Looking for an MX5, help please!
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Looking for an MX5, help please!
Hi everyone,
My girlfriend and I are looking at purchasing an NA6 (or an NA8 if we can find one for cheap enough) for a fun car. I haven't had one before, but have always wanted one, so when she said she was interested it was all go!
We're ideally looking for something under $3,000 for an NA6, less if it needs work. It seems that the prices have all gone up since I had a look early this year! I don't mind getting my hands dirty as I have a BMW E30 race car that constantly requires attention! So most home-job mechanic type problems shouldn't be such an issue.
So I guess now is the bit I ask all the newbie questions:
1) Are there any problems associated with the NA6? I have read about the Crank pulley problem and it is quite a scary prospect. However, all the literature that I have read on it has been American. How common is this in New Zealand?
2) Are parts in general fairly expensive? I see hardtops are $1000-$2000!!!
3) The MX5's seem to be very sensitive to offset and wheel choice from what I read online. This is a pity as I have some very nice BBS's at 25p 15x7 that I thought would've filled the guards out nicely. What kind of issues are there when going to a lower offset? I've gone from 35p 6" to 13p 8" on the race car and the wider track has improved basically everything when the alignment was altered to suit the wider track.
4) Are there any outstanding tips when buying an NA6? I have seen the checklist and article on Miata website which seems very comprehensive!
5) Finally, (this is a long shot) would anyone be willing to show us their car and talk us through the plusses and minusses of MX5 ownership? We are based on the North Shore.
Thanks for taking time to read my long post. I hope to meet some of you in the near future!
My girlfriend and I are looking at purchasing an NA6 (or an NA8 if we can find one for cheap enough) for a fun car. I haven't had one before, but have always wanted one, so when she said she was interested it was all go!
We're ideally looking for something under $3,000 for an NA6, less if it needs work. It seems that the prices have all gone up since I had a look early this year! I don't mind getting my hands dirty as I have a BMW E30 race car that constantly requires attention! So most home-job mechanic type problems shouldn't be such an issue.
So I guess now is the bit I ask all the newbie questions:
1) Are there any problems associated with the NA6? I have read about the Crank pulley problem and it is quite a scary prospect. However, all the literature that I have read on it has been American. How common is this in New Zealand?
2) Are parts in general fairly expensive? I see hardtops are $1000-$2000!!!
3) The MX5's seem to be very sensitive to offset and wheel choice from what I read online. This is a pity as I have some very nice BBS's at 25p 15x7 that I thought would've filled the guards out nicely. What kind of issues are there when going to a lower offset? I've gone from 35p 6" to 13p 8" on the race car and the wider track has improved basically everything when the alignment was altered to suit the wider track.
4) Are there any outstanding tips when buying an NA6? I have seen the checklist and article on Miata website which seems very comprehensive!
5) Finally, (this is a long shot) would anyone be willing to show us their car and talk us through the plusses and minusses of MX5 ownership? We are based on the North Shore.
Thanks for taking time to read my long post. I hope to meet some of you in the near future!
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- Yes. I might just know (Trusted Advisor)
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Re: Looking for an MX5, help please!
OK...
1. The crank pulley problem is only an issue with the earlier cars (89 - half way through 91). The keyway on the crank nose is too short. Sometimes this can flog out which stuffs your cam timing up. I have two long blocks at home where I can show you the crank nose.
The easiest fix is to do an engine swap. I have done 5 members cars now - including my own.
2. Thats about right for a hard top. Parst are generally plentyful but pays to shop around. Ideally try and buy a car where they are selling the hardtop with it.
3. I'm not too worried about offset. My main concern with running a wider track is putting more strain on the wheel bearings. In saying this 5mm either way isn't going to do much harm at all. The other thing to watch out for is wheel clearance (Not hitting the strut or inner guard).
4. The other main problem with the earlier ones are the rear calipers. Sometimes they can seize. It's a reletively easy fix but getting the individual parts can be an issue.
Rust isn't too much of an issue. They main area that I have seen is under the stainless steel scuff plates but the doors if they have them.
Other than that if the owner has done regular maintenance it should be good.
5. I'm out West Auckland so if you want to stop by just send me a pm on this forum and I can arrange a time.
1. The crank pulley problem is only an issue with the earlier cars (89 - half way through 91). The keyway on the crank nose is too short. Sometimes this can flog out which stuffs your cam timing up. I have two long blocks at home where I can show you the crank nose.
