What'd you do to your car this week/weekend?
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Here some better shots of the new gear-lever boot and surround as mentioned above,Fitted the short shift kit as well today,Had a new boot on it already,Mine was split,What a excuse,Feels good,In conjunction with the light flywheel and tweaked ECU ,feels very ...perky .
I don't know the brand of shift kit,Came in a gearbox already fitted from Japan,Looked to be very nicely made ,Good and solid,Steel bushes with Brass lower ball cup.
Before and after photos,You can also see the remounted stereo with factory pocket that i did some time ago.
Now just waiting for my new rear boot lip Carbon spoiler to arrive.
I don't know the brand of shift kit,Came in a gearbox already fitted from Japan,Looked to be very nicely made ,Good and solid,Steel bushes with Brass lower ball cup.
Before and after photos,You can also see the remounted stereo with factory pocket that i did some time ago.
Now just waiting for my new rear boot lip Carbon spoiler to arrive.
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Phew. The evidence of me hitting every cone has been deleted right?Furai wrote:Wobbled my way around the track, Mint fun though.
Unfortunately my video of Siren and Angreal is corrupted, So is half of the other videos. Removed my SD to early and it stuffed them.
http://youtu.be/yup3Xt4uuDY
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- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
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Unforgivably, well not deleted just unreadable.Angreal wrote:Phew. The evidence of me hitting every cone has been deleted right?Furai wrote:Wobbled my way around the track, Mint fun though.
Unfortunately my video of Siren and Angreal is corrupted, So is half of the other videos. Removed my SD to early and it stuffed them.
http://youtu.be/yup3Xt4uuDY
Get any vids on the day? Only a few pics and 4 of my vids survived....
As i said,With the TODA Flywheel ,and tickled ECU allowing it to rev harder,The short shift feels good,Keeps it in the power band nice without hardly any drop in rev's between gears,You do have to be precise with your gearchange,and i did top up the oil in the housing while i was there as well.
I can't say what the one's on Trade Me are like,They don't look anything like the one i fitted,I got lucky with this one already in the gearbox that came in from Japan on the back of a motor that had a bit of gear on it.
Could be a KG works for all i know .
Just buy the best you can afford and do some homework on them,You have got to wonder when you can get one from Trade Me for $100.00 and Japan made ones are like 300-400.
Think i might have another in another box sitting at work,Keep a eye on classifieds over the next week or so,I might get it out and put it up.
I can't say what the one's on Trade Me are like,They don't look anything like the one i fitted,I got lucky with this one already in the gearbox that came in from Japan on the back of a motor that had a bit of gear on it.
Could be a KG works for all i know .
Just buy the best you can afford and do some homework on them,You have got to wonder when you can get one from Trade Me for $100.00 and Japan made ones are like 300-400.
Think i might have another in another box sitting at work,Keep a eye on classifieds over the next week or so,I might get it out and put it up.
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- See my 5 and raise you.
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- Location: West Harbour Auckland
Picked up a 98 soft top with glass window to replace the tatty roof on my car, took the old one off and found a broken cable on one side, and some pretty crappy rust.
Would anyone have any old soft top parts lying around? I got a good condition skin, but none of the mechanicals.
Took pics with phone, but no idea how to get them off it onto computer.
Would anyone have any old soft top parts lying around? I got a good condition skin, but none of the mechanicals.
Took pics with phone, but no idea how to get them off it onto computer.
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- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
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Ive got the old roof and frame off mine, What part of nz are you in?r3spct wrote:Picked up a 98 soft top with glass window to replace the tatty roof on my car, took the old one off and found a broken cable on one side, and some pretty crappy rust.
Would anyone have any old soft top parts lying around? I got a good condition skin, but none of the mechanicals.
Took pics with phone, but no idea how to get them off it onto computer.
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- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
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- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:13 pm
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That boot lip spoiler has grown on me. Where do I get myself one?brownie wrote:Now just waiting for my new rear boot lip Carbon spoiler to arrive.
I only have a couple of photos of your car at the end of the day. PM your email address and I'll send them your way.Furai wrote: Unforgivably, well not deleted just unreadable.
Get any vids on the day? Only a few pics and 4 of my vids survived....
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- See my 5 and raise you.
