Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
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Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
Greetings all
Following the discussion on the MX5list closely, I decided tomorrow would be the best time to make the switch to fully synthetic oil after the praise and recommendations.
I'll be looking at SuperCheapAuto for a Fram Tough Oil Filter also
However Im not 100% sure on what grade of oil I should be getting. Being still relatively new to this all, I understand I should go for a thinner grade seeing as each morning I jump on the motorway after driving approx 500m.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated, Im looking to head out this morning (After some sleep of course) and purchase it & do the change before work around 10:30.
My current knowledge would lead me to get some Castrol 5w 40? Sound right?
*n00b alert*
Many thanks
Josiah
Following the discussion on the MX5list closely, I decided tomorrow would be the best time to make the switch to fully synthetic oil after the praise and recommendations.
I'll be looking at SuperCheapAuto for a Fram Tough Oil Filter also
However Im not 100% sure on what grade of oil I should be getting. Being still relatively new to this all, I understand I should go for a thinner grade seeing as each morning I jump on the motorway after driving approx 500m.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated, Im looking to head out this morning (After some sleep of course) and purchase it & do the change before work around 10:30.
My current knowledge would lead me to get some Castrol 5w 40? Sound right?
*n00b alert*
Many thanks
Josiah
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I'm currently using Penrite HPR5 from Supercheap, its 5W-40 semi-synthetic.
I've been very happy with it... It still pegs the pressure gauge when stone cold, but it takes 3500 rpm to do it instead of 2500 when I was using 15W-40 mineral oil. And the lifters tick tess on start-up.
I think you should be very happy with the Castrol 5W-40
Fletch.
I've been very happy with it... It still pegs the pressure gauge when stone cold, but it takes 3500 rpm to do it instead of 2500 when I was using 15W-40 mineral oil. And the lifters tick tess on start-up.
I think you should be very happy with the Castrol 5W-40
Fletch.
Red '90. Many n/a mods and Link ECU
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Yup, I have the bright orange FRAM and running Penzoil 5W-40 semi-synthetic.
I like the Fram, don't see any problems with it so far, clean oil good pressure, no bits of cardboard yet in the sump... It's ok in my books....
I like the Fram, don't see any problems with it so far, clean oil good pressure, no bits of cardboard yet in the sump... It's ok in my books....
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Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
From conservative and uneducated point of view I bought a genuine Mazda filter, from Mazda, for $12.60. What did the Fram equivalent cost - not that I am interested in saving money on essentials such as an oil filter.
Thanks
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Thanks
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David
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The Fram was actually more expensive than the OEM one @ $14 I believe...
The cost wasn't one of my issues... I just wanted a good well performing Oil filter, and after hearing the full on disscussions about them from the USA forum where there was a 50/50 splits where one group swears by them and another totally dismisses them, I gave them a try.
I had a good look inside the filter before buying it and it seemed quite well made, the fins had no movement, the rubber gasket was attached well and so it's been in my car for the last 6 months, the oil is still golden and Im happy
Believe me when I say I wouldn't skimp on a part like an oil filter, I made an educated decision about it before going ahead, my car is still in showroom condition, bar the bonnet which was replaced after a RAV4 mounted it backing up...
The cost wasn't one of my issues... I just wanted a good well performing Oil filter, and after hearing the full on disscussions about them from the USA forum where there was a 50/50 splits where one group swears by them and another totally dismisses them, I gave them a try.
I had a good look inside the filter before buying it and it seemed quite well made, the fins had no movement, the rubber gasket was attached well and so it's been in my car for the last 6 months, the oil is still golden and Im happy
Believe me when I say I wouldn't skimp on a part like an oil filter, I made an educated decision about it before going ahead, my car is still in showroom condition, bar the bonnet which was replaced after a RAV4 mounted it backing up...
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Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
I'm not convinced that the Fram filters in the US are the same as the
ones in NZ. I know that some fram filters were/are made in NZ, as
people I knew worked in a Fram factory in Howick.
I cut in half a Fram filter (bigger - orange) and a Mazda OEM filter
(smaller - black) a few years ago (...so things may be different now),
and the Mazda one definitely looked more robust, and better made
internally. I personally think the round (vs flat) gasket is a better
design too. The Fram one had less filter elements, and wasn't that well
put together. Never took a photo though which was a bit silly. (Anyway,
the Mazda ones match my MX5 better...)
A bulk buy of Mazda filters from the US has been talked about for years,
but no one has done it. I'd take a few at the right price, and I'm sure
others would too. A box of 100 must work out cheaper.
I use Mobil 1 (5W-50) - mainly as I like to feel I'm supporting Team
McLaren in some small way. Generally at 5000kms, but it is not a
daily driver, and less so at the moment.
I'd recommend changing the sump plug compression washer too - only a few
cents, but minimises the possibility of an annoying oil drip.
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(z)
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ones in NZ. I know that some fram filters were/are made in NZ, as
people I knew worked in a Fram factory in Howick.
I cut in half a Fram filter (bigger - orange) and a Mazda OEM filter
(smaller - black) a few years ago (...so things may be different now),
and the Mazda one definitely looked more robust, and better made
internally. I personally think the round (vs flat) gasket is a better
design too. The Fram one had less filter elements, and wasn't that well
put together. Never took a photo though which was a bit silly. (Anyway,
the Mazda ones match my MX5 better...)
A bulk buy of Mazda filters from the US has been talked about for years,
but no one has done it. I'd take a few at the right price, and I'm sure
others would too. A box of 100 must work out cheaper.
