Rushing to have an engine back in. And the old one out. And the bay painted...


Ok I'm not coming...

I'll be there soon Chris. I've got to replace the engine and clean the bay. Aiming for autumn at the latest

I can lend you factory shocks, however the springs were cut to get them out.

And yeh, never used a grinder before

So I decided to crack into it today, realised I'd forgotten hose clamps so used my eyecrometer to gauge the size and went down to Repco and grabbed some, thinking I was optimistic in size like usual but we shall see... Attacked the header with the grinder first, the factory tabs needed to go no matt...

I've seen dyno sheets with factory header/aftermarket header on supercharged and NA cars with almost no difference in power.

That's gotta be worth something.

Right so my engine is definitely poked. Which leaves me with a simple question. Google tells me there are 2 usual approaches. Unplug loom, remove peripherals, then... Option 1. Remove gearbox then the engine seperately Option 2. Pull them out together Who has used what method and why was it good or ...

I did have to reread it myself cos I wasn't sure if I was telling people what it was...

Ooooh an update... Well, the engine is baked, I've almost finished the monstrosity in the garage and went the other day to check some shit on the car and the battery was flat, decided I'd take it out and put it on slow charge while I'm working on the bitch. There's 2 reasons I'm glad I did this. 1. ...

Lets remove the roll protection full stop and all be headless horsemen!!!

YIPPEEE KAAIIIIYAYYY MOTHERFUCKAASSSSS




And something about the above angry shit..

I've got a free rear left mudflap in average condition to a good home. Silver in colour, some scratchng but could easily be fixed. CBF doing anything with it. Going in the bin at 5pm today unless someone claims it.

Pickup from Pakuranga. Would ship but CBF.

4A-GE wrote:Oh, well, fuck me - Today I learned my car has an LSD.

VLSD or Torsen? If its a VLSD, it may as well not

This is the best guide I've found...

http://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/

siren676 wrote:What condition is the paint?
For reference i got mine(heated window, cracked red paint) in August 2 years ago for $1300

Paid similar to this with spotless paint and cracked paint around rear window about 12 months ago

Etch primer is a kind of primer that tends to work well. Use newspaper or playing cards to mask the tyres, spend time masking or it will look like shit

1. Clean rims, VERY well. Paint is only as good as it's prep
2. Etch prime
3. Paint whole rim the inside colour
4. Mask middle of lip using paper tape and paint lip and inside/rear with lip colour
5. ???
6. Profit

The cap is in perfect condition and was tight, thought the same thing. There was ALOT of oil above the intake manifold and upon further inspection either there's a hole in the block or a frost plug missing... Will update tomorrow....

And I guess to answer your question... Somewhere inside the engine

At this stage, no idea... Spark plugs are clean, so are under the leads, appears to be from intake side of block/head...

Guess I can't prolong that engine swap anymore...

Keen to come and help, won't be doing anything to my car and should be done with the house. If its sunny I won't be there. Have to finish some outside painting

Righto. Now I'm torn. Engine's fucked so thinking I'll repaint the bay and subframe and front suspension at the same time. Happy to come help but won't be swapping on the day

I was planning on doing mine around then anyway Its bolt in bolt out so no big drama

I'll double check with the Mrs. Anyone got an engine crane?

I've replaced 2 seals in the car to attempt to stem the flow of oil from her in EVERY direction. Shall see results tomorrow evening. Then she's drivable until I at least have the engine ready

Phones about to go flat so will update at home. Had the exact same issue with a parking ticket crop up 2 years later. Ended up on fair go and got off it. Donated the $12 to charity. I'll post later