PrePurchase Inspection Wellington

[iracer]

Hello,
Am looking at buying my first MX5 - probably going to be a NA model to fit the budget and from what I can see most of these are 1990 models. So far only looked at a couple and test driven one. Therefore hard to make a basis for comparison although it did seem to have good power. (Suspension felt a bit hard but I dont know if thats normal.) I'm resigned to the fact it will probably have to be a short nose crank version but I do want power steering.
Anyway since I'm not very mechanical any vehicle I want to pursue will need a pre-purchase inspection. Any recommendations for garages/places that are particularly knowledgeable about MX5's. The AA is a bit pricey at $160 for non-members.
I do know there is a checkist online that one can print off but still need someone with more knowldege than I have.
Also re the short crank. I read the info on the net, but just to confirm - you can simply unscrew the bolt without taking other stuff off and replace the bolt and key with some loctite without having to redo adjustments etc? provided the bolt etc is OK? = 10 minute job?

[WideOpenThrottle]

The bolt needs 80 to 87 ft/lbs of torque to tighten it & really the best way is to lock the flywheel teeth! Many do not have crank nose problems so if it ain't broke don't fix it if you ask me [my car has done nearly 300 thou & the key way is still sweet-as]!

[Mad Kiwi]

I agree, my short nose is fine (touch wood it stays that way...) running a turbo. I would only do it if it is a problem.

Good luck with the purchase, they are GREAT fun cars.

[WideOpenThrottle]

One thing i would do if buying another MX5 is too have a compression test done as while was looking for a replacement engine for mine i found not one from a wrecker that had good or even readings so ended up reconditioning my blown one [turbo & Pukekohe to thank for that]!

The NA's do have a habit of running hot/lean on NO's 3 & 4 cylinders and the compression suffers a bit if the cars have, i suspect, been used consistently in high rpm.

Some suffer hydraulic lifter tick at idle especially when cold/old oil but this is more annoying than anything.
You can get rear brake rattle as well as noisy drive-train on de-acceleration.
The soft-top drains can block so look out for dampness behind the seats.
Top radiator hose needs to be soft when cold to prevent the plastic neck cracking from engine vibration.
Generaly they are all very reliable but do have their quirks.

[Kieran]

Also if the gearbox has a rattle to it just ignore it youll know if is broken

[Bwarp]

in wellington I would say hit up Brendon Motors Khandallah (if you are northern suburbs way) for a pre-purchase inspection. They've always treated me real well, and do things for a really good realistic price.