Scrub a dub dub

[Colin]

This isn't a topic I had thought a great deal about. I know that over the
years I have owned cars, I have developed a few thoughts on the cleaning of
them. Being a person who prefers the succulent wetness of a good Gewurtz over
the clammy dampness of a car wash sponge has led to making things as easy as I
can for myself. Of course easy is only ok if the results are at the right
level.
There will be some who disagree with what I suggest and I would encourage
those to look at this as a guide rather than a rule, adaptable to your own
thoughts.

STATUS Car has only road grime, a few bugs, maybe a
bird has left its mark.
Finish has a reasonable layer of wax,
not new but not too weathered.

EQUIPMENT Carwash I use Mothers. There are many brands on the market. I
have tried lots over the years and can recommend
Maguires and Mothers.
Its important to note the purpose of a
detergent. Some are formulated to remove grease ie: dishwash,
some to remove sweat and general soiling ie: clothes wash, some are mild ie:
hand soap, you get the idea I
guess. Using a product not suited makes the top result harder to achieve for
example dishwash will always remove
your wax. Chemical and solvent assisted washes like many auto carwashes use
are not a good option.
Detergents do two main jobs, lifting
dirt from the surface and then holding it in suspension so that it can
be rinsed away.
Water To dilute the above
Sponge I prefer the large dogbone shaped ones.
Bucket To hold the carwash and water solution
Hose Usually attached to a tap at one end and
used for transporting water to the bucket and to the car.

METHOD Wash one panel at a time and rinse it off
immediately. Start at the lowest point on each panel and use
a well soaked sponge. Rinsing with the hose in a downwards direction is just
that, a gentle runoff of water, not a
blast of high pressure. I do not use any fittings on the end of the hose. Save
your money and stay away from
them.
I usually start from the front and
wash the mouth area and headlights (up) first, rinse, head lights down
and then down one side, front guard, door,rear guard, rear panel, rear guard,
door,front panel,bonnet and
windscreen, bootlid and rear window. Be attentive to the wheelarch lips and
the sills.
I frequently wash the car with the
roof down and with a runoff rinsing action and a towel this is very
successful.
NOTES Bugs. Possibly the hardest thing to remove
and usually on the front. Bugs come in thousands of shapes and
sizes but share one thing. They are a flying stomach. That being the case they
are (when squished) acidic. Acid and
oxygen equals glue. If I need to I use either concentrated carwash and allow
it to soak, or if the numbers are huge
I make a solution of clothes powder dissolved in warm water. This makes an
alkali solution which
neutralises the glue and lets the bug bits fall off. ( If you do this the be
careful, alkali plus you equals soap.
Use gloves and don't get any in your eyes. Serious and permanent injury to eye
tissue is possible. Wear glasses.)
Make sure you use the carwash after to clear away all remnants of the
bug remover. I always rewax the area after.
WHEELS If there is alot of brakedust and it had
hardened on. Possible after a long trip or if the car hasn't been
washed for a while, then I use 'Eagle One' spray wheel cleaner. I have used
most of the brands on the
market and while there are some good ones, eagle is a reasonable price. Just
follow the directions on the pack
and rinse off well. Then wash the car. I tried brewing up this product myself
a few years ago and made a
great product although I have not pursued it any further. Then wash the wheels
with the remains of the
carwash and rinse.
Brake dust will kill the wash foam so
do the wheels last.
DRYING I use towels that I buy specifically for the
job. I get them on sale from drapers at about $3.95 or so
each and buy 10 at a time. They last for years and I am still using my second
set. Washed a few times with fabric
softener first so they become thirsty.
One for the flat panels first and then
the sides, the second to go over the car again paying special
attention to nooks and crannies. I don't use a chamois because paint surfaces
are so slippery now
(especially clear coats) that the wax
sticks to the chamois better than the paint, so you end up dragging the
wax off.

One way to tell if the car is ready for a rewax is if you see webbing on the
surface after the sponge has passed.
That's it! The car is washed!

Cheers

Colin

[Gary Morrison]

Colin,

This was very interesting, if I didn't say so... Tell me, where do you buy the
wheel cleaner you refer to?

Gary