Also depends on what cam cover your running, However I have copies of plates to suit BPT, MX5 and MX5 VVT.REDBEN wrote:I do have all the info on the conversion including the drawings on solid works which I can get laser cut cost me $35 for the plate to be cut out of 3mm Stainless, I can get the Coils from Repco not cheap but brand new and then you need the fitting bushes to be made up I made them on the lathe at work could make you a set if youd like? Then for plugs you just get them from Strong for Honda. PM if you need more details.Born_disturbed wrote:Ha yeah Chris is definitely a GC. Which remind ms i need to ask him about that COP setupREDBEN wrote:Haha Cheers I got in contact with Chris as soon as his car came out in NZPC He's been a huge help with my build especially with the K20A Coil on plug set up. He's a pretty helpful guy. People like that hard to come by these days.
MX5 High HP Build Thread
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Ok so here's this month's update..... I recently picked up a NA8 complete rear subframe with the kinder surprise feeling of what type of diff was in the Housing. So I opened it up to find a Clutch type in a near new condition apart from some dried out oil seals.
Sadly I could not say the same for the Sub-frame and arms, rust everywhere! So over the coming weekends the lot will be tossed into the Sand blasting cabinet along with a new coat of low gloss black.
All the old bushes were struggling to keep the rear end together, So I pressed out the prunes and purchased a Energy Suspension Master Kit from 949 Racing which should lock the rear end up a bit more.
As for stopping power in the rear I didn't think the Single pot Calipers were really going to be up to the Task. I went with a set of Wilwood Dynalite singles to bite into Znoelli Slotted rotors. Now just to machine up a pair of adapter brackets.
Photo's to come.
Till Next Month....
Sadly I could not say the same for the Sub-frame and arms, rust everywhere! So over the coming weekends the lot will be tossed into the Sand blasting cabinet along with a new coat of low gloss black.
All the old bushes were struggling to keep the rear end together, So I pressed out the prunes and purchased a Energy Suspension Master Kit from 949 Racing which should lock the rear end up a bit more.
As for stopping power in the rear I didn't think the Single pot Calipers were really going to be up to the Task. I went with a set of Wilwood Dynalite singles to bite into Znoelli Slotted rotors. Now just to machine up a pair of adapter brackets.
Photo's to come.

Till Next Month....
I think you would have been surprised by the stopping power that the rears can provide with the right set of pads, I run my car around Hamptons, which is really rough on brakes, and for all my issues with brakes, it has all been to do with the fronts, not the rears.
I was running the 1.6 calipers, but change to the 280mm sport brakes and rotors, but managed to destroy those, but that was due to my own stupidity, not a fault of the brakes.
Either way, guess you have got the calipers now, so will have to put in a hydraulic handbrake as well now?
I was running the 1.6 calipers, but change to the 280mm sport brakes and rotors, but managed to destroy those, but that was due to my own stupidity, not a fault of the brakes.
Either way, guess you have got the calipers now, so will have to put in a hydraulic handbrake as well now?
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The Reason I went to Wilwood Calipers was also due to not having any 1.8L calipers with that subframe.Donovan wrote:I think you would have been surprised by the stopping power that the rears can provide with the right set of pads, I run my car around Hamptons, which is really rough on brakes, and for all my issues with brakes, it has all been to do with the fronts, not the rears.
I was running the 1.6 calipers, but change to the 280mm sport brakes and rotors, but managed to destroy those, but that was due to my own stupidity, not a fault of the brakes.
Either way, guess you have got the calipers now, so will have to put in a hydraulic handbrake as well now?
However you have caught me out, I had not thought of the hand brake side of things. I guess I will be putting a hydraulic handbrake in.

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Tonight I under took the disassemble of my rear hubs for rebuild(not for fun I assure you!), I will not lie this process will take a good portion of your soul!

As for the Diff It got new oil seals all round, the aluminium housing sandblasted and a coat of Gun metal grey. Along with some energy suspension diff mounts.

Whitelign sway bar to come Wednesday

As for the Diff It got new oil seals all round, the aluminium housing sandblasted and a coat of Gun metal grey. Along with some energy suspension diff mounts.