The easiest fix is to do an engine swap. I have done 5 members cars now - including my own.
2. Thats about right for a hard top. Parst are generally plentyful but pays to shop around. Ideally try and buy a car where they are selling the hardtop with it.
3. I'm not too worried about offset. My main concern with running a wider track is putting more strain on the wheel bearings. In saying this 5mm either way isn't going to do much harm at all. The other thing to watch out for is wheel clearance (Not hitting the strut or inner guard).
4. The other main problem with the earlier ones are the rear calipers. Sometimes they can seize. It's a reletively easy fix but getting the individual parts can be an issue.
Rust isn't too much of an issue. They main area that I have seen is under the stainless steel scuff plates but the doors if they have them.
Other than that if the owner has done regular maintenance it should be good.
5. I'm out West Auckland so if you want to stop by just send me a pm on this forum and I can arrange a time.
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Looking for an MX5, help please!
hiya
2/ parts are generally reasonable, especially if you're coming from a
BMW ! I've seen the odd hardtop for ~$750 for example. Various
bits come from 323's, and RX7s which helps.
3/ sensitive to weight perhaps, I wouldnt lose any sleep over a minor
offset change like that tho !
5/ happy to show you mine, I work at Smales Farm (it's for sale, but
no pressure there... different price bracket)
cheers-
Jeff
2/ parts are generally reasonable, especially if you're coming from a
BMW ! I've seen the odd hardtop for ~$750 for example. Various
bits come from 323's, and RX7s which helps.
3/ sensitive to weight perhaps, I wouldnt lose any sleep over a minor
offset change like that tho !
5/ happy to show you mine, I work at Smales Farm (it's for sale, but
no pressure there... different price bracket)
cheers-
Jeff
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- Black is the new black.
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Looking for an MX5, help please!
on 4/11/2008 7:12 p.m. JiB wrote:
back. You cannot import early model Roadsters any more so the early
ones here tend to be holding their value. Simple just sold his on
Trademe for about $2.5k, so you can get them. His was a great early
model, but really needed a new roof (~$700-$1500 depending on install
and quality), and probably a new paint touch up.
The MX5 is not terribly complex, so as long as the maintenance is done,
they seem to last a very long time.
problems are uncommon though.
Problems I've had since 1999 are loss of power due to failed plug leads
(5 minute fix - once I knew what the issue was... this is common),
coolant leak in a couple of copper pipe joins due to vibration (one had
a 'temporary' fix for 18 months), sticky rear callipers due to not
enough regular maintenance - lost clutch (a flush of fluid fixed it -
likely moisture buildup), Alternator mounting bolt dropped and car lost
charging ability... a 'temp' fix with another bolt now for ~6 years.
as you can fix it with a couple of bodgy solutions, or just replace the
engine as Growler recommends (My mechanical abilities have never
stretched that far but I think Growler has done about 5 now?). Reco'd
or second hand NA6 engines seem to go for about $700 last time I looked.
Also a good excuse to pop in a 1.8 whilst you are there...
some links here:
http://www.mx5forum.co.nz/viewtopic.php?t=8423
http://www.mx5forum.co.nz/viewforum.php?f=34
years ago, and I have seen them as low as $700. A new one would be
closer to $4k. It is not an essential item though, so if you buy a $2k
car do you really need a $1k Hard top? The soft roof works perfectly
well and won't leak if in ok condition.
There are a few second hand parts places around with good prices, and
some after market stuff. There are few import regulations on parts and
wrecks so parts seem to be available easily.
has been bubbling away on MX5 forums and lists since the early 90s.
I've never seen or heard any hard evidence of early bearing failure or
other mechanical problems specifically because of smaller offset. It
might change the handling though with a wider footprint, which you may
or may not like.
volunteers - see Growler on the shore (take Beer
Incidentally, it is good that you are asking questions before buying...
so many people pop up after they buy one!
cheers
Hi & welcomeMy girlfriend and I are looking at purchasing an NA6 (or an NA8 if we
can find one for cheap enough)
Prices have gone up since the changes to import regulations a few yearsWe're ideally looking for something under $3,000 for an NA6, less if it
needs work. It seems that the prices have all gone up since I had a look
early this year! I don't mind getting my hands dirty as I have a BMW E30
race car that constantly requires attention! So most home-job mechanic
type problems shouldn't be such an issue.
back. You cannot import early model Roadsters any more so the early
ones here tend to be holding their value. Simple just sold his on
Trademe for about $2.5k, so you can get them. His was a great early
model, but really needed a new roof (~$700-$1500 depending on install
and quality), and probably a new paint touch up.
