Remote central locking
Remote central locking
Hi List
I want to add the above to my 1990. It has a Uniden Alarm. What is the
best way to get this all to happen?
Don
I want to add the above to my 1990. It has a Uniden Alarm. What is the
best way to get this all to happen?
Don
1990 NA with a 1.8 conversion SOLD
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
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Remote central locking
"Don Mikkelsen" <mikkels@> said
central locking outputs available. You can get some basic, solenoids from a
place like Jaycar (in Auckland) for $20 or so, may need a relay to drive
them (Jaycar again). I bought my solenoids from there and they work well,
and have for a couple of years.
Or an alarm place might do it all for $100 or a bit more if you don't want
to do the work yourself.
Do you know the alarm model number? I'm sure someone like Lou would know if
that model supports central locking outputs - most modern alarms do these
days - when was the alarm installed?... or we could find out from Uniden if
it does - or just have a look the unit's wiring...
cheers
H
Depends on how much work you want to do yourself, and if your alarm hasI want to add the above to my 1990. It has a Uniden Alarm. What is the
best way to get this all to happen?
central locking outputs available. You can get some basic, solenoids from a
place like Jaycar (in Auckland) for $20 or so, may need a relay to drive
them (Jaycar again). I bought my solenoids from there and they work well,
and have for a couple of years.
Or an alarm place might do it all for $100 or a bit more if you don't want
to do the work yourself.
Do you know the alarm model number? I'm sure someone like Lou would know if
that model supports central locking outputs - most modern alarms do these
days - when was the alarm installed?... or we could find out from Uniden if
it does - or just have a look the unit's wiring...
cheers
H
(z)
Remote central locking
If you can fit it yourself, get a central lock kit from Jaycar or Dick Smiths.
If not, contact your local Auto Elec or Alarm dealer. God forbid that I should
actually recommend someone on this site. Contact me direct if you want some
names.
Lou
If not, contact your local Auto Elec or Alarm dealer. God forbid that I should
actually recommend someone on this site. Contact me direct if you want some
names.
Lou
Remote central locking
Lou
I'm quivering with anticipation
------- who would you recommend
Regards
Bill
I'm quivering with anticipation

Regards
Bill
Remote central locking
Thanks for the help guys. I'll look up the DSE web site for
info on their product. I have the car in being painted at
the moment so will need to wait to see what model the alarm
is. It was in the car when I purchased it. I will do the
install myself - any tricks? Any info out there on how to
do this?
Thanks
Don
info on their product. I have the car in being painted at
the moment so will need to wait to see what model the alarm
is. It was in the car when I purchased it. I will do the
install myself - any tricks? Any info out there on how to
do this?
Thanks
Don
1990 NA with a 1.8 conversion SOLD
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
Remote central locking
Come on Lou, now we're all quivering with anticipation 
Regards
Bill

Regards
Bill
Remote central locking
When you find out what model the alarm is, contact me or the distributor and
check if it has on-board central lock relays. If it has you'll only need the
door motors.
Lou
check if it has on-board central lock relays. If it has you'll only need the
door motors.
Lou
Remote central locking
The DSE central Locking Kit we used for our MX. The kit comes as a 4-piece
set, so we used two for the doors, and another to make a remote boot
release, with a button hidden down under the dash - it is great, as we used
to have to turn off the engine to get the key if we needed anything from the
boot when the car was running! However, we don't use the button in busy
carparks, as you never know who may be watching! :-O
Use a hairdryer to soften the glue (looks like tar - & sticks like tar!) so
you can take the polythene off the inside of the door to get to the locks.
For a wee while afterwards only one door would lock/unlock, so we had to
bend the rods slightly as it was catching on part of the door frame. I
think they needed a bit of adjustment to make sure they triggered lock as
well as unlock from both doors - trial and error.
Good luck!
set, so we used two for the doors, and another to make a remote boot
release, with a button hidden down under the dash - it is great, as we used
to have to turn off the engine to get the key if we needed anything from the
boot when the car was running! However, we don't use the button in busy
carparks, as you never know who may be watching! :-O
Use a hairdryer to soften the glue (looks like tar - & sticks like tar!) so
you can take the polythene off the inside of the door to get to the locks.
For a wee while afterwards only one door would lock/unlock, so we had to
bend the rods slightly as it was catching on part of the door frame. I
think they needed a bit of adjustment to make sure they triggered lock as
well as unlock from both doors - trial and error.
Good luck!
-
- Black is the new black.
- Posts: 601
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:20 pm
- Location: An Eastern Beach
Remote central locking
I like Jaycar... and you can order online. Bet its cheaper for these too.Thanks for the help guys. I'll look up the DSE web site for
info on their product.
Jaycar is more like Dick Smith was when I was a kid, with lots of cool
components and stuff - not printers and TVs etc.