I use Mobil 1 (5W-50) - mainly as I like to feel I'm supporting Team
McLaren in some small way. Generally at 5000kms, but it is not a
daily driver, and less so at the moment.
I'd recommend changing the sump plug compression washer too - only a few
cents, but minimises the possibility of an annoying oil drip.
------------------
(z)
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Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
The Repco 20% is nation wide, but only for in store stock. Bought a new
$550.00 stereo today for $440.00. 20% discount sure helped!
Grant.
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$550.00 stereo today for $440.00. 20% discount sure helped!
Grant.
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Red 2006 NC Tiptronic
FIX A PC
FIX A PC
Cheers for the opinions guys,
Ive gone this time for the Castrol Magnatec 5w40 (Being slightly more budget-minded than I would have liked), mainly because Im wanting to get my credit-cards down. I ended up spending $200 on a new clutch about a month back which took them up, and Ive got transmission fluid sitting beside the clutch which I'll replace when I do the change.
The Oil Pressure seems to drop down to a decent level a lot faster with the new stuff running through it. Next time will definately go fully synthetic though!
New stereo... MMMmmm..... Sounds good, but Ive been eying up some of the ones on TradeMe which you can plug an external HDD into!
Ive gone this time for the Castrol Magnatec 5w40 (Being slightly more budget-minded than I would have liked), mainly because Im wanting to get my credit-cards down. I ended up spending $200 on a new clutch about a month back which took them up, and Ive got transmission fluid sitting beside the clutch which I'll replace when I do the change.
The Oil Pressure seems to drop down to a decent level a lot faster with the new stuff running through it. Next time will definately go fully synthetic though!
New stereo... MMMmmm..... Sounds good, but Ive been eying up some of the ones on TradeMe which you can plug an external HDD into!
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Don't get me wrong - I love my MX5. But all the talk about oil and filters tends to amuse me. There is nothing special about the standard MX engine. It is similar to a wide range of Japanese and other small fours. As such it very reliable and tough. On that basis I question whether it matters greatly what oil filter is used - provided it comes from a reputable manufacturer. So too with oil. the factory recomendation is for 10w-30. this is a 'thin' oil. I use Valvoline 10w-30 in my 1.6 MX which has 124000kms. Now most MXs have high kms so a case could in fact be made for usine a thicker oil to compensate for the wear. Synthetic oils are great but I suggest their main advantage is seen in brand new engines. of more importance in my view is changing the oil regularly - like 3-6 months regardless of kms. Oil doesn't wear out it just gets dirty. Whatever! this is a debate that will never be settled - many a pint of ale has been consumed arguing it! Cheers.
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Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
Gerald Said
The biggest advantage of synthetic (IMHO) is also it’s anti-coking, which is great for turbo’s, when you stop the engine and the turbo is still red hot some oils will instantly turn into a layer of black goo, over time this builds up then one day…pop and then $$$$$$$$$$$........thus people have the turbo timer, but modern oils have reduced the need for these.
It’s interesting point that oil does not wear out, many companies and cities have oil recycling, (hence the term virgin oil = not recycled, but no real advantage either) they just filter the crap out of the oil, separate all the unwanted additives from before and then re-blend to the viscosity as required, re-add the detergents and you have perfectly good oil. Good for the environment too. By the way, someone on TradeMe was selling Mobil Oil and said good for cars or bikes, not true, they are different blends. Many bikes have the gearbox and clutch assembly in the same oil as the engine so they have to have different properties. Also for example marine 2-stroke is different to bike 2 stroke, as bikes often run hotter, so they need greater anti-coking abilities. There is a lot on the internet about this.
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Synthetic oils are great but I suggest their main advantage is seen in brand new engines. of more importance in my view is changing the oil regularly - like 3-6 months regardless of kms. Oil >doesn't wear out it just gets dirty.”
The biggest advantage of synthetic (IMHO) is also it’s anti-coking, which is great for turbo’s, when you stop the engine and the turbo is still red hot some oils will instantly turn into a layer of black goo, over time this builds up then one day…pop and then $$$$$$$$$$$........thus people have the turbo timer, but modern oils have reduced the need for these.
It’s interesting point that oil does not wear out, many companies and cities have oil recycling, (hence the term virgin oil = not recycled, but no real advantage either) they just filter the crap out of the oil, separate all the unwanted additives from before and then re-blend to the viscosity as required, re-add the detergents and you have perfectly good oil. Good for the environment too. By the way, someone on TradeMe was selling Mobil Oil and said good for cars or bikes, not true, they are different blends. Many bikes have the gearbox and clutch assembly in the same oil as the engine so they have to have different properties. Also for example marine 2-stroke is different to bike 2 stroke, as bikes often run hotter, so they need greater anti-coking abilities. There is a lot on the internet about this.
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Best fully synthetic oil - Changing today
speaking of the internet, I thought this was interesting ( as another MX5-with-small-turbine-attached driver
http://www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/turbine1.htm
... maybe it's worth switching back to Amsoil (from Mobil1) - only stopped 'cos it was a pain to get hold of.
altho as Gerald said, if it was a stock engine I'd just be putting any old oil in there, but on a regular basis. By all accounts it's the additive package that wears out.
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http://www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/turbine1.htm
... maybe it's worth switching back to Amsoil (from Mobil1) - only stopped 'cos it was a pain to get hold of.
altho as Gerald said, if it was a stock engine I'd just be putting any old oil in there, but on a regular basis. By all accounts it's the additive package that wears out.
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