Suspension and track times Disscusion

Discussions relating to MX5 Tyre choice, Wheels, Brakes Suspension components and other items to keep you going around corners, stuck to the ground or stopping on a dime.

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Kieran
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Post by Kieran » Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:50 am

Im just meaning mx5s handle completely different to a civic not in a bad way but just in a different way so why would you balance it like a civic when thats not what it drives like

Furai
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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 27, 2012 10:58 am

I couldn't find the spring rates for Cobras, No brand even came close to being hard enough so Im doing a custom setup with coilover springs.

Kieran I have to agree with you there a Civics handling couldn't be a more backwards idea to follow IMO. But oversteer is faster than under :wink:

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Post by 13r » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:00 am

Lol at the lack of understanding... I know what you meant Snappy

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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:10 am

13r wrote:Lol at the lack of understanding... I know what you meant Snappy
Could you please help me understand? My initial thought towards it would be the driving style, weight balance and attitude under braking and acceleration is different meaning a totally different setup and driving style.

I know I sound like a knob but I ask for the purposes of learning not to annoy anyone.

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Post by Kieran » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:14 am

I'm just saying cause you can throw a civic into a corner without any chance of anything but understeer

but if you take a FWD hondas race line through a track you will spin a mx5

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Post by 13r » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:14 am

Furai wrote:
13r wrote:Lol at the lack of understanding... I know what you meant Snappy
Could you please help me understand? My initial thought towards it would be the driving style, weight balance and attitude under braking and acceleration is different meaning a totally different setup and driving style.

I know I sound like a knob but I ask for the purposes of learning not to annoy anyone.
No, I think you've read too far into what he said.
His old civic handled like it was on rails and I believe that's what he's hoping this set up will provide (which it has).
No body roll, and grippy as fuck around corners.

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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:17 am

13r wrote:
Furai wrote:
13r wrote:Lol at the lack of understanding... I know what you meant Snappy
Could you please help me understand? My initial thought towards it would be the driving style, weight balance and attitude under braking and acceleration is different meaning a totally different setup and driving style.

I know I sound like a knob but I ask for the purposes of learning not to annoy anyone.
No, I think you've read too far into what he said.
His old civic handled like it was on rails and I believe that's what he's hoping this set up will provide (which it has).
No body roll, and grippy as fuck around corners.
Ahhh thanks, I always go a bit to into detail :roll: .

Its a good thing and a bad thing! :lol:

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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:20 am

13r wrote:
Furai wrote:
13r wrote:Lol at the lack of understanding... I know what you meant Snappy
Could you please help me understand? My initial thought towards it would be the driving style, weight balance and attitude under braking and acceleration is different meaning a totally different setup and driving style.

I know I sound like a knob but I ask for the purposes of learning not to annoy anyone.
No, I think you've read too far into what he said.
His old civic handled like it was on rails and I believe that's what he's hoping this set up will provide (which it has).
No body roll, and grippy as fuck around corners.
This

My EG actually oversteered slightly. I had a 28mm swaybar up front, nothing on the rear. The only thing factory on my suspension was my front LCA's. Car was amazing to drive.

My roadster has about the same amount on turn in from what it feels like, although with less power, I'm not sure how it will handle once turbo'd.

Gotta get the finances recovered, get a lip, and then look into getting my springs shortened to drop it about another half inch on front and rear, should only be 2 coils roughly. Then will come the wider wheels, sways and rubber and probably flares to accomodate the wheels. Then turbo and will go from there

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Post by Kieran » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:20 am

That explains it

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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:28 am

Did it oversteer only under braking and lift off?

Also shouldn't you go firmer if you go lower and cutting springs is illegal?

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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:37 am

Theres a difference between cutting springs bei and getting springs professionally shortened.

Obviously it only oversteered under braking and light off, that was how I liked to drive it though, and it wasnt bad, I think I only spun once or twice in my entire history of track driving, both were on my first time on full slicks, prefer semi's personally. If it was oversteering not on throttle or braking then I would say you are just taking a corner too fast

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Post by chris » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:38 am

Or just spend a little bit more and get coilovers..
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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:38 am

Furai wrote:Did it oversteer only under braking and lift off?

Also shouldn't you go firmer if you go lower and cutting springs is illegal?
Theyre already REALLY stiff. Equivalent of my old EG's buddyclubs on the hardest damper setting. The Mrs hates the car cos her tits bounce too much now

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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:40 am

chris wrote:Or just spend a little bit more and get coilovers..
Coilover setup that is comparable would be about $2200. Quite prepared to run aftermarket shocks, with aftermarket springs, that have been revalved t suit the height and stiffness I want.

No difference between that and coilovers other than the fact I can change the height whenever.

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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:50 am

Well an equivalent Bilstein setup would be easily a few thousand dollars plus cert.