Whitelign sway bar to come Wednesday

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Ran a best time of 17.22 with an RT of 0.22 So was a pretty good night despite the little 1.6 brakes not pulling up at the end, having to use the hand brake to stop, not to mention the gearing ratio needs changing, ended up through the line in 3rd on limiter on 3 passes with top speed of 129kmh
Did some pretty average skids too not to bad for a first attempt til the 16 Next round
Did some pretty average skids too not to bad for a first attempt til the 16 Next round

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New Diff and sub frame are all in, was a bit of a mission but thanks to Kieran and ryanhorton1973 we got it all in by the end of the day on Saturday.
Whiles the old NA6 Rear sub frame was out I took the opportunity to clean under both wheel arches and rear end of the car then laid down some new under body sealer.
After putting the new Diff and energy suspension bushes the car She is a new beast all together. The Diff is super tight and feels really good from only driven 15Km home until Wheel Alignment on Thursday. When purchasing the original sub frame from Mazspares I was unsure of what diff was inside, I opened it up to find a Clutch pack type diff, The diff is super aggressive and feels much like a Lock diff but with out the groans.
The rear Brakes were in a rather sad state so we replaced both rotors and new Bendix Brake pads along with Penrite Racing Brake fluid.
With the new diff in I will be looking to drop into the late 16's on the Quarter Mile before the new motor goes in, in the following months I have changed my plan for the power plant and will be keeping it top secret until later down the year.
Once again Thanks to Ryan and Kieran for their help on Saturday these guys are both right Legends
Kieran has pics of the install so hopefully He can post it up
Whiles the old NA6 Rear sub frame was out I took the opportunity to clean under both wheel arches and rear end of the car then laid down some new under body sealer.
After putting the new Diff and energy suspension bushes the car She is a new beast all together. The Diff is super tight and feels really good from only driven 15Km home until Wheel Alignment on Thursday. When purchasing the original sub frame from Mazspares I was unsure of what diff was inside, I opened it up to find a Clutch pack type diff, The diff is super aggressive and feels much like a Lock diff but with out the groans.
The rear Brakes were in a rather sad state so we replaced both rotors and new Bendix Brake pads along with Penrite Racing Brake fluid.
With the new diff in I will be looking to drop into the late 16's on the Quarter Mile before the new motor goes in, in the following months I have changed my plan for the power plant and will be keeping it top secret until later down the year.

Once again Thanks to Ryan and Kieran for their help on Saturday these guys are both right Legends

Kieran has pics of the install so hopefully He can post it up

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Out with the old in with the new
Spent the Day hauling out the little B6 making room for the new motor and turbo setup engine bay looks super empty now too.


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Spent the night putting in the BPT fabrication block, as you can see everything looks pretty rough at the moment but will look better as time goes by....


Now with the block in I get a pretty good idea that fitting the turbo with a topmount manifold is going to be next to impossible with the powersteering still there... So I may end up moving to a non-powersteering rack.

Mind you in saying that not completely impossible NB with topmount



Now with the block in I get a pretty good idea that fitting the turbo with a topmount manifold is going to be next to impossible with the powersteering still there... So I may end up moving to a non-powersteering rack.

Mind you in saying that not completely impossible NB with topmount

1991 NA6 Mariner Blue with a twist of BP
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Wow Ben, that is some impressive work! it looks great!
I am super jelly!
oh and don't worry too much about the radioactive drum leaks, just make sure your deal with it in a safe and responsible manner..... like covering it in a tarp and hoping no one notices. I do think its a great idea having them in close proximity to your car tho' ..... it allows you to work on your tan whilst working on your car!
multitasking like a boss!
I am super jelly!
oh and don't worry too much about the radioactive drum leaks, just make sure your deal with it in a safe and responsible manner..... like covering it in a tarp and hoping no one notices. I do think its a great idea having them in close proximity to your car tho' ..... it allows you to work on your tan whilst working on your car!
multitasking like a boss!
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This guy has to much experience with radioactive equipment. His batmobile keeps getting fake hair stuck in the fake vetsMrGrey wrote:Wow Ben, that is some impressive work! it looks great!
I am super jelly!
oh and don't worry too much about the radioactive drum leaks, just make sure your deal with it in a safe and responsible manner..... like covering it in a tarp and hoping no one notices. I do think its a great idea having them in close proximity to your car tho' ..... it allows you to work on your tan whilst working on your car!
multitasking like a boss!

Looking good Ben!
1 X Primera
2 X Silvia
1 X BMW E30
1 X Audi A6
3 X Mazda MX5 (1989, 1990, 1991)
2 X Silvia
1 X BMW E30
1 X Audi A6
3 X Mazda MX5 (1989, 1990, 1991)
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