Rear Brake Overhaul - Help Please

poison · Post by **poison** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:25 pm

Failed the old WOF on seeping brake fluid from the rear
calipers, where the handbrake cable goes in

So it's time to get the hands dirty... open up the good old
Haynes manual, and it says "Take in to a specialist", well
that sounds like BS to me, this manual must have been
written in the states.

Has anyone got anything relating to this job? or know of
something on the net? The brake kit can be bought anywhere,
and I've only ever done drum barkes before, so I'm slightly
wary of how the hand brake interacts etc and any traps for
young players... ie: springs that come out and never go back
in.

Cheers

Gazza
"PO1SON"

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:31 pm

Hi Gazza

Dismantling and re-assembly is covered in the Enthusiasts manual. From memory, the only bit that I encountered that could get lost is the adjuster screw.

Cheers
Euen

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:31 pm

Hi Gazza

Dismantling and re-assembly is covered in the Enthusiasts manual. From memory, the only bit that I encountered that could get lost is the adjuster screw.

Cheers
Euen

Bob ANDERSON · Post by **Bob ANDERSON** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:40 pm

The only issue I had was that the circlips holding in one of the seals was recessed beyond the reach of my circlip pliers. I got a brake crowd to change these seals but did all the rest myself. Get the overhaul kits from Sterlings in Onehunga. Take the opportunity to upgrade to EBC pads or similar.

Dr Bob

Bob ANDERSON · Post by **Bob ANDERSON** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:40 pm

The only issue I had was that the circlips holding in one of the seals was recessed beyond the reach of my circlip pliers. I got a brake crowd to change these seals but did all the rest myself. Get the overhaul kits from Sterlings in Onehunga. Take the opportunity to upgrade to EBC pads or similar.

Dr Bob

Robyn and Rich · Post by **Robyn and Rich** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:41 pm

Get your husband to look at it... Lmao... Works for me every
time... Haha. Sorry... Good luck.

Robyn and Rich · Post by **Robyn and Rich** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:41 pm

Get your husband to look at it... Lmao... Works for me every
time... Haha. Sorry... Good luck.

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:59 pm

I had mine done recently and can offer the suggestion to sort it out quickly. One possible down-side of delay is that brake fluid can find its way on to the pads causing irrepairable damage (to the pads).

Regards

David Moughtin

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:59 pm

I had mine done recently and can offer the suggestion to sort it out quickly. One possible down-side of delay is that brake fluid can find its way on to the pads causing irrepairable damage (to the pads).

Regards

David Moughtin

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 5:00 pm

Hmm - Gazza's husband - sounds like something that can only be done on Fantsay night.

Thank you for your help

Best regards

David Moughtin

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 5:00 pm

Hmm - Gazza's husband - sounds like something that can only be done on Fantsay night.

Thank you for your help

Best regards

David Moughtin

Post by **zorruno** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:36 pm

============================================================
From: poison
Has anyone got anything relating to this job? or know of
something on the net? The brake kit can be bought anywhere,
and I've only ever done drum barkes before, so I'm slightly
wary of how the hand brake interacts etc and any traps for
young players... ie: springs that come out and never go back
in.

tip:
double check any torque settings. The haynes manual has a few wrong -
and one very wrong (which got me). I overtorqued a slider pin on the
front calliper.

H

Post by **zorruno** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:36 pm

============================================================
From: poison
Has anyone got anything relating to this job? or know of
something on the net? The brake kit can be bought anywhere,
and I've only ever done drum barkes before, so I'm slightly
wary of how the hand brake interacts etc and any traps for
young players... ie: springs that come out and never go back
in.

tip:
double check any torque settings. The haynes manual has a few wrong -
and one very wrong (which got me). I overtorqued a slider pin on the
front calliper.

H

poison · Post by **poison** » Mon Nov 28, 2005 7:35 pm

Hi Glenn

Thanks for that, awesome instructions cheers. Bit of a sh*t to get the first
one apart but the second was a breeze, juts hope they go back together the
same way.

The inside of the main piston looks complicated, not sure what's going on in
there so best leave that bit alone

Cheers

Gazza

poison · Post by **poison** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 6:29 pm

Hey Glenn

I used to have a fibre glass pen from my days as a draughtsman but can't
seem to find a place that sells them anymore. Where did you get yours? I
might give Jif bathroom cleaner a go if I can't get one, scotch brights are
not so good as they can scratch metal.

Cheers

Gazza

biff · Post by **biff** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:26 pm

Hey Gazza, you can get those green scouring pads for "non stick" pans, they
should be ok.
Biff
ZOOM1N

biff · Post by **biff** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:26 pm

Hey Gazza, you can get those green scouring pads for "non stick" pans, they
should be ok.
Biff
ZOOM1N

Ian · Post by **Ian** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:35 pm

Does anyone have contact details for zorruno, an occasional contributor to
this forum??

Thanks, Ian

Ian · Post by **Ian** » Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:35 pm

Does anyone have contact details for zorruno, an occasional contributor to
this forum??

Thanks, Ian

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