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Auckland mate, there is a U shaped piece at the bottom rear of screen that is almost totally rusted out, but any bits you have that are usuable would be good.siren676 wrote:Ive got the old roof and frame off mine, What part of nz are you in?r3spct wrote:Picked up a 98 soft top with glass window to replace the tatty roof on my car, took the old one off and found a broken cable on one side, and some pretty crappy rust.
Would anyone have any old soft top parts lying around? I got a good condition skin, but none of the mechanicals.
Took pics with phone, but no idea how to get them off it onto computer.
Boot spoiler...
www.carbonmiata.com
Taking a bit of a punt on this one,Got to wait for them to build it and then send it.
Seems to visit MX5NUTZ and is on Clubroadster ,Got some good bits.
Wait until i get my spoiler and i will let you guys know about service.
Builds and sends direct from China.
www.carbonmiata.com
Taking a bit of a punt on this one,Got to wait for them to build it and then send it.
Seems to visit MX5NUTZ and is on Clubroadster ,Got some good bits.
Wait until i get my spoiler and i will let you guys know about service.
Builds and sends direct from China.
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- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
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- Location: Auckland
Yeah no probs, pm me if you want to organise a meet up although i am from Drury so it may be a little driver3spct wrote:The roof mech is rugged too, and one of the cables is broken. I might be able to source new cables, maybe a new rain track too.
Be keen to have a look at your spares if thats ok at some stage?
Yah man. Will be testing them out this weekend sometime hopefully, when I make it out to the lockup.
Anyone got any idea how hard it is to drop rear subframe out of the car so I can wire wheel everything and paint it with undersealer? Also wAnna have a jam at replacing a few bushings to bring everything together. Big job?
Anyone got any idea how hard it is to drop rear subframe out of the car so I can wire wheel everything and paint it with undersealer? Also wAnna have a jam at replacing a few bushings to bring everything together. Big job?
Toolbox wrote:YOU ARE ONE VERY SICK PUPPY that likes to hide behind a computer. GOODBYE
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Dropping the sub-frame is reasonably straight forward but there is quite a bit involved in doing it. You can drop the diff first if you want to, but the method below leaves the diff in place.
If you are looking at doing hub bearings as well, loosen the hub nuts while the car is still on the ground.
I recommend the use of a trolley jack which will need to be kept under the diff to support the assembly while it is disconnected.
The car will need to be on stands, high enough that you will be able to slide the subframe out from underneath once it is off.
You need to disconnect the PPF and drive shaft to start off, along with the exhaust. Leave the drive shaft plugged into the gearbox or you will end up with oil all over the floor.
You can either disconnect the shocks at the top (in the boot) or at the bottom.
The brake line into the splitter box on the subfame needs disconnection along with the hand-brake cables.
The subframe itself is held in place by 2 nuts and a bolt on each side. You will probably need a longish extension to get the socket onto them.
Once they are undone, the subframe should just lower down on the jack and slide out.
Rather than hitting it with a wire wheel, I got mine sandblasted and repainted once it was stripped down.
If you are looking at doing hub bearings as well, loosen the hub nuts while the car is still on the ground.
I recommend the use of a trolley jack which will need to be kept under the diff to support the assembly while it is disconnected.
The car will need to be on stands, high enough that you will be able to slide the subframe out from underneath once it is off.
You need to disconnect the PPF and drive shaft to start off, along with the exhaust. Leave the drive shaft plugged into the gearbox or you will end up with oil all over the floor.
You can either disconnect the shocks at the top (in the boot) or at the bottom.
The brake line into the splitter box on the subfame needs disconnection along with the hand-brake cables.
The subframe itself is held in place by 2 nuts and a bolt on each side. You will probably need a longish extension to get the socket onto them.
Once they are undone, the subframe should just lower down on the jack and slide out.
Rather than hitting it with a wire wheel, I got mine sandblasted and repainted once it was stripped down.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.
Choice, that's real good info. yeah was thinking about getting subframe coated professionally, was just wanting to wire wheel the underside of the body as there's little dots of surface rust appearing so wanna kill it off before it gets any worse.
Toolbox wrote:YOU ARE ONE VERY SICK PUPPY that likes to hide behind a computer. GOODBYE
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