Hi Guys... I haven't bought tyres in a long time and am no-longer up on current offerings. I need 195/55-15 or maybe 205/55-15. In the past I've had and liked Toyo T1, Bridgestone Re711, G-III and Adrenalin-Re001. I'd like to stay around or under $200 per tyre (inc fitting and balancing). What are t...
Not sure about a 2003 ? (NB) Earlier NA cars had subtle differences like... NZ/Aus 220km/h speedo red section of tacho starts at 6500rpm(1) orange reflectors on all four corners of bumpers no speed limiter... car will accelerate until power=drag 3 spoke MOMO steering wheel fitted to every car Japan ...
Simple, the bolt isn't cast on the end of the crank is it? Someone had to put it there originally. Ha ha ha.... So let me get this straight..... Mazda designs a crankshaft and bolt, and trains and supplies the workers (or robots?) on the assembly line, and some of them come loose after 80 or 100 or...
A frequent cause of that particular hose starting to leak coolant is if your CAS O-ring is leaking engine oil down the back of your head..... the oil breaks down the rubber fairly quickly... To check, just reach behind the head (engine cold, of course) and feel for a greasy mess under the CAS.... Th...
Hi, I'm looking to contact an old mate from the MX-5 club that I've lost contact with.... If anyone has a current phone number or email address for Clive Grainger, could they please let me know.... If you dont want to reply in a public forum you can email me at fletch@powerlink.co.nz or phone/txt 02...
I'd like to emphasis the importance of checking that belt's tension (or even existence).... because as well as the altenator it also powers your water-pump and if thats not being driven you'll have a dead engine in fairly short order... On the front of an MX-5s engine there will be one or two belts....
From what I've read at Miata.net forums.... the wishbones from all years are interchangeable.... so it doesnt matter what year they come from. One minor difference... the bracket-mount on the wishbone that bolts to the link to the sway-bar..... On NA (ie 90-97) models, its a U shape, and the bolt pa...
Welcome Euen.... The water in the boot is cause by a broken/leaky rain rail. The rain rail is a separate part attached to the bottom/rear of the soft-top inside the body of the car, and collects the rain off the roof and chanels it to the drains. While you could replace it separately from the roof.....
Fletch (forum member) has had this setup for a number of years on his '89 striped red. I'm still here, and I still have the Link ECU with FM software... Anything you'd like to know? :) I'm running no AFM, ported and compression bumped head, cams, adjustable cam-gears, ported throttle body, and head...
In the USA, '90-'94 Miatas had the "real" oil pressure gauge, and '95+ had the "idiot" gauge... I've seen nothing to suggest that the same change didnt happen at the same time for other markets (ie, NZ-new and Japanese imports). The water temperature gauge is deffinitely NOT an on-off type operation...
technically, it is illegal, and they can ticket you if they choose to. most people dont have a problem.... but if you happen to be young, or one of the other types of people who may receive "un-due" attention from the police, or happen to strike a grumpy officer on a bad day, you may not be so lucky...
Gazza, an AFPR adjust the fuel pressure, relitive to manifold boost pressure.... no boost, no raise in the pressure...= standard fuel delivery when turbo not spooled or low throttle positions.... The AFPR sits after the normal fuel pressure regulator, in the return line to the tank. Thus, no return ...
Considering all the words above.... they still dont actually spell out what "the test" is.... I recall it having something to do with five seconds.... ie, producing smoke for a short time is permissable.... but I'd like to know whether that 5 sec is correct, and also, under what conditions? They hav...
On the NA's .... Japanese imports have the sealed beam.... NZ new cars (same spec as Aussie market) have the H4 from the factory... The sealed beam are cheap... the whole lens/bulb for ~$10-$20 from repco/supercheap/K-mart... but the H4's make a much better light pattern.... If you can afford the up...
While I'm sure that both elongating the hole, or bending the brace, will indeed accomodate a slight miss-fit... I'd guess, as a first try, you could just jack up the car, and flex everything a bit... if the bolts need to be closer together, jack the diff so the wheels hang down... if they need to sp...
To change the timing on an NB, you need to drill/grind the sensor mounting bracket, to physically change its position.... So your mechanic is correct, its not a tuning adjustment like on the older cars...
Some in the USA have done this, but I'm not sure if the results are beneficial?