The MX5 is not terribly complex, so as long as the maintenance is done,
they seem to last a very long time.
Pretty much as listed on the US Miata site - similar issues here. MajorAre there any problems associated with the NA6?
problems are uncommon though.
Problems I've had since 1999 are loss of power due to failed plug leads
(5 minute fix - once I knew what the issue was... this is common),
coolant leak in a couple of copper pipe joins due to vibration (one had
a 'temporary' fix for 18 months), sticky rear callipers due to not
enough regular maintenance - lost clutch (a flush of fluid fixed it -
likely moisture buildup), Alternator mounting bolt dropped and car lost
charging ability... a 'temp' fix with another bolt now for ~6 years.
It can be a problem on 1989 - mid 91 models. Don't be scared though -I have read about the
Crank pulley problem and it is quite a scary prospect. However, all the
literature that I have read on it has been American. How common is this
in New Zealand?
as you can fix it with a couple of bodgy solutions, or just replace the
engine as Growler recommends (My mechanical abilities have never
stretched that far but I think Growler has done about 5 now?). Reco'd
or second hand NA6 engines seem to go for about $700 last time I looked.
Also a good excuse to pop in a 1.8 whilst you are there...
some links here:
http://www.mx5forum.co.nz/viewtopic.php?t=8423
http://www.mx5forum.co.nz/viewforum.php?f=34
depends what you call expensive... I got a hardtop for $1000 a number of2) Are parts in general fairly expensive? I see hardtops are $1000-$2000!!!
years ago, and I have seen them as low as $700. A new one would be
closer to $4k. It is not an essential item though, so if you buy a $2k
car do you really need a $1k Hard top? The soft roof works perfectly
well and won't leak if in ok condition.
There are a few second hand parts places around with good prices, and
some after market stuff. There are few import regulations on parts and
wrecks so parts seem to be available easily.
I wouldn't worry too much about it - it is one of those discussions thatThe MX5's seem to be very sensitive to offset and wheel choice from
what I read online. This is a pity as I have some very nice BBS's at 25p
15x7 that I thought would've filled the guards out nicely. What kind of
issues are there when going to a lower offset? I've gone from 35p 6" to
13p 8" on the race car and the wider track has improved basically
everything when the alignment was altered to suit the wider track.
has been bubbling away on MX5 forums and lists since the early 90s.
I've never seen or heard any hard evidence of early bearing failure or
other mechanical problems specifically because of smaller offset. It
might change the handling though with a wider footprint, which you may
or may not like.
I'm East... and my MX is in the shop, but I suggest if no one else5) Finally, (this is a long shot) would anyone be willing to show us
their car and talk us through the plusses and minusses of MX5 ownership?
We are based on the North Shore.
volunteers - see Growler on the shore (take Beer
Incidentally, it is good that you are asking questions before buying...
so many people pop up after they buy one!
cheers
(z)
Hi again, all.
First of all apologies to Gaz for not purchasing his NA6 last year.
Secondly, have just picked up a NA8 from a nice gentleman who upgraded to an NC, apparently it's a Mazspeed one, with the gear knob, pedals, suede seats, momo wheel, etc.
Eitherway, it's fantastic to drive - I dare say it's more fun to drive than my race car in some respects.
Has a tonneau cover, and a HKS exhaust as well. Have quite a few things to tidy up though namely a service and seatbelts, possibly some better shocks.
Am also looking for some decent wheels if anyone can point me in the right direction. Am a fan of forged wheels - currently have Volk SE37k's and SSR Type C's but both are in the wrong stud pattern
First of all apologies to Gaz for not purchasing his NA6 last year.
Secondly, have just picked up a NA8 from a nice gentleman who upgraded to an NC, apparently it's a Mazspeed one, with the gear knob, pedals, suede seats, momo wheel, etc.
Eitherway, it's fantastic to drive - I dare say it's more fun to drive than my race car in some respects.
Has a tonneau cover, and a HKS exhaust as well. Have quite a few things to tidy up though namely a service and seatbelts, possibly some better shocks.
