Reference: "91 BRG MX5 with 105,000kms (have not changed water pump, etc
since getting the car at 65,000kms)
Problem#1
Radiator and reserve full, both fans work when I turn on air conditioner,
yet before the temp gauge has reached its normal mid-pt position (even
shortly after starting the car) the heater warning light/symbol located by
the break light etc. (says "heater" with a radiator symbol) comes on. Any
ideas as to what's going on??? --- maybe some sensor or water pump
problem???
Problem #2 - top of radiator
I'm told the top section of the radiator is made of some type of
un-repairable plastic. Mine has some hairline fractures in it near/below
the radiator cap which indicate a fine leak. Again I've been told by Repco
and a mechanic this can't be patched with any type of glue/tape etc. but
must be replaced and New Lynn Radiators on Portage Rd has been recommended.
Is anyone aware of any repair alternatives other than replacing this
section??
PS (for the diagnostic experts out there) A few weeks ago a minor fender
bender at low speed (really) which resulted in my hitting the back of a
taxi who on wet pavement decided to suddenly for no apparent reason stopped
short caused my front bumper to be "pushed in" a bit. ---- maybe this is
all residual damage?? Also found my car running "hot" periodically when I
drove up to the Bay of Islands over the holidays.
Cooling System Problems
-
ross campbell
Cooling System Problems
Bill, Maybe the radiator needs flushing.Check the fans are coming on when
engine gets hot and maybe the thermostat is faulty. I have had the same
cracks repaired by a plastic welder. Not all can do it as its a unusual
type of plastic.Ross.
engine gets hot and maybe the thermostat is faulty. I have had the same
cracks repaired by a plastic welder. Not all can do it as its a unusual
type of plastic.Ross.
-
Michael Donovan
Cooling System Problems
Hi Bill,
Don't know if I can help really as I don't think I have a heater or
equivelent lamp in my '89 import.
I have had a lot of overheating troubles lately. i.e. when the car is run at
low revs it's usually o.k. unless the weather is real hot..as has been the
case for some days over xmas /new year. 1st up I checked my radiator fan
o.k. Then I checked the temp sender in the top of the thermostat housing and
the meter(as described in the enthusiasts manuel. All O.k.
I then put a bottle of flush through the radiator...no change.
I then wired the Air con fan in parallel with the main cooling fan, so they
both come on at the same time always. Little change: stop gap measure.
I then ermoved the radiator and tried reverse flushing it, I did this with
a hose and hot tap water. When I ran the hot tap water through it I tilted
the radiator every which way till it was as full as I could get it, then
blocked one then the other end up(inlet and outlet) and left it for amybe 15
minutes. When I felt the radiator , I could feel heat from less than 1/2 the
suface of it. I repeated the experiment making a real effort to get water to
the cold end. NO luck. So I presume the radiator is totally blocked for more
than 50%. Funnilly enough it's the end not cooled by the main radiator fan
thats working!
So today rang up a radiator shop and they said yes it's probably blocked. So
I'll whip it out and they'll pull it apart and unblock it for me. Clean out
the channels.
A longer version of Ross's reply
Hope you get it sorted
Mike
Don't know if I can help really as I don't think I have a heater or
equivelent lamp in my '89 import.
I have had a lot of overheating troubles lately. i.e. when the car is run at
low revs it's usually o.k. unless the weather is real hot..as has been the
case for some days over xmas /new year. 1st up I checked my radiator fan
o.k. Then I checked the temp sender in the top of the thermostat housing and
the meter(as described in the enthusiasts manuel. All O.k.
I then put a bottle of flush through the radiator...no change.
I then wired the Air con fan in parallel with the main cooling fan, so they
both come on at the same time always. Little change: stop gap measure.
I then ermoved the radiator and tried reverse flushing it, I did this with
a hose and hot tap water. When I ran the hot tap water through it I tilted
the radiator every which way till it was as full as I could get it, then
blocked one then the other end up(inlet and outlet) and left it for amybe 15
minutes. When I felt the radiator , I could feel heat from less than 1/2 the
suface of it. I repeated the experiment making a real effort to get water to
the cold end. NO luck. So I presume the radiator is totally blocked for more
than 50%. Funnilly enough it's the end not cooled by the main radiator fan
thats working!
So today rang up a radiator shop and they said yes it's probably blocked. So
I'll whip it out and they'll pull it apart and unblock it for me. Clean out
the channels.
A longer version of Ross's reply
Hope you get it sorted
Mike
-
Bill Rehm
Cooling System Problems
Thanks Ross/ Michael
Ross, who is the plastic welder you used? Is s/he in Auckland?? Welding
sounds like a cheaper option as the cost of replacing the top section of
the radiator is about $200-220.
On the other matter of the heater lamp: I've been told by a few mechanics,
including one at John Andrew Mazda, that it is likely the catalytic
converter (something in Japanese Import models). One experienced mechanic I
trust said that it IS NOT car threatening but will eat up petrol and rob
the car of power when the condition is severe. However based on his
assessment he didn't believe my car was in that severe state. An entry on
the MX5archives, the John Andrew mechanic and a muffler shop who want
business imply otherwise and suggest I have the catalytic converter removed
immediately.
Complicating the issue is the heat lamp now goes on or off suggesting a
faulty sensor. It all seems to come down to removing the catalytic
converter as it is difficult and costly to diagnose a sensor problem.
