Front guard rub problem

Discussions relating to MX5 Tyre choice, Wheels, Brakes Suspension components and other items to keep you going around corners, stuck to the ground or stopping on a dime.

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siren676
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Front guard rub problem

Post by siren676 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:25 pm

Since i had my car lowered ive noticed the fronts rubbing on the guards while going through corners and hitting minor bumps.
Also noticed that when entering an uphill driveway with 1/2 to full lock the inside tyre catches on the lip and pulls it down.

Is there an easy way to sort out this issue or will i just have to flatten the front lips as flat as possible?
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Furai » Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:36 pm

Raise it. :lol:

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Post by siren676 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:40 pm

No im afraid i'd roll it with the stiff suspension :lol:
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Furai » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:03 pm

siren676 wrote:No im afraid i'd roll it with the stiff suspension :lol:
Weak, whats the fun with no chance of death? :lol:

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Post by siren676 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:09 pm

Driftings dangerous enough as it is, i dont want to have it rolling over mid way through a drift. At least without a roll bar anyway:lol:
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Furai » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:14 pm

siren676 wrote:Driftings dangerous enough as it is, i dont want to have it rolling over mid way through a drift. At least without a roll bar anyway:lol:
Pfft Ive been drifting all day no issues. :lol:

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Post by Angreal » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:17 pm

Well Furai hasn't managed to roll his car and I think if anyone has a chance to do so, he's the one :roll: Stiff suspension at skyscraper height combined with rapid directional changes :lol:

Roll the guards?

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Post by siren676 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:24 pm

^^:lol:

Rears are rolled, not sure why the guy didnt do the fronts at the same time :?

Is there an easy diy way or is it best to use a machine?
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Angreal » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:28 pm

There is an easy way - A mallet :lol:

I wouldn't know tbh regarding the machine and rolling

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Post by siren676 » Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:33 pm

:lol: Dont think i could trust myself with a mallet, would try to roll the lip and probably end up doing this.

Image
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Post by Kieran » Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:24 am

Have you riped out the fender lining??

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Post by Furai » Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:26 am

Kieran wrote:Have you riped out the fender lining??
I was hitting that lining at 312mm hub to fender on the front(Soft springs too though) so that would be a good idea.

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Post by Kieran » Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:42 am

1. Rip of fender lining
2. Use mallet to flatten inside of fender
3. Add more negative camber / Stretch smaller tyres

Whats size tyres are you running and whats the offset and width of your wheels?

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Post by siren676 » Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:47 am

Running -1.5° of camber on the front with 5° caster. Wheels are 15x8 +25 with 205/50's
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Kieran » Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:55 am

No worries then
Just rip out the fender lining and see how much that helps

If it still does it get some paint and spray the inside of the fender
take it for a drive get it to rub both sides then take a rubber mallet to the spots that the paint rubbed of

If you don't want to do that then your only other option is drop down to a more expensive 205/45 tyre or add another 0.5* of camber should do it

What camber are you running in the rear?

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Post by chris » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:17 pm

Yo, to roll the fenders, if you have an old vacuum pipe (The metal thing) Jack the car up, stick that under the fender :D
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Post by siren676 » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:01 pm

:lol: never heard of using a vacuum pipe to roll the guards

Kieran wrote:No worries then
Just rip out the fender lining and see how much that helps

If it still does it get some paint and spray the inside of the fender
take it for a drive get it to rub both sides then take a rubber mallet to the spots that the paint rubbed of

If you don't want to do that then your only other option is drop down to a more expensive 205/45 tyre or add another 0.5* of camber should do it

What camber are you running in the rear?
Cheers dude. Will give that a go. There isn't any wiring looms in the well that I should worry about?

I'm running as little camber as we could get at this ride height in the rear, -2°
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Kieran » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:12 pm

Thats fine there shouldn't be any wiring unless you have airbags haha
-2* is fine in the rear ideally if I could set my alignment perfectly it would be -2*F and -1*R 0 Toe and 5-7* Caster but that will require extended RUCAs
If it continues I can have a look sometime

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Post by Mr. Shine » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:28 pm

siren676 wrote:I'm running as little camber as we could get at this ride height in the rear, -2°
Crikey, I'm at -3.5° rear, lowest we could get :lol:

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Post by siren676 » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:35 pm

But what's your hub-arch measurement? Mines 300mm


@Kieran
Mines a 1990. Don't think airbags existed back then :lol:

Ideally I would have wanted less rear camber so I could get a cert but its impossible to get less at this height.

I'm wanting to move to a skinnier tyre but its hard to find a manufacturer which allows 195‘s on an 8" wide rim
1990 NA6C MX5

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Post by Kieran » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:41 pm

yeah thought yours was an early model haha
dont bother with a 195 its very frowned upon just get a 205/45/15 that 5mm difference in profile will make it stretch slightly giving you about 10mm more clearance

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Post by chris » Mon Oct 29, 2012 4:26 pm

I have 185 on 8 inch...
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siren676
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Post by siren676 » Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:03 pm

Yeah but yours wouldn't have passed a cert with that.

My mates tyre shop has found some falkens which allow a 195/45 on a 8
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Post by Bwarp » Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:20 pm

For certing on an 8inch rim you can run 195/45 R15 Falken ZE912's and if you arent using that tyre, you need to be on a 225/55R15 minimum. No other options.

Dont need cert? No worries (Y)
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Post by siren676 » Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:24 pm

Yeah kinda got coilovers so need cert. Want to get 1 or 2 things before going for it though
1990 NA6C MX5

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