In this document it states replacement springs are not heated or cut, it doesnt seem to matter who did it its not allowed unless certified Im guessing?
http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suple ... eshold.pdf

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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:54 am

Furai wrote:Well an equivalent Bilstein setup would be easily a few thousand dollars plus cert.

In this document it states replacement springs are not heated or cut, it doesnt seem to matter who did it its not allowed unless certified Im guessing?
http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suple ... eshold.pdf
Basically. Spring compression is always an option too but that would change the rates

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Post by Furai » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:03 pm

Snapfrozen wrote:
Furai wrote:Well an equivalent Bilstein setup would be easily a few thousand dollars plus cert.

In this document it states replacement springs are not heated or cut, it doesnt seem to matter who did it its not allowed unless certified Im guessing?
http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suple ... eshold.pdf
Basically. Spring compression is always an option too but that would change the rates
Yeah preload would probably make your setup bouncier or smoother depending on if the valving you have is more suited to stiffer springs which it sound like it is.

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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:04 pm

Furai wrote:Well an equivalent Bilstein setup would be easily a few thousand dollars plus cert.
But yes, this was my main reason. These will have great resale value, theyll be worth approx 1500 new as they are for the revalving, springs, shocks and circlip work done to them. So I'm not concerned about selling them and getting coilovers when I cert for my turbo build

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Post by Bwarp » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:04 pm

I wouldnt be worried about cut springs and Whether you can cert them or not, considering you're already running height adjustable shocks without a cert, whether the springs are cut is not an issue cos it's illegal anyway.
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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:06 pm

Bwarp wrote:I wouldnt be worried about cut springs and Whether you can cert them or not, considering you're already running height adjustable shocks without a cert, whether the springs are cut is not an issue cos it's illegal anyway.
Yep, although not at noticable as theyre circlip adjustable.

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Post by Donovan » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:29 pm

Snapfrozen wrote:
chris wrote:Or just spend a little bit more and get coilovers..
Coilover setup that is comparable would be about $2200. Quite prepared to run aftermarket shocks, with aftermarket springs, that have been revalved t suit the height and stiffness I want.

No difference between that and coilovers other than the fact I can change the height whenever.
When I was chatting to the Autolign guys at Albany about trying to find some hard to find Springs for my Tein Coilovers, they said an option would be to get Bilstein's with the circlips, and then apparently they do a tread kit or something that you remove the circlip and can put in platforms that turn them into a sort of coilover, think it was about $800-$900 or something?? Don't quote me on the price, cause my memory is shocking, but it was cheap.

Mad_Kiwi was also running HSD coilovers in his (before getting Keith's Koni's) which I think are about $1500, and a few of the reviews that I read about them said that they were not too bad. Dodson do these.

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Post by chris » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:31 pm

I got Oz (same as BC Golds) for like $1250.

By far the best money i have spent on the car.
1 X Primera
2 X Silvia
1 X BMW E30
1 X Audi A6
3 X Mazda MX5 (1989, 1990, 1991)

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Post by Snapfrozen » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:33 pm

Thing is, theres no point in me buying cheap coilovers. They are going to get fucking raped on the track. Bilsteins are rebuildable, they have the exact rates I want, and theyre brilliant quality (no point putting cheap sleeves on them, I can get the desired height without coilover sleeves).

My next option would be to look at the middle to top Fortune Auto coilovers with custom rates on them, but until I hit the limit with how I can perform driving on these, theres no point.

I was doing 1:11's at Puke and 1:20's at Taupo in a near stock engined car, run to your limit. THEN spend money to make yourself faster, this poor bitch has barely seen the track yet, let alone hitting the limit driving her

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Post by Donovan » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:48 pm

Snapfrozen wrote:Thing is, theres no point in me buying cheap coilovers. They are going to get fucking raped on the track. Bilsteins are rebuildable, they have the exact rates I want, and theyre brilliant quality (no point putting cheap sleeves on them, I can get the desired height without coilover sleeves).

My next option would be to look at the middle to top Fortune Auto coilovers with custom rates on them, but until I hit the limit with how I can perform driving on these, theres no point.

I was doing 1:11's at Puke and 1:20's at Taupo in a near stock engined car, run to your limit. THEN spend money to make yourself faster, this poor bitch has barely seen the track yet, let alone hitting the limit driving her
Er, I take it that you were running the full A1GP track for those times at Taupo? Puke time seems pretty quick, I thought the NZ GT class was running at 1:05's or something like that, but Keith Jones would know more about that than me, I haven't run around Puke in a long time.

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Post by Angreal » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:50 pm

Snapfrozen wrote:My next option would be to look at the middle to top Fortune Auto coilovers with custom rates on them, but until I hit the limit with how I can perform driving on these, theres no point.

I was doing 1:11's at Puke and 1:20's at Taupo in a near stock engined car, run to your limit. THEN spend money to make yourself faster, this poor bitch has barely seen the track yet, let alone hitting the limit driving her
I'd be very scared to try reach the limit in Donovan's car :wink:

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