Flyin Miata Link ECU
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Re: link mark I & II
does that produce a pwm signal or a resistance?
gary said not to worry about the air temp sensor but as far as i know i wont be able to run boost without it guess ill have to save for that before the turbo
Hi there, yes the signal is a pwm.
For the mark I ecu I had to rewire the ecu and add resistors etc to use the temp sensor, also for WBO2 sensor but thats not important.
With the FM ecu mark II this rewiring is not necessary as it is already done.
I have to suggest that you go back to the installation instructions and recheck ALL the steps ESPECIALLY the wiring loom modification at the ecu connections! have you followed these?
gary said not to worry about the air temp sensor but as far as i know i wont be able to run boost without it guess ill have to save for that before the turbo
Hi there, yes the signal is a pwm.
For the mark I ecu I had to rewire the ecu and add resistors etc to use the temp sensor, also for WBO2 sensor but thats not important.
With the FM ecu mark II this rewiring is not necessary as it is already done.
I have to suggest that you go back to the installation instructions and recheck ALL the steps ESPECIALLY the wiring loom modification at the ecu connections! have you followed these?
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yeah i know its not an issue with the ecu i do let it boot up
the reason it wouldnt start was because i havent ran a jumper wire for the fuel cut at the afm
all the wires have been changed at the ecu i just need to rewire the map sensor as it is not a miata link one so wont have the fuel cut switch or knock sensor rca input but hopefully i should just be able to wire it into the FEN terminal of the diagnostic conector bypassing the map sensor
i just need the FM Link pin diagram to see wich is the power, ground, and signal from the map sensor
i have had a vr4 with a link ecu so have alitle experience with them just not while using the factory loom
the reason it wouldnt start was because i havent ran a jumper wire for the fuel cut at the afm
all the wires have been changed at the ecu i just need to rewire the map sensor as it is not a miata link one so wont have the fuel cut switch or knock sensor rca input but hopefully i should just be able to wire it into the FEN terminal of the diagnostic conector bypassing the map sensor
i just need the FM Link pin diagram to see wich is the power, ground, and signal from the map sensor
i have had a vr4 with a link ecu so have alitle experience with them just not while using the factory loom
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called link today they have another miata link map sensor for a 1.8 and reacon ill be able to wire it in so i can run a knock sensor and have fuel pump switching etc i guess ill need to find a maf sensor plug and figure out how to wire it in
i have a mate who may be able to make me the air temp sensor if someone can lend me one
what progress i have finally made today
thanks alot for your help on friday 2low2c your a man who really knows his stuff
i have a mate who may be able to make me the air temp sensor if someone can lend me one
what progress i have finally made today
thanks alot for your help on friday 2low2c your a man who really knows his stuff
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cheers mate
talked to my mate today regarding air temp sensor he said it couldnt make a pwm signal without a power wire and says it has to produce resistance of some sort (maby a pwm wave of resistance?)
he said i really need to find him one to reverse engineer
might try emailing jeremy or keith again and see if they know any values for it or how it works
talked to my mate today regarding air temp sensor he said it couldnt make a pwm signal without a power wire and says it has to produce resistance of some sort (maby a pwm wave of resistance?)
he said i really need to find him one to reverse engineer
might try emailing jeremy or keith again and see if they know any values for it or how it works
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Flyin Miata Link ECU
If there are no obvious electronics at the sensor it's really unlikely to be a PWM of any sort, there are two common types of temperatures sensors in use commercially. They are resistive and will vary from 100ohms to 20Kohms at room temp. And thermocouples http://www.sensorland.com/HowPage017.html, thermocouples tend to be very small and high resistance.
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You can't decide a sensor type by size, a thermocouple sensor bead can be tiny or large depending on it's package (covering), for example the thermocouple is the tiny bead at the tip of the blue heat shrink in this picture. We use lots of types at work and you can't always tell just by looking at it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple0002.jpg
But that said, I see Jif said in an earlier post that they are PWM and I would say you take his word as gospel (unless he says anything bad about me...lol) and given there are some onboard electronics it could well generate a PWM signal. Many things could fail, from a crack in the sensor bead to an electronic fault, or even a faulty input.
