Brake Pad ????
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Brake Pad ????
Hey guys its time for a new set of Pads & Rotors so just wondering what people recommend .... or what to stay away from
Ive got a 93 NA8C & i do the occasional track day but nothing serious, no engine mods or Turbro's so not looking to step up to the Wilwoods just yet.
Thanks
Ive got a 93 NA8C & i do the occasional track day but nothing serious, no engine mods or Turbro's so not looking to step up to the Wilwoods just yet.
Thanks
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Stock rotors with no cross drilling etc (these reduce rotor and pad life and aren't needed for a mostly daily driven car).
My brother has been happy with his TRW pads in his NA8C but he hasn't tried them on the track yet. When we were bedding them in it took around 12 goes of hard braking from 110 to 10 before I started feeling fade. Just a data point, no indication of how it will perform now that it's bedded and run in. They are a bit dusty.
Hawk HP+/HPS is popular with the guys in the States, Racer Products in Avondale are a distributor. DTC-60s from Hawk are a more track oriented pad I believe but are supposedly a bit noisier.
YMMV
My brother has been happy with his TRW pads in his NA8C but he hasn't tried them on the track yet. When we were bedding them in it took around 12 goes of hard braking from 110 to 10 before I started feeling fade. Just a data point, no indication of how it will perform now that it's bedded and run in. They are a bit dusty.
Hawk HP+/HPS is popular with the guys in the States, Racer Products in Avondale are a distributor. DTC-60s from Hawk are a more track oriented pad I believe but are supposedly a bit noisier.
YMMV
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I've been running TRW pads on my NA8 for the last 18 months.
I've been reasonably happy with them once they were bedded in properly. They've been reasonably quiet and not excessively dusty.
I used them at a track day at Pukekohe; they handled it pretty well. In my last session I had a bit of brake fade, but the pads handled it fine. They've stood up to spirited driving too without glazing or fading.
My handbrake performance has been kinda bad, not sure if this is due to the pads having less cold bite or just my stretchy cables and calipers in need of love.
I've been reasonably happy with them once they were bedded in properly. They've been reasonably quiet and not excessively dusty.
I used them at a track day at Pukekohe; they handled it pretty well. In my last session I had a bit of brake fade, but the pads handled it fine. They've stood up to spirited driving too without glazing or fading.
My handbrake performance has been kinda bad, not sure if this is due to the pads having less cold bite or just my stretchy cables and calipers in need of love.
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Absolutely. The rear caliper has an adjuster that sets the piston position for the handbrake and it must be wound back using an allen key in the adjuster on the back of the caliper. Once the new pads are in, it needs to be adjusted until the pads grab then backed off slightly.Skilfil wrote:Also handbrake performance in MX5's is notoriously bad, a lot of them need proper adjustment afaik. All 3 of mine have been laughable.
It took me a couple of goes(okay, several) to get the rear caliper adjusted properly... I had the rotors machined and I suspect until the pads have bedded in properly it's hard to get the rear caliper adjusted right.
Which reminds me... if your brakes haven't been well serviced, it's possible you'll have issues with the rear caliper. My first brake job was a Sunday afternoon disaster... the adjuster in one of my rear calipers was seized and the thread stripped so found myself hunting for a rebuilt caliper.
And, probably most important: Clean and lubricate! Slider pins and bores, the metal shims that the pads slide on etc. A high temp silicone lube is good, copper anti-seize will work too; apply judiciously, don't use too much or where it will contaminate the pads/discs. Make sure the calipers can move.
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the guys in the states swear by the stoptech street performance pads from rock auto. they are pretty much the best bang for buck street /track pad and they are cheap as. i have a set sitting on my bench ready to go in my car when i get my act together.
viewtopic.php?t=11130
pair them up with brand new generic rotors from partmaster etc, just phone around for pricing, it varies a lot.
You should also get a wilwood brake bias valve to put more brake onto the rear as the mx is too front biased. Bias valves can be bought from 949 racing or flyin miata.
once yoouve done that then look at a master cylinder brace and then braided lines for a firmer and more consistant pedal.Again from 949/flyin miata/goodwin racing..
the master cyl brace makes a BIG improvement in pedal feel as it stops the firewall flex when really pushing the pedal.
viewtopic.php?t=11130
pair them up with brand new generic rotors from partmaster etc, just phone around for pricing, it varies a lot.
You should also get a wilwood brake bias valve to put more brake onto the rear as the mx is too front biased. Bias valves can be bought from 949 racing or flyin miata.
once yoouve done that then look at a master cylinder brace and then braided lines for a firmer and more consistant pedal.Again from 949/flyin miata/goodwin racing..
the master cyl brace makes a BIG improvement in pedal feel as it stops the firewall flex when really pushing the pedal.
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