Am also looking for some decent wheels if anyone can point me in the right direction. Am a fan of forged wheels - currently have Volk SE37k's and SSR Type C's but both are in the wrong stud pattern
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Grrr.... ha ha no worries went to another forum member who is converting to a 13B as we speak. Glad you found one you liked and worth the wait, looks like a great car, sadly only Z likes the black one'sJiB wrote:First of all apologies to Gaz for not purchasing his NA6 last year
The few Mazda speed bits give them that nice collectable edge, it's incredible you can have 20 of them all together and they are all different.
Did it come with the plate? I would have thought that would be worth as much as the car.
Wheels - the critical thing is the offset, 35mm??? Anyone confirm??? Jif is a volks fan too. Size wise, I have had 16's and now 17's. The 17's look the best IMHO which is the only one that counts.... but do seem to make the steering a little heavier 215/40/17 and track a lot on any road variances. I had 205/45/16's before and they gave a nicer ride and driveability. Given brand differences I won't comment on stickability.
Gazda in the white HOT Mazda
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40-45mm offset for standard wheels on NA from memory, I'm running Enkei 35mm offset with 195/50R15, probably slightly more tramlining than with the standard 14" but not enough to complain about.poison wrote: Wheels - the critical thing is the offset, 35mm??? Anyone confirm??? Jif is a volks fan too. Size wise, I have had 16's and now 17's. The 17's look the best IMHO which is the only one that counts.... but do seem to make the steering a little heavier 215/40/17 and track a lot on any road variances. I had 205/45/16's before and they gave a nicer ride and driveability. Given brand differences I won't comment on stickability.
Definitely stick with lightweight wheels though, I personally wouldn't go bigger than 15" (or 16" if you don't drive hard on bumpy roads), I reckon 17" wheels make the car look like a rollerskate anyway :p
I must say - MX5 guards are huuuge. I threw on some 16x7.5 25p Schnitzers I had in my garage...and they fit in the guards
But it was a pity that the rim alone was heavier than the factory hollowspoke+tyre. I was actually very very impressed at how light the factory wheel/tyre package was.
I'd like to keep the scrub radius as factory as possible - I think the car is brilliantly setup as is. Spent a coupla hours on the the car yesterday just having a look around (I'm in every sense of the word - a suspension anorak ).
The wishbone setup is brilliant, as is the funny looking subframe that links the powertrain to the diff (took me a while + some googling to find it was the "PowerPlantFrame" ) It's slightly depressing to know, that most of the modifications that I've done on my race car has been done in a better way on the MX5.
Unfortunately, in my undercar adventures I discovered many bushes past their use by date - so new wheels/tyres may have to wait for a bit. I'll wait till I have more time in a month or so before embarking on an overhaul. I think the car would benefit greatly from a new set of bushes, better dampers than a bigger contact patch. And seeing how light the factory wheels are - if I can find good rubber in 14" they may be staying on the car (despite looking like they have terrible fitment )
edit:
Re: Plate, no the car doesn't have that plate, I just mspaint'd the rest of the numbers out. I have a habit of blanking out numberplates when I post cars on the internet - just a precaution I guess.
But it was a pity that the rim alone was heavier than the factory hollowspoke+tyre. I was actually very very impressed at how light the factory wheel/tyre package was.
I'd like to keep the scrub radius as factory as possible - I think the car is brilliantly setup as is. Spent a coupla hours on the the car yesterday just having a look around (I'm in every sense of the word - a suspension anorak ).
The wishbone setup is brilliant, as is the funny looking subframe that links the powertrain to the diff (took me a while + some googling to find it was the "PowerPlantFrame" ) It's slightly depressing to know, that most of the modifications that I've done on my race car has been done in a better way on the MX5.
Unfortunately, in my undercar adventures I discovered many bushes past their use by date - so new wheels/tyres may have to wait for a bit. I'll wait till I have more time in a month or so before embarking on an overhaul. I think the car would benefit greatly from a new set of bushes, better dampers than a bigger contact patch. And seeing how light the factory wheels are - if I can find good rubber in 14" they may be staying on the car (despite looking like they have terrible fitment )
edit:
Re: Plate, no the car doesn't have that plate, I just mspaint'd the rest of the numbers out. I have a habit of blanking out numberplates when I post cars on the internet - just a precaution I guess.
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