Clearly not the fastest here but yesterday at Hampton downs my best lap was a 1.27.38. NB 1.8 on road tyres (RE 002)

+1 for the 002s as well. Haven't done much track time with them but as a sports road tyre they are good- Loads of grip in the dry with gradual let-go and confident grip in the wet.

When you say it only happens in first, does that mean you've tried taking off in second and it doesn't happen? (if so that discounts things like a bent propshaft)

If its the type I'm thinking of with the plastic 'screw' in the middle of the plug, then that screw just pushes out tabs which lock the plug in place- You don't need to unscrew it right out (i.e. it will unscrew a bit but then won't come any more). When the plastic screw is out, the plug should be a...

there's probably a few liters worth in the neck

chris wrote:
But, I have had a shit tonne of practice with it yesterday, the welds are slowly looking better, so tonight I will be attacking the seat mount to get it as low as possible.

Just so's you know, modification of seating/rails etc will require certing.

Oh stink- Was just coming on to confirm. Another time perhaps.

May be keen for this one as I'm now a Dorklander!

built4speed wrote:The split turbo opens up the way for a non direct drive turbine shaft, gearbox on the turbine shaft, no lag huge top end

Why would that be of benefit though? You'd introduce transmission losses and complexity over a simple direct shaft from the turbine to compressor.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r276/Timmp_photos/P1000824Large.jpg These are my old headers- They are cracked around the number 3 join with the flange and have also been chopped just after the final 2-1 collector. They have already been welded once but someone with some welding skills might be ...

I also got it my 97 NA (i.e. with all the underbody bracing plus a roll bar)....but apparently it was my prop shaft which was slightly bent.
Best to find an MX5 at the wreckers- It may not fix the shimmy but it will tighten up the chassis and make your suspension work in a more ideal fashion.

S2000s have a rollbar (of sorts) behind the seat...so I can't imagine the seat itself would have strength to help in a rollover

I replaced my cracked expensive headers with standard ones...interestingly, I don't notice much difference in power but the standard ones are definitely noisier than my Maxim Works 4-2-1s were.

Track days, here I come

Well that's pretty impressive. Do we get to know how you did it? Was chasing Chris in his mx5, entered turn 2 at Pukekohe with too much speed while braking which caused the tail end to step out, corrected it but was still going 90-100k's or so in the wrong direction straight at a tyre wall. 2low2c ...

Any idea how long things take to ship/get here?

~$500 for headers is much better than over 2000 for a replacement set of Maxim works headers

Could actually be keen for some new headers- What sort of time frame are you talking about?

NicF wrote:Have you thought of going the G string way? Surprisingly weather resistant while driving.

Yeah but your bum and thighs get really cold.

Budget?

Angreal wrote: I'm guessing that the secret is that you don't and that you just mount all your custom gauges onto a face that fits in there?

Thats what it looks like to me

Look, I think there is genuine interest in how this works (or doesn't work) so it would be really good to chuck some pictures up, especially of this tricky pipe work (?....does it simply work as a restrictor due to small diameter?)

Good run guys- cheers! Definitely a quick one but no prangs so all good

Ill be meeting you guys at Kopu at 10:30 as i'm coming from Hamil-tron See you sunday!

OK cheers for the fast reply- I'll get in touch with them. Another question, since my existing headers are leaking at a crack between the flange and the pipe weld at the number 3 cylinder, will continuing to drive cause damage (apart from sounding a bit crap?) I really want to come for the winter wi...

Another question- I've just bought a replacement set of headers, this time they are Chinese stainless steel ones....on which the distance between the studs that connect the header to the midpipe are of different spacing (i.e. the new parts won't fit)- On the new parts they are between 85-90mm (slott...

New extractors.....which don't freaking fit! Can anyone tell me what the standard distance is between the 2 bolts that hold the headers and mid-pipe together?