Help - Automatic NA6 Christchurch

Discussion about MX5s, Roadsters & Miatas, not directly fitting into one of the categories below. Please keep it on topic.

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jspence
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Help - Automatic NA6 Christchurch

Post by jspence » Sun Sep 15, 2013 1:56 pm

Hi, I have been converting my 1993 NA 1.6 MX5 to electric, and am nearly ready to take it for certification. It is very slightly heavier than it was originally, but it will be OK, if I can show the weight of a standard model with all the options fitted.

What I would like to do is borrow an Automatic 1.6 MX5 with AC and power steering, and take it over a weighbridge to get the weight. I can borrow a Hard Top temporarily to get the maximum weight.

If anyone in Christchurch or nearby can help me it would be much appreciated. I will fill it up with fuel for you.

My number is 021 503020

Thanks
John

jspence
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Post by jspence » Sun Sep 15, 2013 2:01 pm

Engine Bay - Hmmm I don't seem to be able to upload images. You will just have to take my word for it

brownie
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Post by brownie » Sun Sep 15, 2013 11:08 pm

Take his word for it,VERY COOL,seen in the flesh myself,i will upload a couple of pic's we took at work when John called in,
So long as you don't mind John

mazline
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Post by mazline » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:22 pm

photo's of the car
Attachments
IMG_8510.JPG
IMG_8508.JPG
Here to help with any needs for your beloved MX5/Roadster.

Furai
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Post by Furai » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:33 pm

Wow thats different! We were just talking about this on Facebook actually...

Whats performance like? Range and speed?

MrGrey
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Post by MrGrey » Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:07 pm

that is seriously awesome!

jspence
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Post by jspence » Tue Sep 17, 2013 11:00 pm

The torque is 100Nm from 0 to 4200rpm, then it tapers off. Which is different from the curve around 5000 rpm with the original engine. The power is 74kW.

What this means is that it is quite different to drive as you have full torque from when the motor is stopped. I don't need to use the clutch to start or stop. It will pull away from completely stopped in 5th gear. You can drive it like a conventional car using all the gears and the acceleration will be better than standard. Alternatively I have found 3rd gear is really good around town and I just leave it there unless I am in a hurry. 5th gear is great on the open road.

Currently the range is about 130km on a charge with a 50/50 mix of town and open road. This still leaves another 20% reserve in the batteries. The cost do travel this distance is about $3.50 in electricity. There is an exemption for road user charges foe electric vehicles until 2020, so there are no other costs.

Charging from my wall socket will take about 7 hours overnight. The batteries are capable of being fully charged in 20 minutes, I just don't have a power source capable of doing it at home. Realistically it can't really travel city to city. But is ideal for someone with a long commute.

You would be absolutely amazed how good the electric motor performs compared to petrol. The torque is always there and they are so silent and smooth. The motor is tiny as well only 225mm diameter and 350mm long with roller bearings at each end and no wearing parts.

tomtikki
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Post by tomtikki » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:34 am

I absolutely love the idea of an electric car!
Yours has an almost factory finish under the bonnet, well done.
No doubt quite satisfying to drive about.
I very rarely travel more than 130km in a day but if I did (at my current mileage rate) it would cost me $23...

I'm sure you get peppered with questions about it all the time but it is a very exciting prospect as fuel prices will only ever go up!
I assume you still have wof & rego, what about a electric cert like what camper vans need for 240v hook up? -Ive heard about them but dunno what it is?

I guess the biggest argument against is battery lifespan/replacement and disposal, yours look brand new so what can you expect out of them?
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.

jspence
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Post by jspence » Wed Sep 18, 2013 9:12 pm

At present I am getting ready for certification. There are a set of regulations that need to be followed available from LVVTA.

I don't an electrical WOF as the charger wont be installed in the car and therefore no mains voltage will be in the car. After Certification I will just need to get standard WOF and Reg.

The batteries will reduce in capacity to 80% after 3000 charges. If I charge it twice a week the batteries will last about 28 years.

tomtikki
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Post by tomtikki » Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:03 pm

jspence wrote:The batteries will reduce in capacity to 80% after 3000 charges. If I charge it twice a week the batteries will last about 28 years.
3000 charges before the batts even drop to 80%!!
Now I failed maths but my calculator tells me at 130km per charge is 390000km.
Ok and at $3.50 a charge that equals $10,500.

To do the same distance with petrol (at 0.18c per km) equals $70,200!!
And that .18c amount is if your MX5 actually does 450km a tank!

Have I worked that out correctly?!

plus there's no oils changes, spark plugs, coolant....
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.

marcellarius
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Post by marcellarius » Thu Sep 19, 2013 1:08 pm

It will be interesting to see how well they hold up in practice.

I think if I was building an electric sportscar I'd go for a more powerful motor and then probably get bugger all range and put big loads on my batteries by shredding tyres through first and second gear all the time :)

Furai
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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 19, 2013 2:13 pm

But. Does it drift? :lol:

brooke5
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Post by brooke5 » Tue Oct 01, 2013 10:48 am

That is so cool! Props
'89 JDM NA6 - Stock-ish for now
'96 Celica - Because DD

evel
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Post by evel » Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:23 pm

Furai wrote:But. Does it drift? :lol:
Would probably drift like a champion, dat torque
'94 S-Special 1800 in BLACK
Flares and 225/45 Semi Slicks.

marcellarius
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Post by marcellarius » Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:47 pm

evel wrote:Would probably drift like a champion, dat torque
I wouldn't think it would be much better than a stock NA6; which, looking at dyno runs can maintain at least 100Nm from 2-6k rpm.

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