Larger brakes New Subject

brentweaver · Post by **brentweaver** » Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:36 pm

Hi All,
I haven't appeared on the forum for a long time, I'm looking for comments @ experience in fitting the larger '94 on brake rotors etc.
I have read all that I can find on the net, but am still not sure on a few points.(1)Do you get a noticeable difference?
``````(2)What pads are you using now.
(3)Why do you not replace the rear rotors.
(4)What steps have been taken to balance the brake system as far as the front to rear bias proportioning valve if any, has anyone had issues with the rear brakes locking up since the change.
(5)I can get the rotors gold passivated to stop rust, where the pads don't go. Does this treatment last?
Thanks to all, I hope that this is not too long.
brentweaver

Shermio · Post by **Shermio** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:58 pm

I think I can help with a few of the questions....

1) Most people go for the swap for track reasons and many would not notice the difference on the road. The larger the rotor the better braking and also reduces brake fade since there is a larger area on the rotor to cool.

2) I am running on Endless Pads but it's on a NB so we already have the larger brakes, and it's low dust.

3) Most of the braking force is applied to the front, the rears probably don't even go to the full potential even with the smaller rotors.

4) Not quite sure, but I would believe not.

5) I had my rotors painted (Non contact areas) with high temp paint and it looks like new no peel or rust it's been on for 3 Months so far just a quick hose down and no dust

poison · Post by **poison** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:54 pm

The bigger brakes do make a difference in feel/stopping even on the street.

I'm not sure I agree about the cooling either, but that's just based on my opinion and not fact.

But Shermio is right, it's not worth changing the back one's, and I’ve never heard of anyone using a balancing valve either.

And I have also painted the rotor hubs with Hammerite (Direct to rust) and it's looking great after lots of use. All I had to do was wire brush the loose/flaky rust and then just paint it on, it's very thick and gooey so must be good.

AND ALWAYS WEAR AN ASBESTOS RATED MASK and it's probably best to do it outside. Many Japanese brakes pads do still contain asbestos. They did not start to phase out the use of Asbestos in Japan until the late 90's so there are lot of brakes around that still contain Asbestos.

poison · Post by **poison** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:55 pm

Oh sorry forgot to say, credit goes to Greg in his BRG NA for the Hammerite paint idea.

GEEMCB · Post by **GEEMCB** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:18 pm

Cheers, Garry - but I confess that I pinched the idea from - damn - can't remember the name - sorry ! Drives an immaculate '97 VR Special B type. Must place credit where due .......

Regards

brentweaver · Post by **brentweaver** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:54 pm

Thanks for those who replied,
Shermio do the endless pads have a designation,
unfortunateley there does not seem to much info on the proportioning valve, simply put it stops the rears locking first,letting the fronts pull up first so that the car doesnt go into a spin.
Poison,thanks for your comments also, the proportioning valve fitted on the 1.6l is a different part number to the 94 1.8 valve, but no technical info provided.My car has green pads and are the original ones ex Japan. They leave a lot of dust. I have had 4 times that the brakes would not stop me. Just went solid & the car carried on, has been suggested that the booster could be the problem, has anyone had this problem? Lastley did any of you have the changes certified?
Regards, BrentWeaver

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:58 am

If the booster is faulty, you should still have brakes, you will just have to apply a heavier boot as you will have lost the assistance provided by the booster. Do you get any braking at all when the problem occurs?

When the pedal goes solid, is it any firmer than when braking normally or is it the "normal" feel that you get under normal braking. With standard flexible brake lines there will still be a very small amount of sponginess in the pedal under full pressure due to the flexing of the hoses. If the pedal is really solid, something may have seized or jammed. If it was a caliper, you would still get braking but the car may have a tendency to try and swap ends under hard braking due to the lack of braking on one wheel, depending on which wheel it was.

Good luck
Euen

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 2:25 pm

I have read all that I can find on the net, but am still not sure on a few points.
(1)Do you get a noticeable difference?
There will be a difference as the pad area is bigger giving you more braking force. What that differnce is is up to the individual.

(2)What pads are you using now.
I haven't done the change yet but it would depend on what you are using the car for. I would go with a harder pad if you are going to do any track work.

(3)Why do you not replace the rear rotors.
As mentiond before, the majority of the braking is done by the front.

(4)What steps have been taken to balance the brake system as far as the front to rear bias proportioning valve if any, has anyone had issues with the rear brakes locking up since the change.
You don't want to be messing with brake bias etc unless you are intending to be racing the car. Upgrading the front rotors etc with the later model ones won't effect the proprtioning valve etc. There maybe a slight difference in pedal feel but would be minimal.

(5)I can get the rotors gold passivated to stop rust, where the pads don't go. Does this treatment last?
Yes you can. The ones from DBA in Australia are Gold Passivated. If it is done properly it will last.
You could get the whole rotor gold passivated then skim the pad area if you wanted.

Growler.

MN · Post by MN » Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:14 pm

OK I'll go the other way. I've got Mintex pads with the stock 1600 brakes and have no thought to go to the bigger disks - for now. The braking ability of the car is better than my nerve!! I'm braking at the 50 m board from full chat on the front straight of the new Taupo circuit and no trouble getting around the hairpin. It brakes so well the front dips and the rear almost feels as though it wants to leave the ground! - well you know what I mean. Very infrequently will the fronts lock. What would I gain from the bigger brakes? Perhaps longevity in the pads as the fronts last me a year.

Actually I think maybe some of us, well say me, are braking too much. I had run the front right pads to the metal at the end of race 2 at Taupo yesterday but started race 3 anyway (no mechanical sympathies me!) and spent the entire race trying to conserve the brakes and ended up with a lap time 1.2 secs faster than previously, purely I think because I was just not braking as late or hard and letting the car flow better. Stuffed the disk though!!

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:22 pm

Yes...I have the standard pads and discs and I have never run out of brakes at Pukekohe. On the small circuit at Taupo I was overheating the brakes at the hairpin...but that was all.

Growler.

brentweaver · Post by **brentweaver** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:49 am

Hi to everyone that replied to my post.
In essence it seems that this would be a waste of money for street use.
It's just that I live on Queen Charlotte Drive, between Picton & Havelock & have 18kms which ever way I turn the car of real mx5 type road, recently they have put speed restrictions of various stretches of the road for campervans etc. Thanks to each of you again that contributed to my questions. In summary I think I will work through the brake system so that it is all up to scratch.
Cheers, brentweaver.

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