Aircon Regas
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Aircon Regas
Anyone help with a place to get my aircon regassed in he Auckland area please, doesn't get cold anymore. The revs hunt when turned on, second fan spins but no real cold air flow.
Cheers,
Thebears
Cheers,
Thebears
IN: 2005 2.0NC Limited No 2482 of 3500 Worldwide: Grey: Red Leather: Bose: LSD: Tints: Full Milltek Exhaust
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you will probably need to convert your R12 system to r134A this can be costly as the seals will tend to perish with the new lubricant and leak
here is something that came up on a quick google search:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2334672
could try Ben at AUTOAIR he is mobile also
0800288624
here is something that came up on a quick google search:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2334672
could try Ben at AUTOAIR he is mobile also
0800288624
It did have some work done to the condenser just before i brought it, so hopefully may have already been converted. Otherwise its gonna be a roof down car onlysprsta wrote:you will probably need to convert your R12 system to r134A this can be costly as the seals will tend to perish with the new lubricant and leak
here is something that came up on a quick google search:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2334672
could try Ben at AUTOAIR he is mobile also
0800288624
IN: 2005 2.0NC Limited No 2482 of 3500 Worldwide: Grey: Red Leather: Bose: LSD: Tints: Full Milltek Exhaust
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I used a Grab One voucher for $89, normal price $200.
Jay Bee Auto electrical, 55 Stoddard Rd Mt Roskill.
The vouchers come up roughly monthly.
They had some problems with my A/C as it was cycling much too fast, turned out that the recommended capacity to refill was excessive. The book said 650cc but I found out later that the Mazda manual said 600cc. They drained and refilled twice, then rang another "expert" for advice. The answer was to fill with less and put in 550cc. The A/C works a treat now.
The book is the bible that they all use and it specs 650cc for the NA and NB.
Wherever you go, make sure that it is refilled with 600cc or slightly less.
I went back and told them what I had found from the Mazda manual, they were very appreciative.
I have a 1600 NB.
Jay Bee Auto electrical, 55 Stoddard Rd Mt Roskill.
The vouchers come up roughly monthly.
They had some problems with my A/C as it was cycling much too fast, turned out that the recommended capacity to refill was excessive. The book said 650cc but I found out later that the Mazda manual said 600cc. They drained and refilled twice, then rang another "expert" for advice. The answer was to fill with less and put in 550cc. The A/C works a treat now.
The book is the bible that they all use and it specs 650cc for the NA and NB.
Wherever you go, make sure that it is refilled with 600cc or slightly less.
I went back and told them what I had found from the Mazda manual, they were very appreciative.
I have a 1600 NB.
Kevin 2010 NC PRHT. (98 NB6C sold)
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I acquired a jug of r406a today so will be topping up my AC on Sunday. That will sort the condensation of the plastic rear screen on cooler nights if its only a gas issue. 406 is a direct drop in for 12. No need to change oil.... Getting harder to source the old school refrigerants these days unless you are in the KNOW otherwise you are in the NO.
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There are a few factors which can affect the AC performance. The gas should be evaporating at approxzero degrees Celsius. When you turn your AC on the revs will drop due to the increased load. This is assuming that the electric clutch is engaging and the compressor starts to pump. This is the first ting to check. A congested coil also impedes performance. If blocked or the condenser fan does not run it will under condense( not form a liquid). The liquid then passes through the metering device(valve,orifice,or capillary). This drops the pressure of the liquid(which in turn drops temp... Direct corilation
between temp and pressure). The reduced lpressurised liquid then passes through the evaporator coil(behind dash) and the fan blows the heat(cold heat) from the liquid forcing it to evaporate back to a vapour and then returning to the suction side(low pressure) of the compressor..... The common faults that impede the performance is compressor not pumping. Low gas or restricted gas flow(blocked filter drier often). These can have a little sight glass on them. This should not be flashing(looks like bubbles to untrained eye). This is actually vapour instead of a full charge of liquid..... Faulty fans either on condenser coil(in front of radiator) or evap coil..... The evap coils can also get blocked with carpet fluff and debris from the cockpit. Access the coil and brush coil fins clear with a soft brush if you can get to it.... This a brief overview of how AC system works without boring you too much.... Sme people have trouble with zero degrees being referred to as heat.... It is compared to the Antarctic. It's all relevant to the scale of range you are thinking about.
between temp and pressure). The reduced lpressurised liquid then passes through the evaporator coil(behind dash) and the fan blows the heat(cold heat) from the liquid forcing it to evaporate back to a vapour and then returning to the suction side(low pressure) of the compressor..... The common faults that impede the performance is compressor not pumping. Low gas or restricted gas flow(blocked filter drier often). These can have a little sight glass on them. This should not be flashing(looks like bubbles to untrained eye). This is actually vapour instead of a full charge of liquid..... Faulty fans either on condenser coil(in front of radiator) or evap coil..... The evap coils can also get blocked with carpet fluff and debris from the cockpit. Access the coil and brush coil fins clear with a soft brush if you can get to it.... This a brief overview of how AC system works without boring you too much.... Sme people have trouble with zero degrees being referred to as heat.... It is compared to the Antarctic. It's all relevant to the scale of range you are thinking about.
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The pipe work of an AC system is sealed so if you ever pull components off there are steps you need to take to reinstate it. Moisture is a killer to the system. Due to the fact that sub zeo temps are generated the moisture freezes blocking up pipes valves driers etc. once a system is put back you need to evacuate the system.... This is done with a special vacuum pump. Moisture does not exist in a vacuum so this is ideal scenario. Once a vacuum is pulled you should leave it with vac analyser on it to confirm that there are no leaks.... If its leaking the vacuum will rise. The speed of the rise is relevant to the size of the leak. Once a good seal is confirmed the inserted charge should remain healthy for some time. The flexible rubber connections are slightly porous so after time the charge can dwindle. Also from rubber seals. These seals can be affected by the oils In use. I'm sure most have read the other threads dealing with the different oils used in an original r12 system and then rero fitting to r134a. This is when the oil needs to be changed over...$$$$.... A direct drop in is easiest option but getting more difficult to source EFFICIENT drop in gas
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I remember reading a thread that someone had used a gas charge of 550 gramms to get their AC performing...... This morning I went through system analysis and recharged my NA. I used the 550 gram as learnt by someone else...the system runs with a flashing sight glass and pulls into a vacuum (a symptom of undercharge).. I then checked the link that SLYDIT kindly posted for Miata service manuals. This stipulates 28 oz charge which equates to 793.79 gramms..... If a system runs undercharged the evaporating temp is much lower than zero and WILL form icing on the evap coil. It's impedes airflow and WILL cause more ice build up.... Once the liquid sunshine stops outside I will top charge up to the Miata spec and reassess its performance. I have taken sequential pics which will be posted when time permits for those interested in seeing.
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