Pitt Stop and John Andrew Mazda want $130 to remove the catalytic converter
and replace it with a resonator (fancy name for a muffler). Woulf Mufflers
have quoted me $90 so it does pay to shop around. Meanwhile I'll drive the
car today and see what happens!!
Anyone else have any feedback/advice based on experience?
Ross, who is the plastic welder you used? Is s/he in Auckland?? Welding
sounds like a cheaper option as the cost of replacing the top section of
the radiator is about $200-220.
On the other matter of the heater lamp: I've been told by a few mechanics,
including one at John Andrew Mazda, that it is likely the catalytic
converter (something in Japanese Import models). One experienced mechanic I
trust said that it IS NOT car threatening but will eat up petrol and rob
the car of power when the condition is severe. However based on his
assessment he didn't believe my car was in that severe state. An entry on
the MX5archives, the John Andrew mechanic and a muffler shop who want
business imply otherwise and suggest I have the catalytic converter removed
immediately.
Complicating the issue is the heat lamp now goes on or off suggesting a
faulty sensor. It all seems to come down to removing the catalytic
converter as it is difficult and costly to diagnose a sensor problem.
Pitt Stop and John Andrew Mazda want $130 to remove the catalytic converter
and replace it with a resonator (fancy name for a muffler). Woulf Mufflers
have quoted me $90 so it does pay to shop around. Meanwhile I'll drive the
car today and see what happens!!
Anyone else have any feedback/advice based on experience?
-
ross campbell
Cooling System Problems
Bill; I use Rod Wood panel and radiators, Rod said that stress/ pressure
cracks are very hard to repair as it wants to keep cracking. To supply and
fit a new plastic top part is around $200. They tend to develop cracks
around the fan mounting brackets.
I always remove the catalytic converter and put a reasonator on my cars.
Coby mufflers do it here in Hamilton for $80 incl reasonator and do a
excellent job. The car runs a lot better and sounds good although and no
louder. I just leave the plug alone and the light never appears.Ross
Thanks Ross/ Michael
Ross, who is the plastic welder you used? Is s/he in Auckland?? Welding
sounds like a cheaper option as the cost of replacing the top section of
the radiator is about $200-220.
On the other matter of the heater lamp: I've been told by a few mechanics,
including one at John Andrew Mazda, that it is likely the catalytic
converter (something in Japanese Import models). One experienced mechanic I
trust said that it IS NOT car threatening but will eat up petrol and rob
the car of power when the condition is severe. However based on his
assessment he didn't believe my car was in that severe state. An entry on
the MX5archives, the John Andrew mechanic and a muffler shop who want
business imply otherwise and suggest I have the catalytic converter removed
immediately.
Complicating the issue is the heat lamp now goes on or off suggesting a
faulty sensor. It all seems to come down to removing the catalytic
converter as it is difficult and costly to diagnose a sensor problem.
Pitt Stop and John Andrew Mazda want $130 to remove the catalytic converter
and replace it with a resonator (fancy name for a muffler). Woulf Mufflers
have quoted me $90 so it does pay to shop around. Meanwhile I'll drive the
car today and see what happens!!
Anyone else have any feedback/advice based on experience?
cracks are very hard to repair as it wants to keep cracking. To supply and
fit a new plastic top part is around $200. They tend to develop cracks
around the fan mounting brackets.
I always remove the catalytic converter and put a reasonator on my cars.
Coby mufflers do it here in Hamilton for $80 incl reasonator and do a
excellent job. The car runs a lot better and sounds good although and no
louder. I just leave the plug alone and the light never appears.Ross
Thanks Ross/ Michael
Ross, who is the plastic welder you used? Is s/he in Auckland?? Welding
sounds like a cheaper option as the cost of replacing the top section of
the radiator is about $200-220.
On the other matter of the heater lamp: I've been told by a few mechanics,
including one at John Andrew Mazda, that it is likely the catalytic
converter (something in Japanese Import models). One experienced mechanic I
trust said that it IS NOT car threatening but will eat up petrol and rob
the car of power when the condition is severe. However based on his
assessment he didn't believe my car was in that severe state. An entry on
the MX5archives, the John Andrew mechanic and a muffler shop who want
business imply otherwise and suggest I have the catalytic converter removed
immediately.
Complicating the issue is the heat lamp now goes on or off suggesting a
faulty sensor. It all seems to come down to removing the catalytic
converter as it is difficult and costly to diagnose a sensor problem.
Pitt Stop and John Andrew Mazda want $130 to remove the catalytic converter
and replace it with a resonator (fancy name for a muffler). Woulf Mufflers
have quoted me $90 so it does pay to shop around. Meanwhile I'll drive the
car today and see what happens!!
Anyone else have any feedback/advice based on experience?
-
Michael & Kate Cooper
Cooling System Problems
Hi Bill,
I had a similar problem with my "Heat" lamp coming on and off
intermittently and finally traced the problem to the sensor wiring. The plug
for the sensor, under the car, was loose and simply reseating it solved the
problem.
regards
Michael Cooper
I had a similar problem with my "Heat" lamp coming on and off
intermittently and finally traced the problem to the sensor wiring. The plug
for the sensor, under the car, was loose and simply reseating it solved the
problem.
regards
Michael Cooper
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