I know there is a website around somewhere with full pics of someone fittingI will do the
install myself - any tricks? Any info out there on how to
do this?
central locking to an MX5 door. I can't seem to find it with a quick google
though... sorry
There's also a long thread (don't know how useful...) here
http://www.fizzindi.demon.co.uk/centrallock.htm
It is not too hard, but having someone show you where to mount it first is
useful. Don't be afraid to drill holes in the door - I've seen people try
and mount them with existing holes...
Feeding the power cable through the door hinge can be a pain, I recommend
taking the hinge rubber cable boot off fully before attempting to feed the
cables, then use a stiff wire to get the cable through.
Make sure there is a nice seal on the Solenoid's rubber boots. A bit of
silicon sealant around the place can help (and coat where you've drilled.
Some models are only designed to be semi-sealed though - when they activate,
they tend to draw air into the rubber boot, so if there is water around,
they suck that in too. If you can angle with boot pointing downwards in the
door it is better as a lot of water gets into the MX5s doors.
Use stainless self tap screws or nuts/bolts if you can, and/or coat with
silicon sealer when finished.
Use decent cables to power them (Not too much current, but lessens the volt
drop) & solder/heatshrink or properly crimp join the connections.
Where are you located Don? - (I've forgotten...)
cheers
zorruno
(z)
Remote central locking
... and wrap any wires that pass by the sharp-ish edges around the holes in the door, as otherwise it will cut thru the insulation and blow fuses/motors/relays.
Which reminds me, I need to fix my naff wiring up again!
Jeff
zorruno <admin@mx5forum.co.nz> wrote:
Jaycar is more like Dick Smith was when I was a kid, with lots of cool
components and stuff - not printers and TVs etc.
central locking to an MX5 door. I can't seem to find it with a quick google
though... sorry
There's also a long thread (don't know how useful...) here
http://www.fizzindi.demon.co.uk/centrallock.htm
It is not too hard, but having someone show you where to mount it first is
useful. Don't be afraid to drill holes in the door - I've seen people try
and mount them with existing holes...
Feeding the power cable through the door hinge can be a pain, I recommend
taking the hinge rubber cable boot off fully before attempting to feed the
cables, then use a stiff wire to get the cable through.
Make sure there is a nice seal on the Solenoid's rubber boots. A bit of
silicon sealant around the place can help (and coat where you've drilled.
Some models are only designed to be semi-sealed though - when they activate,
they tend to draw air into the rubber boot, so if there is water around,
they suck that in too. If you can angle with boot pointing downwards in the
door it is better as a lot of water gets into the MX5s doors.
Use stainless self tap screws or nuts/bolts if you can, and/or coat with
silicon sealer when finished.
Use decent cables to power them (Not too much current, but lessens the volt
drop) & solder/heatshrink or properly crimp join the connections.
Where are you located Don? - (I've forgotten...)
cheers
zorruno
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Which reminds me, I need to fix my naff wiring up again!
Jeff
zorruno <admin@mx5forum.co.nz> wrote:
I like Jaycar... and you can order online. Bet its cheaper for these too.Thanks for the help guys. I'll look up the DSE web site for
info on their product.
Jaycar is more like Dick Smith was when I was a kid, with lots of cool
components and stuff - not printers and TVs etc.

I know there is a website around somewhere with full pics of someone fittingI will do the
install myself - any tricks? Any info out there on how to
do this?
central locking to an MX5 door. I can't seem to find it with a quick google
though... sorry
There's also a long thread (don't know how useful...) here
http://www.fizzindi.demon.co.uk/centrallock.htm
It is not too hard, but having someone show you where to mount it first is
useful. Don't be afraid to drill holes in the door - I've seen people try
and mount them with existing holes...
Feeding the power cable through the door hinge can be a pain, I recommend
taking the hinge rubber cable boot off fully before attempting to feed the
cables, then use a stiff wire to get the cable through.
Make sure there is a nice seal on the Solenoid's rubber boots. A bit of
silicon sealant around the place can help (and coat where you've drilled.
Some models are only designed to be semi-sealed though - when they activate,
they tend to draw air into the rubber boot, so if there is water around,
they suck that in too. If you can angle with boot pointing downwards in the
door it is better as a lot of water gets into the MX5s doors.
Use stainless self tap screws or nuts/bolts if you can, and/or coat with
silicon sealer when finished.
Use decent cables to power them (Not too much current, but lessens the volt
drop) & solder/heatshrink or properly crimp join the connections.
Where are you located Don? - (I've forgotten...)
cheers
zorruno
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Remote central locking
You may want to think about putting a resistor in the
locking solenoid power lines as they really THUMP the
heck out of the mazda door locks, much more than other
cars ive had. The trick is to use resistors big enough
to lessen the impact but not too big that the
solenoids arent powerful enough to lock the door. I
think some one once suggested a 5 watt 1 k-ohm
resistor.
Glenn "SLYDIT"
locking solenoid power lines as they really THUMP the
heck out of the mazda door locks, much more than other
cars ive had. The trick is to use resistors big enough
to lessen the impact but not too big that the
solenoids arent powerful enough to lock the door. I
think some one once suggested a 5 watt 1 k-ohm
resistor.
Glenn "SLYDIT"
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
Remote central locking
Hi zorruno
Hamilton until the 12th of December then Auckland. I'll be doing the
job after I move. Car is being painted at the moment and, well I guess
I'm meant to be packing.
Don
Hamilton until the 12th of December then Auckland. I'll be doing the
job after I move. Car is being painted at the moment and, well I guess
I'm meant to be packing.
Don
1990 NA with a 1.8 conversion SOLD
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
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