:19 am

Well the issues I had started about 5 years ago, but the most recent clutch disaster was around 6 or so months ago. I haven't seen any change in the clutch design over that time and every failure has been at the same point, where those springs sit in the clutch plates wears out and the springs come loose.

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:32 am

I think I'll go with a happy meal clutch from FM

Ian · Post by **Ian** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 10:44 am

Exedy HD works for me...on and off the track!

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 11:14 am

I went to the 3 puck Exedy Sports ceramic after I ripped the lining off the "organic" plate.

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:28 pm

Sent an email off to autoclutch and they are going to make me a paddle clutch for cheaper than I can get the exedy kit for.
I asked him about the exedy ones and he told me that they haven't improved with their spring issue.

Cheers punkoutnz for the tip

Zadkiel · Post by **Zadkiel** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:39 pm

What price range was that? I think I'll be needing a new clutch soon

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 6:19 pm

$607 inc rural shipping.
The exedy one in the link i posted was $650ish

siren676 · Post by **siren676** » Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:15 pm

This is going to be sweet

Clutch recommendations

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