My best advise is to send the whole thing to Link in NZ and they will bench test it within a couple of days. I think it cost me about $75 a couple of years ago. Well worth it to put the whole issue to bed, they may moan if oyu have the FM software but they can still fully bench test it. Avoid the sales guy (Full of S....) and talk to the tech guys. They could even plug in one of their own chips to bench test the hardware.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple0002.jpg
But that said, I see Jif said in an earlier post that they are PWM and I would say you take his word as gospel (unless he says anything bad about me...lol) and given there are some onboard electronics it could well generate a PWM signal. Many things could fail, from a crack in the sensor bead to an electronic fault, or even a faulty input.
My best advise is to send the whole thing to Link in NZ and they will bench test it within a couple of days. I think it cost me about $75 a couple of years ago. Well worth it to put the whole issue to bed, they may moan if oyu have the FM software but they can still fully bench test it. Avoid the sales guy (Full of S....) and talk to the tech guys. They could even plug in one of their own chips to bench test the hardware.


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Jeremy Ferber to me
show details 6:00 AM (1 hour ago) Reply
Hey Cole,
All I know about the IAT sensor we sold to go with our Link software is that it outputs a low voltage square wave. If you're running the Link software however, it won't work- they probably just use a GM standard IAT sensor. Not sure.
Questions? Check out our FAQs
http://www.flyinmiata.com/FAQ/
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Jeremy Ferber
Technical Sales Manager
Flyin' Miata
499 35 Road
Palisade, CO 81526
www.flyinmiata.com
www.fmwestfield.com
800-FLY-MX5S (sales)
970-464-5600 (tech)
970-464-4887 (fax)
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taken from two sources
from miata.net
This thread is located at:http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.ph ... to=newpost
from miata.net
from my mate who will make sensor for meOriginally Posted by sprsta
does anyone know how the miatalink air temp sensor works?
Yes.
Quote:
i have been told it makes a pwm signal
it does.
Quote:
Simply isn’t possible with two wires
Hmmm, that's not entirely true ... how about: one wire has a pull-up resistor, and charge is taken from it through a diode and stored on a capacitor. That can then be used to run a semiconductor that shorts that same wire to ground for short periods, the length of which can indicate temperature.
HTH,
Rod
If it shorts the same wire to ground, then the capacitor discharges and there is no voltage? Unless there is synchronisation between ECU and sensor, and the ECU uses a tri state pin. Once again, sounds too complicated to be realistic.
This thread is located at:http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.ph ... to=newpost
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RUNNING!!!
WOO HOO
sorted out the map sensor wiring. cant run boost with FM chip but have got a good idle, all seems to be progressing nicely finally
ok next is finding a link tuning manual as ill be switching the FM chip for a genuine link chip,
can anyone point me in the right direction for a pdf of one?
WOO HOO
sorted out the map sensor wiring. cant run boost with FM chip but have got a good idle, all seems to be progressing nicely finally
ok next is finding a link tuning manual as ill be switching the FM chip for a genuine link chip,
can anyone point me in the right direction for a pdf of one?
A bit of a thread-revive sorry.
I have a miataLink but no handcontrolller. I can connect/log using the 'Data Log Lab' program and the engine runs. I also have the 'PCLink' software (v2.5) and a serial to USB cable through virtual COM port 4 but can't seem to connect to the ECU.
In the Tuning instructions (https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/inst ... tuning.pdf), page 7, it states that you've got to match the CAS timing with the value in the ECU but only mentions how to access the set-timing mode through the hand controller.
I marked the CAS position on the old engine before transferring it across but, silly me, a) marked it on the back of the engine where I can see it and b) marked including the washer (which moves).
Any ideas how I can connect to the ECU so I can set/check the timing using a timing light?
I have a miataLink but no handcontrolller. I can connect/log using the 'Data Log Lab' program and the engine runs. I also have the 'PCLink' software (v2.5) and a serial to USB cable through virtual COM port 4 but can't seem to connect to the ECU.
In the Tuning instructions (https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/inst ... tuning.pdf), page 7, it states that you've got to match the CAS timing with the value in the ECU but only mentions how to access the set-timing mode through the hand controller.
I marked the CAS position on the old engine before transferring it across but, silly me, a) marked it on the back of the engine where I can see it and b) marked including the washer (which moves).
Any ideas how I can connect to the ECU so I can set/check the timing using a timing light?
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