Hi all,
Question : Is there any harm changing your oil from a synthetic
based oil to a semi or non-synthetic oil?
Our MX5 has "evidently" run on synthetic since new.. We've owned it
about 3 years now and have maintained this but due to the price
increases (about $70 for 4 litres) we are thinking seriously of
changing to a semi or non-synthetic oil. The readings attached to the
MX5 web pages are very helpful, which lists the benefits of using
synthetic etc but I did not see any reference to changing from one
type of oil to another. A potential problem maybe that some synthetic
oil (left behind in the sump) may mix with the new oil... but is there
any problem with this?
Any tips or references to readings would be much appreciated.
Derek.
Oil Change
-
Bill Rehm
Oil Change
I believe zorruno shared an article with some interesting findings on this
issue a short time ago (within the past year). Maybe it's in the MX5
archives???
issue a short time ago (within the past year). Maybe it's in the MX5
archives???
-
Fletcher Blades
Oil Change
I'm not aware of any issues relating to a change in that direction...
All commonly available synthetic oils are fully compatible with
mineral oils and you can mix them with no problem... Certainly the
small amount left in the engine after a change will be
un-noticeable...
Synthetic oil does offer many advantages over mineral oils, but as
long as you change oil regularly, your car will run well for a long
time on any oil...
Fletch.
All commonly available synthetic oils are fully compatible with
mineral oils and you can mix them with no problem... Certainly the
small amount left in the engine after a change will be
un-noticeable...
Synthetic oil does offer many advantages over mineral oils, but as
long as you change oil regularly, your car will run well for a long
time on any oil...
Fletch.
Oil Change
I've never heard of a problem with changing from synthetic to mineral oil, but I'm
no expert in this realm.
I have heard of a reason not to change from mineral to synthetic - that being that
with mineral oil use over the years there can be a buildup of 'varnish' on seals
which helps keep them sealed - when you change to synthetic this can dissolve
and be washed away (along with other crap in the system) & your engine starts
a slow leak.
I changed to Mobil-1 (full synthetic) shortly after I got my (1989) car two years
ago, on the basis that with the supposedly better quality oil (& being synthetic) I
can do oil changes only every 10,000km instead of the 5,000km changes I was
doing. The less frequent oil changes bring the average cost of synthetic down to
the same region as the more frequent mineral oil changes. (Just in case you
missed it, this paragraph is the point of my reply - synth oil effectively costs me
about the same as mineral)
I have no hard evidence to say that this is reasonable, and I'm sure some people
will disagree with me - it seems that with many car decisions, there are people
with far more experience than myself who fervently hold opinions which are quite
opposite to other equally expert people. I try to find out as much as I can, make
my decision, then stop worrying about it
If my engine is leaking through deglazing of seals, it's not enough to drip, so I
don't care.
Karl.
===============================
[...]
no expert in this realm.
I have heard of a reason not to change from mineral to synthetic - that being that
with mineral oil use over the years there can be a buildup of 'varnish' on seals
which helps keep them sealed - when you change to synthetic this can dissolve
and be washed away (along with other crap in the system) & your engine starts
a slow leak.
I changed to Mobil-1 (full synthetic) shortly after I got my (1989) car two years
ago, on the basis that with the supposedly better quality oil (& being synthetic) I
can do oil changes only every 10,000km instead of the 5,000km changes I was
doing. The less frequent oil changes bring the average cost of synthetic down to
the same region as the more frequent mineral oil changes. (Just in case you
missed it, this paragraph is the point of my reply - synth oil effectively costs me
about the same as mineral)
I have no hard evidence to say that this is reasonable, and I'm sure some people
will disagree with me - it seems that with many car decisions, there are people
with far more experience than myself who fervently hold opinions which are quite
opposite to other equally expert people. I try to find out as much as I can, make
my decision, then stop worrying about it
If my engine is leaking through deglazing of seals, it's not enough to drip, so I
don't care.
Karl.
===============================
[...]
-
Keith Cook
Oil Change
My car was serviced in AK back in August and 7K ago. The sticker says ELF which is double dutch to me down here in In'gill. No-one knows what I'm talking about when I query them. Anyone up there in the land of the rain enlighten me about this oil? I fear a change is coming due if not already past and I'ld like to know what I'm dealing with.
Oil Change
Keith
Elf is a French brand of oil that was and still may be sold by the
Warehouse.From memory it was available in
mineral & semi synthetic.
Steve
Elf is a French brand of oil that was and still may be sold by the
Warehouse.From memory it was available in
mineral & semi synthetic.
Steve
-
Rowan Hick
Oil Change
As a note just because it's sold by the warehouse doesn't mean it's warehouse quality.
Elf Synthese 5w40 is what a lot of people use in Twin Turbo 300ZX's (Club recommendation) as it's a fairly top notch oil. 100% synthetic etc. A TTZ will make oil work a lot harder than an MX5 engine so I'd say you're safe using it Elf provide to some of the top rally teams and have a good range of oils starting at Dino oil and working upto super expensive megabuck/litre oil for F1 teams. If you want to know where to source it down south contact Andrew @ ELF in auckland. He's a good guy to
deal with.
I have used ELF Synthese but I think it has a really high detergent content and it didn't like my turbo seals - it did however clear out lifter tick after a track day at Pukekohe. For the last 2 years I've used Motul 300V Chrono Racing (10w40) or Competition (15w50) racing (winter/summer respectively) but thats on a highly strung twin turbo engine that doesn't get given an easy life. At roughly $150/change/5000kms it's not everyones cup of tea but when engine failures can cost in excess of $8000
then .. good insurance policy. I've got some of the longest surviving stock turbos on a modified engine, the only reason we can think that they haven't died is the oil. My personal vote is and will stay with Motul stuff.
Rowan
Steve Easdon wrote:
[...]
Elf Synthese 5w40 is what a lot of people use in Twin Turbo 300ZX's (Club recommendation) as it's a fairly top notch oil. 100% synthetic etc. A TTZ will make oil work a lot harder than an MX5 engine so I'd say you're safe using it
Elf provide to some of the top rally teams and have a good range of oils starting at Dino oil and working upto super expensive megabuck/litre oil for F1 teams. If you want to know where to source it down south contact Andrew @ ELF in auckland. He's a good guy todeal with.
I have used ELF Synthese but I think it has a really high detergent content and it didn't like my turbo seals - it did however clear out lifter tick after a track day at Pukekohe. For the last 2 years I've used Motul 300V Chrono Racing (10w40) or Competition (15w50) racing (winter/summer respectively) but thats on a highly strung twin turbo engine that doesn't get given an easy life. At roughly $150/change/5000kms it's not everyones cup of tea but when engine failures can cost in excess of $8000
then .. good insurance policy. I've got some of the longest surviving stock turbos on a modified engine, the only reason we can think that they haven't died is the oil. My personal vote is and will stay with Motul stuff.
Rowan
Steve Easdon wrote:
[...]
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